mikekaz1

9 horsepower. Ooooo. Fancy! What is it just programming updates?

whats the difference between the 87 and 90 ECU?

I prefer Sylvania Xtra Visions (I think that's what they're called). same light output as the SilverStars, but longer bulb life and cheaper cost. yeah I think the main difference is the silver stars are a "crisp white" color vs "bright white" or some nonsense like that. The difference is that the SilverStars have a blue tint to the glass to simulate the color of HID headlights. The problem is, any tint you put in the glass has to reduce (to at least a small degree) the amount of light that's transmitted through the lens. The XtraVisions are clear glass. But ... the key factor for me was the bulb life. The SilverStars have a rated life of 150 hours for the low beam and 50 hours for the high beam. The XtraVisions are rated for 850 hours low beam and 200 hours high beam. The wattage is the same: 65 watts high beam, 55 watts low beam. (The factory sealed beams were rated at 65 watts high beam but only 35 watts low beam.) Considering that the XtraVisions put out the same light as the Silverstars (or more!), cost less, and last orders of magnitude longer ... it was an easy decision to make IMHO. i can agree with that. i run the xtra visions on my waggy nose, as they don't even make a sliverstar option. and i do love them. rarely if ever have to use highbeams. and i live in the mountains.

ive herd decent things about the 15 LED amazon ones. never tried them though, LED isn't my cup of tea

I run bilsteins. does it ride like a caddy? no. but I don't think its bad by any means. and between them and my HD ZJ springs, they handle my plow weight perfectly.

only on when you want it on.

I prefer Sylvania Xtra Visions (I think that's what they're called). same light output as the SilverStars, but longer bulb life and cheaper cost. yeah I think the main difference is the silver stars are a "crisp white" color vs "bright white" or some nonsense like that.

I also have a non AC truck. If I ever do the swap I'll probably just do an on/off switch.

Not sure how much 96 changed its HVAC electronics along with its switch to OBD2. but otherwise it should be a part for part plug and play install. Swap controls and harness, box and cores, compressor and dryers all as a unit. Personally I would buy the cores brand new. But that's just me. If the electronics don't match up or you just feel like doing it alternatively. You could always just hook the compressor up to an ignition on/off switch. The side benefit of this is you can then use AC on all blend settings not just the two designated AC.

Sylvania silver stars. $20 a piece. And a $10 headlight relay harness.

Ah. You are correct. I forgot to double the equation to compensate for the mirroring effect. (1/2tube+mount)2+Springpack. Albeit it is still a known variable lift. And can be near perfectly equated regardless of weight capacity changes.

SOA lift is measured above axle/hub centerline. similar to how going from a 30" tire to 32" tire is only 1" of lift. even though its a 2" increase.

just curious, why do you want the rear 4" higher than the front to begin with?

or order brand new from tom woods driveshaft. mine was only like $200 shipped to my house. and its lifetime warranteed

I understand that, but the metric ton springs have more leafs in the pack than the standard pack meaning they are thicker and more lift will result, yes? If you stuck a 1" block under the springs while still SUA nothing would change, but if you flip the springs on top, THEN add the 1" block you would gain an additional 1" of lift. I havent measured them, but I'm pretty sure the MT springs are thicker than the standard pack. By how much? I don't know. But whatever the difference is, that is how much more lift would be achieved using MT springs vs standard capacity. Also, why only half the axle tube? I think your missing my point still. the exact amount of lift is the exact height of the leafs+mount+halftube. so yes there will be slightly more lift in a metric ton spring then a standard spring. but its a precise amount. its nonvariable. so you could figure that out right now in the driveway.

Bend the pedal. The throw should only be a few inches. Sounds like it's correct.

Holy electrical nightmare. Now this is why I bought an HO.

No problem. Good luck!

CPS don't read tooth counts. They read "gate" values. Little squares punched into the flywheel flange. The size / tooth count on renix and HO 4.0 (2.5?) flywheels are the same as the starters are interchangeable.

A SUA to SOA swap will net the exact height of the leafs + mount + half the axle tube. This is on all trucks no matter what. Spring capacity or condition does not affect number this at all.

DNA Motoring 3BL-FSPRAN99-LED-SM Third Brake Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9G2TII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wrWAyb5Q716A2

Old chevys used a cargo light very similar to the factory MJ light. And probably can still be readily found online.

I like my CV shafts. No issues here.

I agree... I've never found a reason to ever need anything other then lead lip weights.

So got my shroud in today. And mounted everything up. Install is straight forward, albeit a little tight but all went well and clearances showed no issue. Fan works great, my Temps have never been so steady even with my plow fully raised and climbing hills and mountains. Couple minor downfalls is it now sounds like a freight train, you can really hear this fan when you lay into it and maybe it's just in my head but the throttle response does seem a little slower with the clutch fan vs all electric. All in all I'm glad I did the swap over.