rokinn

You need to determine whether it is an open diff or a trac lock limited slip (or quite possibly something else). Trac lock LS needs a friction modifier. Should be a tag on the back. If it's not there then you need to open it up and determine what it is. If you open it up take a pic and someone on here can tell you what it is.

Great info in the video. Could have said it in half the time but still good non the less.

New track bars range from $14 to $52 for a Moog on Rockauto. Have a shop weld on a proper size grade 8 washer to the front. Ace or whomever has them. If you frequent a particular shop they might just do it for free or a nominal fee. Get a proper length and diameter grade 8 bolt and nut. You don't need a flag nut. A box end wrench will hold it on the back side. I think I used a lock washer also but I don't remember for sure. Torque the crap out of it and check it every once in a while. Drilling out the holes to match a worn out bushing might be the cheap approach but once the track bar wears out completely it just means problems getting getting things back to spec in the future for you or someone else.

Mine was wallowed on both sides as well. I welded a hardened washer on the front side and after several years it's still quite snug. Does the job.

The pin or pivot is broken and is not fixable. You need to find another wing window or at least the frame the glass is in and replace it.

I've been using Magic Lube with good success. Teflon based lube, water proof and wide temp range. Slightly cheaper at Home Despot. https://www.amazon.com/Aladdin-Magic-Teflon-Lubricant-Sealant/dp/B008GTWE8I

Bourne Identity and subsequent installments. Diva.

Changing out the fuel filter is a good idea also.

Two years is a very long time for gas to sit. Given the symptoms I would guess it has fouled an injector or two. I suggest draining the tank and putting fresh in along with a good injector cleaner and see if it clears up. I wouldn't necessarily fill the tank this time, 10 gallons or so will allow for a more concentrated injector cleaner mix. BG 44K is a very good one.

And here I thought it was a whole country celebrating my birthday because my mother was Canadian.

I had similar issues with my axle when I replaced my control arms also. I managed to get mine lined up with the ratchet strap and a 2 meter steel pry bar. Having some help from a friend would likely help. I didn't have one. It will fit. I think it's recommended to do just one at a time. Good luck.

I also took boy's home econ and learned to sew in HS also. The skill allowed me to reupholster my VW camper van. Get to keep some of my cotton clothes longer too. It's becoming harder to find stuff that isn't synthetic.

Looks just like this one. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB226422

I'm guessing that's his wife. He told me he used to be a professional soccer player in Nigeria before he was injured. Gently used by his father-in-law means F-I-L probably drove it once around the culdesac where said father in law lives. Seller lives in central Denver. Amazing that the official carfax mileage is the same as the odometer reading on the 2001 instrument cluster. Nothing this guy says is believable.

That be him alright!

I have watched MMO dissolve the sludge before. Never turning it crusty. Maybe if it's as bad as yours, you should put 2 quarts in at the same time. Thanks. Maybe next time I'll try that, if there is one! As it is the problem is solved on this one.

I suppose one should take this advise with a grain of salt but with no evidence to the contrary I'm happy with the results. When I first got my MJ one of the first things I did was replace the cork valve cover gasket with a Felpro gasket. The top of the engine under the VC was loaded with dense sludge and had a healthy lifter tapping noise. I cleaned it up as best as I could with screw drivers and a putty knife. Better but still pretty bad. I began running some MMO along with my oil as well as more just before an oil change. When I decided to do the VC vent mod I noticed that the sludge had turned from hard goo to large amounts of flaky crud that seemed destined to break off and go into the oil and through the filter or worse, the oil pump. After sopping up as much oil in the top end as I could I put a wet dry filter in my shop vac and ran it right next to where I began breaking loose the crud with a variety of utensils. The vast majority of it would get sucked into the vacuum. Kept at this until it was as clean as I could get it that way. I then started the engine and flushed it for a minute or so. Drained the oil immediately and refilled it with Rotella 5w40 and a new filter. It wasn't long before my tappet noise went away and my idle smoothed out very nicely. Purrs like a new engine now.

Are you getting exhaust flow? Critters nesting in the tail pipe?

I put tamper proof screws in quite awhile back. Having lived in high crime areas for a good while I am naturally paranoid. Any thief worth his or her salt probably has the drivers but just maybe they're not always that smart. Tried to pick an odd one.

No! It just holds that grommet to the throttle body.

A local body shop recommended Corroseal to me for such purposes. I've used it with seeming success so far. You can always try sanding it further with a flap disk on an angle grinder too.

Way over priced IMO but they are rare..... https://www.ebay.com/itm/164574753720?hash=item26516b73b8:g:QQ0AAOSwcmVf0~KZ

If it were me I'd go to Harbor Freight and get some of those dolly wheels and bolt them to the support legs. Proly even spring for the heavy duty ones. But that's just me!

Just saying to the patrolman that you were going 70-75 mph makes it a confessional statement and can be used against you. It will most certainly be considered as Contributory Negligence. That's why when asked by a cop how fast you were going you should always say "I don't know." Same with Lawyers and depositions. Under CO law if you are found to be 50% liable you can not recover any damages from the other driver or his insurance company. If it's determined that you were found to be 40% liable you can recover 60% of your losses in damages and so on. Without witnesses, a confession by the other driver, or some other corroborating evidence it will be a stand off of opposing stories. That you were cited at the scene will also adversely affect your case. I'm not sure about a 50 50 determination but if you lose by anything otherwise, you will be liable for legal costs of the other party should they seek them. Like I said, big uphill battle here.

Guess it was indeed!