91coMANche

I just got an email that said I requested my password...but I did not request this...

I sent you a message on this. I have a working pedal assembly that is like new and came from a super clean automatic truck.

Good so I have no problem!

So now that I have my AC blowing ICY cold another small issue has shown its head. When I have the AC on high the volts will drop to 12 at idle...when I give it gas the belt squeels and slips but the volts rise to 14.4. Is my alternator dying? Belt is tight and a new gatorback.

Compressor comes on. It's low. What direction turns the low pressure valve open?

On my 91 with stock AC, if the compressor comes on when I turn on the AC that means it has level of refrigerant charge? The system wouldn't allow the compressor to come on if it was empty, right?

It won't fit from an XJ rear. Honestly, your 35 lasted a good while. Just get the parts to redo the gears. You could always break a shaft if you get on it hard with your bigger tires but that is also replaceable. Your 92 is a street vehicle that you keep clean so a Dana 35 is just fine for your usage. Go ahead and get a ring and pinion with install kit. Make sure you don't need spider or side gears too. If you do then just get a nice posi unit like a powerlock. You're looking at around $600 with parts to repair the axle but only a couple hundred to find another 35. You should repair it because you can't do the swap yourself. My 35 needed bearings so I just replaced it with a 44 but I knew how to get driveshafts redone and so forth. You should repair the 35 and be happy with the truck again.

How about just a universal tag mount from the parts store?

So my trucks got the standard R12 requirement. I can get R12 substitute much cheaper and easier. So any tips on charging her up? At the moment no cold air but I feel the compressor come on when driving.

Just use the block and heads with your electronics. Careful that the 2000 doesn't have a cracked head. The 2000 and 2001 (maybe even 2002) 4.0 had a head cracking issue that basically strikes all engines. Some crack early, some crack late after the body is gone. Some crack and only weep water into the bottom end slowly.

So I need bubble flare at valve but double flare at the line right?

Ok so my flare was wrong on that port...but the rest sealed up well... Also, I think I installed the lines wrong. So apparently the line coming out of the front of the MJ valve is supposed to feed the rear on the XJ valve? I just threaded the Xj valve where the MJ one was and left the front port off. Did I do something wrong?

So I installed a 1996 XJ proportioning valve right where the stock MJ one fit. I hooked up the lines exactly as they fit on the MJ valve and did not install the line that fits at the very front of the valve because that port is not on the XJ valve. The lower rear line that feeds the front drivers side caliper is leaking out of the valve. So I removed the line and bent a new 3/8" line (3/8" is the wrench size, but I think the like is 3/16"). The new line leaks at the valve too. What am I doing wrong? Is that line metric or something?

As noted, you do NOT need an XJ proportioning valve if you have the Jegs. Which port of the MJ distribution block did you plug? The one you need to plug is the large one toward the front on the BOTTOM of the metering block. The one you retain is the port in the "nose" of the metering block. I recently installed my XJ valve and the only line that didn't bolt up was the far front port line. I cut that line off at the old block. Was that not the bypass to the rear?

What does that MJ have for lift and tire size?