87Warrior

I used the RuffStuff D60 bolt on brackets for a D61 rear end. The 3/4 ton Chevy rotors are tall and pretty darn thick, and they are 8x6.5 bolt pattern. Great for full width swaps or bigger wheels. You might be able to fit a Ford Explorer rotor on to the rear axle. It is larger than a D30 rotor and would probably be a better match to the Chevy calipers. Of course you will have no parking brake unless you source those funny Eldorado calipers.

When I did the late model external conversion in my '86 2.5 with a YJ AX5, I pieced together the clutch hydrologic system from various NEW parts (slave, master, hydrologic hose). The cost was significantly less than the pre bled systems and I have piece of mind knowing exactly what fluid is in there. Bleeding the system took about 15 minutes and has been trouble free since.

Thank you for the kind words! This past week I heard my wife accidentally admit to liking my truck. Then again, maybe it was because the truck allowed her to finish a closet remodel while raining outside. I had to give the cap some attention. The lift struts were shot when I bought the truck. I typed the part number from the strut into amazon and two days later it was fixed!

I too used 1/4" bolts. For the spacer/tube, I found a hardened steel spacer/bushing/pin at the hardware store just down the aisle from the grade 8 hardware.

Congrats on the new purchase. I am sure you will enjoy it. I must admit, I've never understood the allure of motorcycles.

Reminds me of last year when an intoxicated driver attempts to launch a Grand Cherokee off of a trailer parked along the Interstate....Dukes of Hazard style. Thank goodness the truck didn't have any occupants! Beware: language.

Just don't loose that gem of a truck in the sea of JK's!

I figured it was the remote plug for the winch tucked behind the bumper?

Your AX15 is doing the same thing my AX15 did in my YJ when the synchronizers went bad after using the wrong kind of gear oil (GL5=WRONG). It got so bad I would have to shut the Jeep off to get it into 1st. Try using a quality 10W-30 synthetic motor oil or something like the Redline MT/MTL fluid and see if the symptoms start to go away. I would not suggest trying to put the AX5 behind your 4.0L. Since you are low on funds, why not drive the 2.5L truck while fueling the Jeep fund?

I have the $55 one. Only used it once since install and that was on a paved road at a flood crossing after a heavy rain. Water was at bumper level with a nice bow wave until a kid in his powerstroke decided to cross coming at me. Had a nice wall of water come over the hood when the bow waves collided.

If the crossmember has never been dropped, plan to snap some, if not all, of the bolts that go into the uniframe. Have drill, bits, tap, bolts and anti-seize on hand if the truck is your only transportation. Don't forget the E12 socket for the two upper bell housing bolts. If you cannot secure a driveway or garage, buy a 4x8 sheet of plywood to put under the truck. Not only will it prevent the loss of parts in the gravel pit of doom, but will provide a smooth surface for the trans jack to roll on. Use a ratchet strap (tie down) to secure the transmission/tcase to the trans jack instead of the chain. It will provide more control and is easier to remove when done. Leave the tcase attached. The linkage can easily be disconnected once you crawl under the truck to see how it works.

In my opinion, yes it is a worthwhile upgrade, especially if you plan on doing an axle swap anyhow. It is a simplified design and you can get them with larger/stronger ujoints. You can also upgrade to aftermarket shafts. I had locked the CAD unit on my '86. Even then it work work loose leaving me with no 4wd. I swapped in a '93 XJ D30 and could be happier.

It was time to pick up rocks for more landscaping at the house today. I may have exceeded the maximum trailer weight for an MJ today. Braking wasn't an issue, but maintaining forward momentum was as was traction. I had to put it in low range to get up two hills on the road to my house. Don't try this with a D35!

Yes. I need another MJ like I need a hole in my head, yet I still look. I have decided if a clean, stock, rust free truck pops up for sale locally I will buy it. Have looked at several 'rust free' trucks over the past few years and guess what, I've found discouraging rust on every one. My point is that you are getting on the right track searching for a rust free chassis. The drive train and interior are like legos and can easily be swapped around to your desired configuration. The truck is worth what you are willing to pay.

For all intensive purposes 4.11 is the same as 4.10. Some folks just round differently. Keep in mind, most shops won't provide a warranty if you supply the parts.

IIRC his truck has a WJ front axle and a WK rear axle. Those axles are a little wider than stock.

I really like the clean lines of the non winch version and have been eyeing them for a few years now. It is one of the few aftermarket front bumpers that actually improve the trucks appearance.

Do you have a chart or diagram outlining the resistance values for the 2.5 TBI sensors? What about a photo showing the differences between the various unit bearing for the D30?

This is exciting!

Looks sharp, as always, but I am not a fan of the new wheels. I've got to agree. It would ice the cake!

You can remove the 91 dash harness and install it in your pristine dash. You will need to swap over the HO cluster as well. I think you would be wise to go with the HO swap, especially with a complete, correct, donor sitting right there. You should have little to no fabrication and everything should fit like a glove. I believe using a Renix donor would require about the same amount of work.

If the 91 is truly a lost cause, it would be the perfect donor. Swap everything to the 90. Drivetrain, radiator/support, engine/interior/bed wiring harness, dash, fuel lines, fuel tank and fuel sender.

Yes. Checkout JeepDriver and MnkyBoy build threads.

I used all 99 XJ parts. Seat, Bracket and floor brace. I cut the floor brace out of the XJ and mounted it in the MJ then simply bolted the seat bracket to the brace/reinforced floor. The seat is quite comfortable although the floor for the MJ does tilt the seat bottom a little forward. I have not tried to remove the newly installed rotor. However, I do recall the worn out rotors that came on the axle were a bear to remove. The worn out parking brake shoe was snagging on a lip wore into the rotor hat. The rust was also not helping. I used a MAPP torch to heat up the rotor face and hammered the rotor off with a mini sledge.

The truck has been running well and is sitting at about 182k miles. I am having an issue with the fuel gauge that I have yet to solve. The tailgate started to get difficult to open and close so I disassembled the latch mechanism, cleaned up the handle and pins and treated them with graphite. Now it is silky smooth! I also had an annoying exhaust rattle that required a new clamp. The Cooper AT3's are at 6k miles and are due for a rotation. These tires continue to impress me on this truck. I am not sure if I can convince my wife to let us take the truck to Woodland Park, CO this July for a wedding we are to attend. It would be a long drive in the HOT plains without A/C, but I'd like to do it :) You see, I'd like to do some exploring the few days she helps prepare for the ceremony and I don't think my TJ would have enough cargo space to get all of the decorations out there...