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mikekaz1

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Everything posted by mikekaz1

  1. mikekaz1
    can that open up rear or front facing?
  2. mikekaz1
    might be possible to contact z&m and see if they can send you a CAD drawing of their bed sides.
  3. mikekaz1
    ive had good luck with napa sensors personally
  4. mikekaz1
    just a question, why the "obsession" with a chryco factory vs generic?
  5. mikekaz1
    doesn't look half bad to me I would rock them if I was looking for a highway tire with a mild look to them
  6. mikekaz1
    I feel that lower piece is damned if you do, damned if you don't. would it be sweet? absolutely. would people buy it, yes. but as that gray one shows also, most "hardcore" guys trim off that lower body line anyways, at least mainly behind the wheels which I assume and from what you say is the hardest area to create
  7. mikekaz1
    haha
  8. mikekaz1
    My 1991 still had the old style calipers. But the switch was mid year 1991 if I'm not mistaken.
  9. mikekaz1
    haha
  10. mikekaz1
    Very nice
  11. mikekaz1
    I always assumed its for the diesel as the nozzles are larger.
  12. mikekaz1
    rear cab looks like the worst of the damage, the tow bar definitely saved the nose from worse, the hood is still straight, so theres no lasting frame damage. will it be totaled... yes... is it fixable... yes.
  13. mikekaz1
    I ran 235/75r15 on stock steelies for years, not a single issue in any aspect.
  14. mikekaz1
    no tether on mine.
  15. mikekaz1
    fwiw, gas doesn't expand that much... you would have to be REALLY topped off for it to expand out on even the most extreme days. .069% per degree if you want to get technical.
  16. mikekaz1
    those i5s were actually pretty decent.
  17. mikekaz1
    id offer $5k and haggle till $6k.
  18. mikekaz1
    4.7 weren't that reliable.... I get wanting to be different, but you really can't beat the availability and reliability of a chevy engine.
  19. mikekaz1
  20. mikekaz1
    Spencer is great to do business with. I would message him vs straight ordering as he can often do alot more then he lists on the site
  21. mikekaz1
    Id keep it, even if you just leave it open and not powered
  22. mikekaz1
    If youre not using a TCU and will be having a baja "manual" shifter. I don't believe the TV cable would be necessary. But thats a pure assumption
  23. mikekaz1
    ive found the replacement of the inner brace not 100% necessary for reassembly, but if wanted the frame rails are ~6" wide, flange to flange, you could get some 1/8"x6" flat stock and weld it flush against the floor pan/ frame flange. I see this as easier and stronger then the awkwardly raised 18ga floor brace originally there. other then that, its pretty straight forward, cut bad out, weld new in, try not to overlap too much, and use some seam sealant after over all the welds helps keep further rust away too.
  24. mikekaz1
    https://www.amazon.com/1984-96-Cherokee-Wagoneer-Comanche-Front/dp/B004GAX2G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477081036&sr=8-1&keywords=comanche+floor+pan
  25. mikekaz1
    I got mine through keystone, but amazon has a bunch for ~$45
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