rokinn

No problemo. Gotta do something with this day and I can't go outside, smokes too thick. I'm not too far from the now largest wildfire in CO history. Cameron Peak. Gotta wear my P100 mask just to go outside. Nasty.

Found it! I did the Volvo injectors. I think that's got a 746 on the end but don't quote me.

Are you asking which injectors or where I got them. In either case I'll have to dig a little to see if I can be more specific.

Did this swap a couple of years ago. Noticeable improvement in idle and smoother and better acceleration. Nothing mind boggling but noticeable. Can't speak to mileage as I didn't do a before and after.

First question would be where does the vibration seem to originate? First thought was drive shaft U joints. Or front axle U joints.

A box end or open end wrench should do it. I'm able to do it on mine. It's more just to hold the nut so you can turn the bolt from the outside.

This guy is definitely a flipper and not an honest broker. I know because I purchased mine from him. Mine was also gently used by his father in law except the title said he purchased it from U P&P. I've also driven this MJ just a couple of weeks ago as I am in the market for an auto with AC. It's in very decent shape though I didn't take the time to verify a lot of what's been ascribed to as positives. I have to say I like the 3.55 and AW4 combo. I could have had it for $6800 from the previous flipper who purchased it for $5500. He was a nice kid. Said he changed his mind from doing a 4x4 conversion. Like I said I was on my way to look at it for the $5500 when I got the text that it sold. I would have bought it for $5500, short bed and all. in spite of having to play catch up or redo in terms of the good deal of work I've done on the one I currently own. He will keep lowering the price hoping to make as much profit as possible. The time line will depend on whether he has transferred the title or not. I expect he has, however at a much lowered price point. I don't necessarily begrudge flipping, everyone has to make a living. I do however find the blatant and misleading dishonesty personally very irritating.

No, it's quite flat looking.

My dash was pretty sun faded. I've used Eagle One Nano-Protectant for Vinyl and Leather on it. Fading has disappeared and it looks quite good now. I wouldn't say it's a great cleaner but it does rehabilitate vinyl quite well and it's not the least bit sticky.

https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/aurora-jeep-comanche-pioneer-150k/7205918184.html I was on my way to look at this very MJ about 4 or 5 weeks ago at the advertised price of $5500 when I got the text that it had been sold. Saw it again a couple of miles away and went to look at it. Being there first I could have had it for $7k and I declined primarily because it was a short bed, the price seemed at the upper end of value and it was going to need a fair bit of work. Bit of a hatchet job on the floor to column shift. But still a doable price?? Now it's on the market for $ll,650. Sounds like the same guy that sold me mine. Said it was driven by his father-in-law. Looks like the same house even. Says he was a professional Soccer player from Nigeria. My truck was sold to him by U-pull & Pay, (once I got the title). The house does belong to his father-in-law however. He lives in central Denver.

It's looking pretty good as far as break over angle goes though.

Got mine finished on Monday. They work great. Closes like new. I tried doing this job this summer to limited success. Stripped out the bottom torx bolt and had to cut it off. Also had to cut the lower roll pin. Wasn't coming out for love nor money. Luckily I had other hinges from a couple of doors I had. All that and the body side of the hinges were wallowed out and didn't create tight fit but better. I just left it. Getting the door off this time was a piece of cake. I had new roll pins as well as 1/4" bolts. Slipped a bolt in a hinge and a roll pin in the other and decided the roll pins created a better fit. I open and close it now every time I walk by just for fun. Thanks again,

I joined the Army as well, but only after they insisted I come along, willingly or not. Scuttle butt was my draft board was taking 50% marines just after the Tet offensive. Wasn't my cup of tea. For the extra year for enlisting I would get my choice of MOS's and that I qualified for most anything they had. In reality they end up giving you 6 choices, which in reality is no choice at all. They decided they needed Personnel Specialists. As company clerk nobody messed with me and everyone wanted to be my friend. Such is power! Can still type like a speed demon. Even glasses these days aren't as effective as they once were. Best part was SCUBA diving the East China Sea.

Thanks, just placed an order myself.

Found this, seems to be a pretty good explanation of tropical waves. Been through a couple Pacific Typhoons back in the day. Gets the adrenaline pumping for sure. I'd hop a ride on the Hurricane Hunter with you, sans sacrificing body parts of course. Plenty of fresh underwear would be my first consideration. https://weather.com/storms/hurricane/news/tropical-wave-explainer-tropics-hurricanes

I got one from NAPA 2 or 3 years ago. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB226422?partTypeName=Exhaust+Gas+Recirculation+(EGR)+Valve&keywordInput=egr

A bit of additional info on that process that you might find helpful is when you accelerate try to find the point when there isn't a lot of pressure on the gears. In other words at the point where you want to shift, at the top of your rpm's apply a little pressure to the shift knob and let off on the gas pedal just a bit and you will find the sweet spot when there is a kind of neutrality between acceleration and deceleration. ie no more pressure on the gears. Allow the engine rpm's to drop a little and you will find the sweet spot where it will move into the next gear. If you need to down shift give a little gas to the engine and you will find another sweet spot. Takes practice. Try not to grind the gears too much although you will inevitably get some of that in the learning process.

I have the 215/75/15's also. I will also go a bit larger next time, providing I live long enough to need new tires.

I have a set of Firestone Destination A/T tires. Great road performance, low noise, and a decently aggressive tread. Very happy with them.

In the event you determine you need a new sender. https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-W0133-1941653-MPR-Oil-Pressure-Sender/dp/B008ESZ5GO/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=oil+pressure+sender&pd_rd_r=ada2f841-6143-4137-9ee5-2bd35f25f91d&pd_rd_w=iMaYr&pd_rd_wg=bUBBI&pf_rd_p=77b3265a-64e6-4f39-8333-9b68451dda4b&pf_rd_r=G4T1MZCNC2B0X0GB18MK&pid=C17m4P4&qid=1598555757&sr=1-4&vehicle=1990-42-348-20-75-31-8-7-3363-244-8-2-19-137-&vehicleName=1990+Jeep+Comanche#customerReviews

Go to MeanLemons last post the Vendor section for his throttle bodies. He sold it to Skankfoot or something like that. Info is there.

Congratulations. You may want to pick your route with care if you plan on leaving in the near future. I70 is closed through Glenwood Canyon for the foreseeable future as is Hw 139 north of Loma near Grand Junction as is Hw 14 west of Ft Collins, all due to wild fires. Smoke in northern CO area is pretty bad. Current visibility is 2 miles. Two hurricanes due to hit the gulf coast mid week and move up through the Mississippi and Ohio valleys. I would expect a fair bit of flooding in that area. What's your destination?

Gainesville FL area.

Comes up for me. 2 Comanches for $1600. $1300 for red one, tranny in bed. $300 for white one, has no engine or trans. Bed supposedly good.

No guarantees the shop will know how to do it. Best to know the options yourself before hand and then ask them what they will do or what you want them to do. Turn on the air conditioner and look in the engine bay. The fan should come on. If it doesn't then something is wrong. You can run wires from the battery to the plug in for the fan on the drivers side to see if the fan runs. Just unplug the wiring and run wires from the battery to that plug. One from the neg post and one from the pos post. Black should be the ground wire. That will run your fan. If you don't want to do it let your shop do it. It could also be a bad relay in the circuit. The one for the fan is on the drivers side on the fender panel. The Macsradiator link I sent you can convert it to an open system. You just need to supply an overflow bottle to the system. If you go that route check back for options on bottles. I think your system isn't purged properly. If they didn't put a dealer thermostat in they should have drilled a hole in it to allow air to pass through. Find someone who knows what they are doing on how to purge the air. You don't need to go putting another radiator in it. Closed systems work fine when set up properly. BTW I put a 2 row radiator in mine. Some of the 3 row radiators had issues with durability as my first radiator replacement did. The Macs bottle is just about the same price as another radiator but the labor is rather less. If you go with another new open radiator you can use the current pressure bottle as the overflow bottle. Search my posts on how to do it.