rokinn

Not my experience at all!

I've been using the KYB Gas A Just shocks (kit @ amazon) for 4 years now and they still perform quite well. I drive a lot of winding mountain highways and rutted dirt roads and have no complaints about how they handle, but then I can't really compare them since it was the first thing I replaced when I bought my MJ. Only problem is that they cost a hundred bucks more now than they did then for the set. The springs sag more under load than I would think it should but empty it sits exactly at the designated manufactured height. A couple hundred lbs in bumper tongue weight shows but doesn't seem to affect handling very much.

I'll be curious as to how that works out. Perhaps you can post a photo if it works for you.

I'm curious as to where that gets mounted. thx

I believe I got the plug from Lowes. It was part of a different set of connectors I tried to use before my new fan install but it ended up leaking so I just simplified with this setup. I tried to find something with barbs on both sides the other day and couldn't. This one is threaded on the top side so I wrapped copious amounts of Teflon tape around it and then clamped it. Seems to be working so far. I thought about using the top vent but wasn't sure how much overflow to expect so I just plugged it and vented the cap.

Not bad, too bad they don't make some things (most) like they used to. I didn't think about that being the efan temp sensor bung. Seems rather large, over an inch in diameter. Have you figured out how you're going to do your overflow bottle? I repurposed my renix expansion bottle. Just left it where it was, ran a hose from the rad overflow into the bottom of the old bottle. 3/4 diameter hose and clamp on the bottom of the bottle and and a 5/16 barbed plug attached to that. Plugged the top hole and drilled a small hole in the cap for air venting. I may make a switch to another system but this was quick and easy for now.

It depends on how your radiator is constructed. My old new one had an O ring where the drain plug was. There is also a larger plug on the drivers side/engine side that would leak because the O ring had deteriorated quickly. To be honest I'm not really sure what it's for. To add to the above overheating issues my old new radiator sprung an almost imperceptible leak somewhere in the aluminum construction itself. It was sucking air from there also. I changed to an open system with a new 2 core all aluminum radiator and so far so good. It was cooling well except for when towing up a slow steep hill and getting caught in construction traffic. It's called summer in the mountains. Hence the E-fan install. Which I am now quite happy with.

I had the same type of overheating problems that you seem to have. I heard gurgling when I would shut the engine off. I would repeatedly burp the system. Once I replaced the O-rings as stated before I was no longer sucking air and the problem went away except for in the most extreme situations. I've remedied that by installing an auxiliary e-fan. If you are hearing gurgling then I reiterate that you are getting air into the system from somewhere.

Make sure all of your rubber O-rings on the radiator are sealing well. Not cracked or dried out. Make sure all of your hoses are sealing well also. You could see a little bit of coolant weeping on either or both. On the open system when the engine cools down it's supposed to suck the coolant from the overflow bottle back into the radiator. If you have an air/coolant leak of any kind it will suck air into the system instead/or as well as the overflow, which will lead to overheating (which also makes the cycle even more extreme). A cycle, rinse, repeat scenario, if you will. Within a very short time my new radiator was leaking from the o-ring seals as they were of the very cheap variety. I bought the HNBR (hydrogenated nitrile butadiene rubber) assortment from HF and they are still sealing well. Just a thought. Good luck.

Thank you for the advice. Much appreciated.

I'm getting around to installing an auxiliary electric fan and have a couple of questions as well as a general run by on the plan as a confidence builder. I'll be using a fan out of a 91 XJ. The 97+ is better I know but this is what I have for now. I'm putting a 210 on/ 200 off switch in an HO thermostat housing. I'm running the power through an SPDT relay (the ones that come from the renix relay panel under the hood). I'll be using a 30 amp fuse between the battery and the relay and a 5 amp between the ignition and the relay. I'll be using a rectifier diode IN5408 between the relay and the fan. I may add a manual on switch from the cab but will start with just the temp switch for now. This truck was never wired for a fan. This is the plan I'm using. https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/coolingfandiagrams.pdf This is the switch with added pigtail from Rodney Dickman parts. http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=88 Questions: 1. What is the best way to get power from the ignition switch? Just run a wire in to the Ign slot in the fuse box or....? 2. What should the minimum gauge wire be from the battery to the relay? 3. The switch pigtail has 16 ga wire. Is that adequate? The plan says to use 8-10 ga for ground but the switch is the ground. ? Thanks for any input.

I had the pressure reduced on my steering pump. How it was done I don't have a clue but... I took my steering box in to a local rebuilder and had it rebuilt as well as installing a ZJ worm gear. I had him check out the pump as well as it seemed to make a fair bit of noise and the whole steering just seemed amped up compared to anything I had driven before. Even allowing for the worn box. He said he reduced the pressure in it as it was significantly more than it needed to be functional. IIRC he said he reduced it from 17 to 9 psi but don't quote me. The road feel is much better and there is no hard steering at low speed.

Maybe it was just a typo from "Trust Bank" and they already had all of the stationary printed up and rather than make new stationary they just went with it. Saved hundreds of dollars for the share holders that way.

Personally I would sand it down to bare metal sooner than later. Rust can eat in pretty deep in tiny pits pretty quickly. It's best to get it all if you can. The rust converters don't seem to work all that well. A year is longer than you think when it comes to rust. Prime it, paint it in a matching Duplicolor. You can get the code for the color on the vin plate. You can even spray clear coat on it if you like. Cromax A-7480S is a high quality one. Be sure to wear a good respirator and eye protection. It's pretty toxic. If you do it in the garage give it plenty of time to clear before inspecting your work. Ask me how I know! The rust on the right front and rear of the bed are deeper than you think. Stitch in time and all that.

If any of the above doesn't work I would (and did) pull the seat covers off and run them through the washing machine. If they are cloth they are probably pretty dirty anyway. You can then go to Pet Smart or such and buy Nature's Miracle. It kills bacteria and viruses as well as odors. I even sprayed in on the foam cushions after removing the covers. It doesn't leave any imbedded perfume odors like a lot of other cleaners do and works very well. If the headliner remains problematic you can always replace it. Mine didn't have one so I had no choice. Good luck.

It's the Metric Ton package! Brought to you by Engineers R Us.

It's because nobody knows where their a$$ is anymore. I'm surprised there aren't boxers hanging in the windows.

I still have a tube of distributor shaft point lube in my tool box. Still have the tach/dwell meter and timing light also. Wife and I each had early 70's air cooled VW's. Valves needed adjusting every 3K. Points, condenser, timing adjust and oil change as well. Brake adjust. Seems like I lived under those two vehicles. Glad that era is past.

There appears to me to be an oxidized surface layer over the entire tail light. There are a variety of products that will clean that up. Did it to mine and it cleaned up pretty well. The tooth brush with the same product is a good idea also. I also used LED replacement bulbs and they are quite bright now. Not like rear fogs but plenty bright for my uses. These are no longer available but I'm sure you can find alternatives. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ED35ALY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Addendum: Thinking about what I did a bit more. I took down just the oxidized surface layer of the old clear coat. You just have to feather the interface between the remaining clear coat and where it's completely gone.

Pete, I used Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Professional Ultra-Cut Compound with a buffing pad as well as some fine grit wet sand paper where the clear coat was still fairly thick. Completely buffed and sanded off the clear coat and buffed off most of the oxidized paint on both the hood and top of the cab. Also did some dent repair behind the wheel well as well and the bed rails. I used rattle can primer and paint with the proper paint code on some of the areas where I had to get down to metal to bondo some surface rust and dents. Paint matched perfectly. I then clear coated with Cromax A-7480S. It's supposed to be high quality non yellowing unlike some of the other cheaper brands. The hood ended up with a fair bit of orange peel so I used buffer I purchased from HF and a pad along with the Meguiar's to clean it up. Gotta be really careful because you can get down too thin in a hurry. There is a compound with less cutting action also depending on how well the job comes out with the clear coat or just buffing out some of the surface oxidation in the old clear coat. A little wax after it's cured and voila. It's not like a new paint job but infinitely better than it was before. Looks pretty good in fact. Good luck.

Kind of a Mad Max model with all the creature comfort upgrades.

Kyle is long gone now. At least if he's smart he is. It's too bad! I read the original, now deleted, posts on his request thread, albeit my memory is not verbatim. He was met with some screed of immediate suspicion and invective like the tentacled body snatchers that decry the "enemy of the people." While I don't consider myself the likely candidate for the interview since I'm a relative newby and this is my one and only ever Jeep pickup, or Jeep for that matter. However, I also don't appreciate someone else's effective usurpation of my choice by disparaging the person asking on the forum if I would like to talk to them. Apparently a lot of others don't care for it either. It's also Pete's prerogative to censor what ever in HE/double hockey sticks he feels like. It's his website.

Personally I think we could use a little more self censoring on this site and a lot less opinionated world view. That said, the guy writes for a living and is looking for another story that might be of public interest. Here's what he writes about. https://www.bloombergquint.com/author/60981/kyle-stock#gs.1hpc1e What was that old saying? Paranoia to the people! No, that's not it. Lighten up indeed.

I rebuilt a VW bus engine only to find out afterward that the fault was really the inaccurate compression tester that I borrowed from my buddy that owned an auto repair shop. One should always follow the old carpenter's adage, measure twice cut once. And then there's, I cut it twice and it's still too short!