carnuck

normal as mine was (I hope see it in action again by the end of the weekend)

Adjusted the MAP sensor on Renix. Had a buddy with a 3 gas analyzer help me. That should read "Put an adjustable MAP sensor in so I could dial it back.

Jones?

That actually has a scientific explanation (I'm looking for the correct link) according to Snell's law. this is a simplified version for now. http://www.school-for-champions.com/sci ... _snell.htm You appear to be still thinking laws of reflection. Step up to the laser platform and make sure you have your eye protection in place! When light is slowed down, friction results, increasing heat released. In the vacuum between the 2 panes, heat won't release and the inert gas plus the reflective coating will bounce the rays back through the externally reflected rays, increasing their potential, similar to cracking atoms. So who's a flat (pane) earther now? ;)

2 and 3 look like my exhaust pipe bypass tube expanders (usually have a cone shaped punch to go inside)

Same thing on my 4 and 6 cyl rigs. External part is there, but the internals ended up in the old muffler. As long as it's injected and tuned, it passes fine. I've even dialed the fuel back a bit because they wasted up tp 20% of the gas by overfuelling to feed the cat. Wonder where the new cars "suddenly" got a boost in fuel economy? There you have it.

It has to be MJ and not XJ too, right? (I just got an external slave bell for my AX-15 but it's going to a Jtruck with a 290)

I need a pair of those so I can put the other pair of studded snows on my '82 Spirit (they are on XJ rims, so the offset makes them hit the tie rods)

$3.89 at Costco. $4.09 elsewhere

Just found out I need more $urgery. Insurance is tapped out. :(

Air is trapped and the stat hasn't opened yet. This is why I switched to a '91 up rad. It has a cap you can fill!

I do know what makes the lens work. If you checked out the video you would see the fire it started. What I see happening is when the sun hits a certain angle the reflection is doubled back from the inside pane, then it comes out through the outside pane on such an angle that it focalizes through the edge of the glass, creating a lens out of the glass at a larger angle of departure. Any expansion or contraction of the thermopane creates even more of a lens than the flat pane. The multilayer creates doubling or more of the refracted light like in the photo question. http://photo.net/beginner-photography-q ... rum/00VBzD The truly SMART window would have a UV proof plastic pane in the center to minimize thermal conductivity unlike the current glass we use. I only know about this stuff from dealing with Solar Tubes and designing a subterranean home that will get natural light and light through reflected lenses. Now If I could only put my minimalist knowledge to use to make the $$ I need to build it.

I was wondering if it was really long nuts

Which setup? Mine was a parts car, truck battery and 12VDC lights and appliances along with some plumbing (radiant heat from the radiator and an exhaust heat exchanger to warm the house)

You'll go right past my place on Hwy 2 then

1/2 the roof, the back wall and back floor up to about the seat.

I have 15" rims from a 2WD '66 Travelall that will bolt onto the back but not the front (center hole needs slight opening) and they are centered offset, so the wheels will be pushed out almost 2". These are good spacer/adapters (just wish they were the right bolt pattern. I could put 5 on 5.0" rims on 5 on 4 3/4" with them) Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Do you know what a Fresnell flat lens is? Wonder why it's not working? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1wRcfqMqsw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HiEA0vrmps

TPS could be going out or a patch of water in the fuel.

I'd swap the fuel pump relay with the one next to it before saying the pump is dead. That's how I got the last 3 of my MJs and a couple XJs.

My speedo goes to 180 KMPH. Got one for my Jtruck too, but I figured out it has to turn 4600 RPM to go 180 MPH with 38" tires, 4.10 gears and .7 AW4 O/D in high range. Don't think my stroker has quite enough power with only 300 HP at 3800 RPM

Could the linkage be messed up slightly and you are actually going part way into neutral? Oh! Maybe you have a NP228/229 and the viscous coupler is messed up? It'll work in 2 hi, and 4 lo but not 4 high.

The REAL correct solution is a NP208 AM with factory fixed yokes and wider chain than the NP231! (built to handle AMC V8s in Grand Wagoneers and Jtrucks) by itself Image Not Found

I'm more of a Luddite. Going with heavier, stronger older tech. The EFI is nice though.

That's definitely water and gear lube whipped up. Using synthetic oil tends to keep that from happening. I would put a BIG drain pan under there, spray it down with engine degreaser, temporarily fill with cheap motor oil or ATF and run it with the wheels off the ground, drain and refill several times before putting new gearlube in. (only if it's still quiet)