carnuck

I have some '85 Datsun King Cab rear corner windows (opening with latches) I was going to put in my extended cab project I won't be able to do.

Load up everything you have kicking around in the back that's heavy and leave it in for a week. It'll come down. Do you have 4x4 front springs?

When you take the flywheel off there is a locater hole on the crank from what I remember. It leaves a "shadow" which I used to line mine up. The head even interchanged when I went from a '95 YJ to an '84 Cherokee (carbed). All I did was swap the manifold. I think the coolant sensor may have been an issue (no hole on the new motor on the head) but the one on the thermostat housing worked.

Ditto, but I'm subbing so maybe next year

If you still have rear drums, manually adjusting them usually takes the mushy feel out after the brakes are worn in a bit.

Fuel filter clogged up? Fuel in tank actually diesel, jello or solvent?

4 cyl autos are 23 spline (short on early 3 speed and long on '96 up 4 speed)

I needed a daily driver I could afford to feed gas while I fixed my FSJ and haul stuff with.

Someone swiped both of mine while I was working on something else. They got my Renix TBI as well as the new base gasket. All my stuff will soon be gone and they can scrub salt!

'80 to '83 Wagoneer/Cherokee 4 dr or narrowtrac 2 dr. WT 2dr are 5" wider in front and 3 in the rear. Same with Jtrucks, but they are 9" wider in the rear. '84 to '91 Grand Wagoneer (look for a vacuum port on the front diff cover for what you DON'T want or you can mod it to perma-engage pretty easy) All IH are RH drop AFAIK (I've only had 7 of various years from '59 to '80) The FSJs have 2 possible ratios: 2.72 or 3.31 unless you find an early tow package rig with 3.54s.

I bought my first Comanche from a Chev dealer. They made sure that my '86 (Molly) came to just under $1000 with tax so I couldn't scream lemon law. I laughed because they wanted $2500 before that, but the clutch didn't work (out of fluid) and the hose to the map sensor was cracked (black smoke/horrible economy) and the seat was black as tar (originally red) My son took a day to scrub it clean with upholstery cleaner.

MAP sensor has to be hooked up too. Sounds like a bad vacuum ball, which is allowing vacuum in near the MAP sensor, which is leaning out the mix. Assuming fuel filter is clean?

I found mine again. I thought it went with a bunch of others I tossed

I used the stock length shocks and moved the mounts up

The solenoids on the valvebody have known issues with the wiring as well as burning out. Make sure the ground wire on the engine block isn't corroded/loose.

It's easier to swap the trans for a 4x4 one. The internals can have 3 different countershaft ratios. The trans was used in Cherokees, Comanches, and Wranglers with 4 cyl or 2.8 V6.

PS: Renix VS HO They use the same cam, but it's timed differently. They retarded the cam to reduce the amount of air/fuel charge in the cylinders so they could eliminate the EGR valve. It also resulted in higher horsepower output at a higher RPM because of the change of torque curve. That is why the Renix got the 0.70 O/D and HO got the 0.75 because it didn't have quite as much oomph off the line until the RPMs picked up. They also went with a larger throttlebody and bigger injectors, which is why a Renix will run like a scalded cat with HO injectors, but won't pass as many gas stations! The HO head is good for only 25 HP boost in and of itself.

MAP sensor hose is VERY important! They get clogged up from backwash in the throttle body too. Cleaning it with TBI cleaner (the hose) and the CCV tube as well as the throttle body and making sure the intake bolts are tight is important too. The vacuum ball behind the bumper cracks after minor accidents and the vacuum leak messes with the fuel economy. I got 17 mpg with a canopy, 6 tires, towbar, tool box, shop jack and 2 adults while driving nearly to CA border from Seattle and towing an AMC Eagle SX4 back I got 14. That was with 4.0L/AW4/NP242 and 235/75/15 tires and 3.73 gears lifted 5 1/2" (SOA rear). Before we left I cleaned the throttlebody, ran a bottle of Amsoil PI (performance Improver) part way through 2 days before the trip. Now with 33/9.50/15s, it should have 4.10 gears. I dropped to 15 mpg and 200 miles a tank. I'll check it again monday/tuesday because I have to deliver an IH 304/auto trans and freeway cruise (2 adults, big dog and toolbox with canopy) I discovered the MAP hose was part way out of the throttle body (heard hissing yesterday and plugged it back in) With a metric tonne of gravel (2280 lbs) Without

ditto!

My room-mate recently swapped the 1.5L TD in her rabbit for a crate 1.9 TD. Except the exhaust pipe, it was a direct swap but has more power.

It'll depend whether carbed, TBI or MPFI as to which flywheel. Starter changed too.

Vacuum leak? Especially the hose to the MAP sensor leaking or clogged causes trouble.

Battery loose and hitting fender/hood? Short in brake lights? Missing ground strap from body to battery? (one to the motor doesn't count)

AMC V8 will also bolt up to the bell, but you'd have to make your own mounts and get a bigger rad.

Napa's number was ICR12 I recall