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mikekaz1

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Everything posted by mikekaz1

  1. mikekaz1
    no hands were too dirty. but instal was very straight forward. Flat stock welded directly to the inner floor/ flat part of the inner rocker I left it about 1/4" above the factory rocker pinch weld, pretty much pressed right against the lower seat belt bolts and then leveled across.. Then the rear frame cap. Then wleded the front frame cap onto the outter rocker. And tacked it in. Made sure everything looked good and burnt it in. I cut about flush with the lower door edge and straight acrossthe cab corner. Seam sealed everything, a little skim coat of bondo, and then some bedliner and all done.
  2. mikekaz1
    went over and saw Joe at http://spadanoenterprises.com/index.html and checked out some of his awesome military trucks and projects. While there I picked up a set of his bare ROCKersliders as my factory rockers were toast. Nothing but quality. Cuts and bends were perfect and I was able to adapt them with little issue. Got them welded up and painted and I think the final product turned out great!
  3. mikekaz1
    Does anyone have a diagram, pictures or just half a clue on how the 1/4" gas vent tubes get routed? Mine are all dry rotted, broken and hanging and id like to replace them.
  4. mikekaz1
    does NC require emissions still? why not just delete the cat.
  5. mikekaz1
    I have the older q9000 winch, I like it, no complaints.
  6. mikekaz1
    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Firestone&tireModel=Winterforce+UV&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=27SR6FWFUV&tab=Sizes I ran these on my old XJ, my current WJ and the LT version on my work van. I absoluetey love them. quiet and fantastic traction. I average 30-40k on a lifespan. and at only $85 a tire you can't beat the price!
  7. mikekaz1
    when I redid my floor I omitted that upper brace, 2 years strong with hauling multiple heavy loads and not one ounce of issue here. if you want to replace it though, the flanges are roughly 6" apart, id get a piece of 1/8" by 6" and weld it in flush.
  8. mikekaz1
    I dunno... :dunno: seems I'm the minority here. I prefer standard sealed beams. I love my silverstars and relay harness. being in the north east, ive experienced way too many snowstorms where they ice up to ever want to experience it with something that produces effectively zero heat.
  9. mikekaz1
    full dash is just an oil pressure switch that's it.
  10. mikekaz1
    I think that would be fine. simple, effective, easily matched to whatever front flare you want to run.
  11. mikekaz1
    I have a factory electric fan and a aftermarket 10" instead of the clutch fan. I run consistently cooler all year with the full electric setup. Only issue I still have is with the plow in the fully raised position, temps still creep up to ~240. Unless I keep it slightly lowered.
  12. mikekaz1
    I just went out and looked at mine... its dark out but it appears that that whole assembly/door is plastic welded together. With a dual pin style catch on the dash itself. Id say just try yanking on it. Worst case it breaks and its just a couple 10mm bolts to pull it off and get a junkyard replacement
  13. mikekaz1
    Hmm what did you have in mind? I was imagining a ~3" flat/tube fender set up or something.
  14. mikekaz1
    I like to feel like in driving a midsize dump truck
  15. mikekaz1
    theres still no "gap". theres just no body panel/flare behind the end caps and the wheel well gains clearance. I can take a photo when I get home if wanted.
  16. mikekaz1
    why wouldn't the bumper fit?
  17. mikekaz1
    I'm not sure what you mean. Picture maybe? like take a pipe/tube with a similar radial profile and quarter it to use as the connecting radius between the side and rear of bed.
  18. mikekaz1
    I know its added work but what about doing a pipe slice to form the corner radius? shouldn't be too hard to slice and angle the two together to form the lower body angle
  19. mikekaz1
    depending on the condition of your rear springs and how you want the look of the truck, but MJs had close to a 2" rake from the factory, so a 3" lift is only 1" over level. you could get away with just a shackle lift and not have to mess with the spring at all.
  20. mikekaz1
    I like what you did with the sides, but id have to call a pass on the rear cap. I gotta agree with 500mj, far too large of a space to harbor faults.
  21. mikekaz1
    yeah that's pretty easy to debunk, all shocks (atleast all decent ones) should come engraved with p/n origin ect...
  22. mikekaz1
    Very nice! not too many of us still running a wagoneer nose!
  23. mikekaz1
    Do yourself a favor and skip the factory linkage and get a bostwerks or similar stand alone linkage.
  24. mikekaz1
    Are you doing custom flares? Or open for plastics?
  25. mikekaz1
    I used the same thing don used. I think mine were #12 and for reassurance I coated them with some RTV also
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