Strokermjcomanche

You'd be ok Pete .

4 on each side , one on the bottom . 5 total on each side

Hmm , wasn't aware of such a piece . I've never seen anything different looking on any 91 or newer xj / mj , but I very well may be wrong ..

I stumbled on this in an old post , Pete posted this picture . Is this one of the trucks you are referring to ?

Welded

Lol. The lanes are not synthetic where I bowl , when they start drying out I just end up throwing the ball harder as moving left messes with my mind .

Gogmorgo: I've never heard of 5 pin bowling until you mentioned it , I'd like to try it one day . I'm perfectly happy with a 299 , but I would have loved a 300 . If you get a 300 you get $100 and a ring . 299 basically gets you nothing except for a patch , they use to give a ring too but now they're cheap lol. Hornbrod : my next highest game was a 286 but I'm roughly a 200 average bowler nowhere near PBA status lol. A good friend of mine ( Adam Barta ) is though . I keep watching the video over and over of my last ball wondering why the 10 pin didn't fall . 89 eliminator : that's horrible you got a 7 /10 split , I don't know what I would have done . The highest series I ever had was a 750 . I can't seem to put three good games together . Good job on the 298/ 772 , I'd love to have an 800+ series one day .

I Did something I thought I'd never do , shot 299 !! Buried the last ball and left a stone 10 pin . We were in the the roll off to win this 3rd and need to win all 3 games to take 1st place and lost the last game so we took second place , oh well . There's always next year . Anyone have a 300 ?

Here's a good fix http://m.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-31001?seid=srese1&gclid=CNit99_mtsoCFQ8yaQodav0LRw

If the 10 pin connector doesn't fix your issue more then likely you need new turn signal sockets , had to replace them on a couple trucks .

You need a 1/8 NPT pipe plug , or you can use an old sender if you have one lying around .

Swb

No . Punch the old nuts out , make a steel plate that sits inside the frame rail , drill holes in the plate and weld the nuts to that plate that has the same bolt pattern as the hitch . The hitch and plate will sandwich the frame rail and will allow you to unbolt the hitch if you need to .

I haven't really touched this in a couple months but there are a couple small updates : Had an issue with the truck not wanting to run without jumping the fuel pump , ended up being a fusible link that had melted . Fixed that and the engine runs as it should . Took the truck up and down the road a couple times around Christmas and even with 3.07 gears and 31s it was pretty quick , spun the RR tire up pretty easily . The truck has the Dana 35 rear axle and don't see it living to long with my driving habits and the stroker . Ever since getting the truck I've been searching for a stronger axle and 4.10 gears , came across a 99 2 door 4cyl XJ at the local pull a part with a 8.25 for $75 after returning the core axle . Only downside is the XJ was 2wd and I'm still on the hunt for the front axle but I can drive in 2wd while I'm searching for the front axle . Another thing I wanted to do was lift the truck around 3 inches . Stumbled on the ARB / Old Man Emu 2934 front coil springs on Amazon and Hornbrod pointed out they also had some OME N190 rear shocks which should work with the lift too . Amazon had the shocks listed at $54 ,half the normal price and the springs were $30 cheaper too . Once I find the front axle , the weather warms up and I have time I'm going to lift the front and see what I have to do to make the correct stance . Right now I'm still in the collecting parts phase ...

The belt number you referenced is a 15430 dayco or a 7430 gates , whichever you prefer ..

Everything came in today . Amazon prime was quick with their 2 day shipping that was part of the free prime 30 day trial membership . Everything was new with no damage . Now just to put them on ... Thanks to everyone that replied !!

The Op has an 86 which shouldnt have a 4.0 from the factory Iirc There are several belt routings/configurations in 86 so you may be better taking the part numbers off of your old belts to be sure or what numbers you need .

No hole... The hole on the left side of the picture half way up is the only hole in the tunnel on both my 88s ( one std and one was column shift ) and the 89 ( std ) . This is the picture I used to locate the hole (it's a 97 + firewall I know ) . To me I call it the firewall because it's still vertical , but it could be considered the tunnel .

I drilled mine with the motor , trans and interior in so it can be done . Yeah its close to that other hole . If the hole is off a little bit it shouldn't matter , there is extra slack in the cable .

Image Not Found Image Not Found These are what you need ? If so send me a pm .

I have the # 7 for sure , the # 5 I'd have to check . You can have what I can find for shipping if you want to modify them .

Yes , the number 7 lever . And if the # 5 bracket( if it can be done )is moved to allow an inch + slack in the cable they will be moved equal distances .

Maybe bend / fabricate the mounting bracket for the cable at the trans side to give the cable the slack you need. Then fabricate the shift lever/arm at the trans to reach an inch+ further/ closer to the cable end .

Mopar 52077532 (or equivalent )is the shift cable you need . The floor shift cable shouldn't exit the firewall on the drivers side of the booster , only the column shift cable does .

I have strokers in two of my renix trucks and they run fine to me . If you're deadset on losing the renix , why not get an HO donor and switch to HO then ? Just an option ..