87Warrior

I have to agree. This thread sparked by curiosity so I took a look at my company truck in the driveway (2011 Ranger). I could not see an effective way to put the 60/40 bench in an MJ unless you are okay with a 5" seat lift. Plus, the Ranger 60/40 seat is the most uncomfortable bench seat I have ever sat in. Give me a worn out MJ bench over that any day!

I've never been a baseball fan, but I must admit, it is nice to hear about the Royals winning for a change on the morning radio sports report. Oh man, I can only imagine! I used to work for KCP&L near the stadiums and can remember traffic when it was a slow year.

Been a Hughesnet user for years. I would venture to say it is about as fast as 4G now that we upgraded to the latest system. I live within 4500' from the end of the telephone exchange in an area with no cell phone coverage and the ONLY other option is dial up, not even DSL. We even have a Verizon network extender wired into the Hughesnet that allows us to send and receive text messages out here in to boonies.

My wife has a 02 4cyl Camry that is at 213k. Short of a starter, ties, battery, oil, filters and brakes it has been trouble free. Burns a quart of synthetic oil every 5k miles. Rocket, you need an E12 socket to get those bolts out.

This isn't quite accurate. My 86 2.5L 4x4 has the two piece rubber filled drive shaft.

I installed 2x4 1/4" box in place of my rotted out rockers. I like the 4" box since it fits snugly under the doors vs the 6" box that creates a lip outside the door that can capture ice, mud, etc.

Whoops, I should have been more specific. The 2.5 starter bolts are VERTICAL, near the bell housing. Guessing either 1/2" or 13mm socket, I don't recall. I just took a peek while adjusting the trackbar on my 86.

Your 86 may have the remote (motorcraft style) solenoid on the inner fender, not attached to the starter like most. Regardless, you will still need to remove the wires from the starter and unbolt it from the block. The starter bolts are easier to access on the 2.5 than the 4.0. PRO TIP: Pull the positive battery cable from the battery before poking around the starter.

Flags? As in CB antenna trail flags? If so, count me in for 2. As far as samples go, digital samples would suffice for me!

Understandably so! Thanks for the complement. I am glad that someone beside myself is enjoying the build. My family thinks I am nuts for investing so much time and cash into this truck. I think it is worth every penny.

Look ma', NEW SHOES! 265/75R15 Cooper Discoverer AT3

The C2C pan is built on a brake out of great metal. However, it fits like a square peg in a round hole. I have never installed a Sherman pan but have used Sherman rocker with good results. I have installed a Raybuck pan, which looks like Sherman in pictures. The Raybuck pan is pressed and fits darn well, is made of decent metal and includes the most 'tranny tunnel' metal of all pans I've come across. Note: Regardless of what a manufacture claims, there are NO MJ specific pans or rockers available. They are all XJ parts that may need modified to fit.

Yup. Be skeptical of the touch up paint. I ordered a can from jeepsareus and the dang spray was pink! When I had my truck painted, the body shop man told me the color was more costly to mix due to the pigments it uses.

Congratulations! Now we need pics and details :)

I just installed well worn RE 3.5" TJ coils (100k miles in my Rubi) in my 86 MJ. I expected 2" of lift but got a solid 3". I suspect this is because I have a 2.5....

I believe this is how my family and neighbors feel.

Both. Depends what part of the truck you are working on. I have found I use the metric side of my toolbox more when working on the MJ.

In regards to the rear spring, search the forums for 'bastard pack'. There are several folks who have built leaf packs from a variety of vehicles netting around 3" of lift. As long as the leaf (or leaves) you are adding have more free arch than your existing spring pack at ride height, you will get lift. Some popular choices are S10 and Dakota springs. There is really no best way to go about it since your needs differ from another's. Just make sure you replace worn out friction pads and clean, smooth, paint and lube each leaf as you put the packs back together. This will really help (improve) ride and articulation. I recently added an MJ main to my leaf pack for a little boost in my 86. Up front is the same as your TJs and XJs, so you should know what to do there.

I just added a 2wd main to my 4wd pack. It added about 2" of lift. 1" was realized lift and the other made up for the 1" I lost due to the larger 8.8/perches. You can find more info in my 86 build thread. The biggest challenge for me was locating new anti friction pads to install in the new leaf.

Parts finally started to roll in to get the rear end buttoned up. First up was the NAPA rotors and SpiderTrax spacers. Followed by loaded Centric calipers and Dorman hoses, all for a 1998 Explorer of course. I picked up set of gently used Bilstein 5125 shocks from Hornbrod intending to use them on my 92 build. They seemed too perfect for this truck so I elected to go ahead and use them. I then ran into a snag with the lower shock mount. Very few folks swap in the 8.8 and keep it spring under. The small shock mounts that come with the 8.8 swap kits would effectively mount the shock 4" higher than stock. That is not acceptable to have any travel in the rear. I ended up modifying a TJ shock bracket that came with a MAD4x4 8.8 swap kit I never used. I really need to install a new bumpstop and reconfigure the brake line mounting. I dropped her back on the ground, installed the front driveshaft and a new V8 ZJ draglink then went for a drive. The truck rode very smooth, the 8.8 was nice and quiet, and the brakes work phenomenally.

I can only imagine! I find the struggle is real even with 5.13s! Now days I try to avoid 70 in the high country. Working in Avon for a year made me despise 70.... I really like your truck. So simple yet so effective!

Those E12's are quite the mystery.

I may have the back half of the wiring harness from a 91 but will need to verify it is intact (not destroyed by rodents). Are you sure the parts from a 91 will work? I know there are a few key plugs that are specific to the 91 model.

Very nice. I look forward to watching the 2.5 improvements!

The C2C pan is built on a brake out of great metal. However, it fits like a square peg in a round hole. I have never installed a Sherman pan but have used Sherman rocker with good results. I have installed a Raybuck pan, which looks like Sherman in pictures. The Raybuck pan is pressed and fits darn well, is made of decent metal and includes the most 'tranny tunnel' metal of all pans I've come across. Note: Regardless of what a manufacture claims, there are NO MJ specific pans available. They are all XJ pans that need modified.