Strokermjcomanche

I don't but I want one. I just don't know where to get one. I'd like to get something rather then make one so that I know it can take X amount of pounds.Krustyballer16 on here make hitches . I'll get a link http://comancheclub.com/topic/47686-hitch-plates/?fromsearch=1 I have no idea where to get a prefabed mount , but I'm sure one of the good metal fab guys on here can steer you in the right direction .

Do you have a trailer hitch ? If you do How about using something that slides into the hitch ? It would be easily removable ( but heavy ) and it would be a nice solid place to mount to .

I start my new job on Monday , they had a couple hiccups which prevented me from starting earlier . They had me fill out an old application which in turn I had to go back and fill out the new / updated one , and they also had an internal audit which prevented me from starting till it was completed . Thanks for all the good words and it looks like you'll be seeing less of me on this forum until I develop some kind of a daily routine lol. For anyone wondering where I'll be working , it's called Lafarge / Holcim based out of France . It's a construction landfill and I'll be doing various tasks like sorting debris ,operating small machinery like a bobcat , with the movement up to operating 60 ton dump trucks and other large equipment . I don't know every detail about the job as of yet but I'll find out on Monday . It has good pay after the initial 6 months and I'm happy to be going back to work as well . Thanks again !!

I have a 92 washer bottle if you need one

Good to know it won't settle too much then .

34 1/4 inches from the ground , through the center of the hub to the lowest part of the flare . 20 inches if I measure from the middle of the center cap to the lowest part of the flare .

Why ?

I will measure sometime tomorrow . I measured from the center of the hub to the lower lip of the flare and it was around 20 inches , I'll get a more exact measurement with measuring the way you described .

I stumbled on this in an old post , Pete posted this picture . Is this one of the trucks you are referring to ? I always wondered what the story behind that truck was :D Was in fact a limited truck Pete ?

Ended up kind of jumping the gun and installing the lift , that way I could see how the stance was and if any additional parts would be needed . Here's a couple pics with the 31s before the front was lifted . And after It sits level enough that I shouldn't have to mess with the rear . It's pretty much the stance I was looking for . I'm eventually going To get some WJ lower control arms, front shocks, adjustable track bar and I have stabilizer links on the way . I will put on all this stuff when I find a 4.10 front axle to match the rear . Next on the list is installing the dual diaphram brake booster and master cylinder .

Have you checked the brake light switch ? It's towards the top of the brake pedal with two wires going to it . http://comancheclub.com/topic/38850-fixed-no-brake-lights/page-2

Inside mounting picture ( passenger side ) Driver side mounting Underneath passenger side Underneath drivers side ( and my thumb lol)

All the other pics turned out like crap , I'll take more later today .

Grab ones out of the last few years of the older 4 door Cherokees (96 - 92?).The 2 door cherokee ones are different on the 97 + , so I would bet they are different on the older ones too . Not sure when they started the newer bolt in design but they work much better . It is a good idea to lube the regulator where the cable rides inside it the tube , there is really no point in taking the regulator apart . As far as the right lube goes, someone else may comment on that . If you're worried about the regulators becoming extinct ,start collecting them now . If everyone would grab them when they're at the JY I don't think we'd run out of them . There are atleast 30 96 and older Cherokees in my local JY , half of those having manual windows .

I was running short on time , I'll snap a pic in the morning .

I like lizard skin sound deadener

If I don't finish this now .I'll finish this later tonight when I get home . First line up the splash guards to the flare leaving roughly a 1/4 inch gap like this .. Making sure the guard is level, look on the inside of the wheel well and you'll see where you'll need to slice the guard to clear the lip where the bedside and inner wheel well meet .. You will also have to remove this screw .. Then take a piece of masking tape and put it on the splash guard roughly where you're going to have to make the cut . I used my 4 inch angle grinder with a cutoff wheel ( you may choose whatever you're comfortable with ) I made the cut about 1/8 inch wide x 2 inches in length . Then it's as simple as drilling holes in the guard and the inner wheel well and attaching it with some 1/8th inch screws with a large washer so the guard doesn't pull through .

Read this http://comancheclub.com/topic/39234-towing-with-my-mj/?fromsearch=1

The Sneaky Pete is a great tool to have too .

Good thing you have upgraded springs . Looks like a stay in type of day .

Never heard of that , I'll have to look it up . What do you like better ?

You'd be ok Pete .

4 on each side , one on the bottom . 5 total on each side

Hmm , wasn't aware of such a piece . I've never seen anything different looking on any 91 or newer xj / mj , but I very well may be wrong ..

I stumbled on this in an old post , Pete posted this picture . Is this one of the trucks you are referring to ?