Ibby

I noticed when I took the metric ton springs out of the '90 Comanche and rebuilt the packs using the 91 short box pack that the size of the regular leafs were different. The metric ton springs were a bit thicker than the regular springs. I would up swapping just the overloads and the preloaders onto the 91 spring packs. They're better than before, but not as good as the original metric ton ones were (when I took the metric ton springs apart, 7 of them were cracked). Thanks for the advice here folks, from what I've read up on here I think new metric ton springs with a set of sensa track load leveling shocks should fix things up proper.

Took me a bit but I figured out how to host the pics. here they are: The springs with the camper on. It's not heavily loaded in this pic. A pretty typical load when I take road trips in the summer.

How the heck do I post a pic from my computer onto here?

I thought I read somewhere that the Hell's Creek MT springs were not made by them, they were made some place else?

Good advice, I do tend to overload my truck at times. New spring packs are a good idea, I hope General Spring have some in stock still. I'll take pics of the setup this weekend, she needs a new muffler installed anyway. I'm looking at a lighter camper as well, the import one I have now is a little on the heavy side for its size.

I have a short box 91 that I often carry an import camper with. I've made bastardized spring packs from a set of metric ton springs and te stock spring packs with a new add a leaf thrown in, and I've swapped in a freshened up Comanche D44. I also did the 95 brake upgrade so all that part is good. I usually load the camper full of too much crap and wind up with a saggy sad looking rear end. I'm considering installing either some sort of airbag system or a Timbren system http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3108 I've done some searching here but I don't see many posts about adding this stuff into a Comanche. Anyone have any input or ideas for managing heavier loads?

Apologies on the bad terminology. I realize the prop/combi device is just a distribution block. I just went with what everyone seems to call it. I read all the articles here on the brake work I did and I am quite happy with the results. The increase in braking power is quite noticeable. The "spongy" feeling at the start of pressing the brake pedal had me concerned. She stops like a champ though.

Yep, kept the stock prop/combination valve. The adjustable one sits between the stock one and the new single rear line I ran, keeps the rear brakes from locking up. The correct port has been plugged. The booster and all the other parts I installed are brand new. Firewall's in good shape and all bolts have been tightened (and rechecked) to the specified torque in the Haynes manual. The bleeder valves don't leak. I've left the truck in the garage overnight and not a drop has shown up on the floor. I looked at all the fittings and they're bone dry. After I did the re-bleed last night things are seeming a lot better even though I didn't see any air bubbles at all. I can feel the difference in braking power is way better than the stock system. I think it's fine now. I'm just a bit concerned as I'll have a camper on the truck and I'll be towing a fairly heavy load as well, which is what made me put the better braking system in the first place.

With the exception of the front brake lines, everything is new. The prop valve I used is identical to this: http://www.coloradomustang.com/ShowItem/100714%20Mustang%20Disc%20Brake%20Proportioning%20Valve%2064%20-%2073.aspx but I didn't think to put a check valve in when I installed it. I wound up making a pump brake bleeder this evening and re-bled the truck (yes, in the right order). Although the cap on the 95 booster leaked a bit of fluid I didn't see any bubbles at any of the wheels when I re-bled things. After the bleed the brakes are a bit more firm. Does the pressur holding vavle for the rear brakes make a big difference?

I recently did a bunch of brake work on my 91 MJ. I swapped in an MJ D44 with the larger drum brakes, removed the bed biasing device and ran a single line to the rear through an adjustable prop valve, and I just installed a 95 booster and master cylinder. When I went to bleed the front calipers I broke a bleed screw so I replaced the calipers and rotors. I bled the system quite well and there is a huge difference in braking, but when I first push in the pedal it does feel a bit spongy. Is this normal?

Yup the spring shop knew what size ubolts to make up. I forgot to mention it's a D44 out of another Comanche I'm using for parts. Looks like it'll be a straight up swap. Thanks for the tips!

I have a leaky drum brake on a D35 in my 91 Comanche, and I also have a D44 with recently redone brakes just sitting in the shed. I'd like to swap in the D44 this weekend but I want to make sure I have all the necessary parts. I'll be picking up new u bolts and brake fluid today, is there anything else I'll be needing? I'm pretty horrible for forgetting small parts during jobs like this, and the closest parts store is a couple miles away. Sucks to walk to. I am aware of the 1 inch difference between the axles. I can shorten the driveshaft myself if it's required, but I've measured it out and it looks like I shouldn't need to.

D'oh, just figured it out in my head. I should have been using the ground pin for well, ground, not the potentiometer pin. Kind of a horrible mistake for an electronics tech. I'll blame it on a garage full of fuel fumes. Thanks for the head's up hornbrod. You fixed my brain fart.

I took apart my Renix fuel system from the other truck to test the fuel pump/sender from that truck, and it does the exact same thing but in reverse (which I kind of expected as it's Renix). I don't understand why the pumps won't pump unless the potentiometer is at max. Am I bench testing these things incorrectly?

I've recently had trouble with my MJ (1991 4.0 5 spd) where it will stutter, come close to stalling and backfire a bit through the intake. I've experienced this before as I've owned several other Jeeps. I did the regular stuff, checked the ignition, dist, wires, checked the throttle, TPS, etc and all checked out fine. I checked pressure at the rail and found not quite 20 psi so I dropped the tank. I found the small rubber hose from the pump to the tube had come loose so I replaced it and tightened it down. I buttoned everything up and found the fuel pump would not run at all. I took it apart again and tested the pump at various points from the pump leads back. With 12 volts on the pump it runs like a champ. If I try to put 12 volts at the 3 pin electrical connector, nothing happens, unless the float arm is raised all the way up, and then the pump runs fine. When the arm is lowered, the pump starts to run slower, and after about a half inch of travel from the top the pump stops completely. I've never run across this before, and I'm not sure how to go about fixing it. Has anyone seen this happen before?