87Warrior

I suspected a stuck float as well. However the float arm moved freely with with little to no resistance. I couldn't look into the tank for any random obstruction since it it is still installed, but I can't imagine anything inside the tank would be an issue.

1986 2.5 TBI My truck has developed a stubborn fuel gauge, meaning it stays at full as I drive it. It now has 3/4-1/2 a tank of fuel (verified by pulling the pump assembly) yet the gauge reads "F" full. I started by checking the ground at the tail light and the weather pack type plug to the pump assembly. I checked the ohm output of the sender installed in the truck and it read 105Ω. As I understand the renix era should read 0-88Ω empty to full. The sender seems to have built up some resistance over time, but hey, none of my Jeep's fuel gauges read 100% accurate. I unplugged the pump assembly and the gauge read well past the full mark. I believe this is what should happen. I then pull the pump and sender from the truck and manually manipulate the sender's float arm. The gauge in the truck responds as it should; float bottomed out the gauge indicates empty (low fuel light NOT illuminated), float all the way up the gauge indicates full, etc. I removed the cover on the side of the sending unit and the fins/resistor strip appeared to be in good condition with no obvious sign of damage. The contact path along the fins/resistor strip had a tan appearance. Another antecedent to this whole ordeal. A couple of days ago I left town in the dark after a long day of volunteer work with a recently topped off fuel tank. While rounding a corner my 'low fuel' light flickered on and off a few times while the gauge stayed at full. What am I missing? What could be the root of these issues? I suspect the sending unit may be failing or may need cleaned up. Is it possible to clean any varnish or tarnish from the fin/resistor strip in the sending unit?

I have always disliked the 'flat' shift lever in the XJ and TJ. Seems you fixed that quite nicely :thumbsup:

I had a suspicion that you would be an experienced Ham, Jim! I do understand that the middle of the roof is the best location for a VHF/UHF antenna. I just don't have it in me to drill a 3/4" hole in to the roof of my '92. I am hoping to find a location that minimizes the compromises. It is my hope that this thread will yield a few options for me to try out on my '86 before tackling a permanent solution on my '92. Since this will be a game of compromises, I anticipate I will need to try a few different options to see which is the better performer.

I am sure a few members here are licenced amateur radio operators. I am seeking advice in regards to placing a 2m/70cm antenna on a MJ. My requirements - Non invasive. I don't want an antenna blocking my view or interfering with the doors/hood function. - I am not drilling a hole in the roof for a NMO mount. - Must allow the occasional use of a fiberglass canopy. I am curious to know how others have overcome the limited mount options on the MJ and how they are working for you. I am currently sporting a Baofeng UV5R with a mag mount on the roof. It seems to work well, but I am looking to build something more permanent with a real transceiver in the cab.

That is the Ford swaybar mount. I left the mount on mine in-case I try to adapt the Ford swaybar to the MJ someday. Are you going SOA or staying spring under? If staying spring under, you will need to buy longer shock mounts as the ones with the RuffStuff kit are far too short. I stayed spring under and set my perches/pinion angles identical to the D35 I pulled from the MJ. I used Mobil 1 75w-140 synthetic fluid with the additive for the limited slip. Ford recommends 75w-140 for the 8.8 rear end.

Check, then double check, then triple check the trackbar. Frame mount bracket, trackbar to bracket, trackbar to axle.

Looks nice! When media blasting the undercoating off of my 92, I discovered the frame rails were in fact body color. They also had a coat of primer and that funny gray anti-corrosion stuff on top of the bare metal.

On my 86 2.5, the sensor is in the high pressure hose.

If you are ok with well weathered Turbines I would be glad to do a swap of the sorts. I have 4 in the typical slightly corroded condition you find these wheels in. The only issue is they are under my 92 project in the garage and I have to keep it mobile. If you have a set of 3 (I have 1) wheels with tires that hold air relatively well, I'd be happy to do a swap.

Take the truck to a tire shop and ask them to check the alignment, but not perform one. They will give you a printed report of your front end measurements. I had the local Firestone do this for my wife's Camry since after 220k miles the alignment has never been checked or altered. It was still within specs.

I feel the same way about all new Jeeps, with the exception of the Compass since I haven't been in one.

I just hope my wife doesn't pick up the mail first!

I'd pass on the dodge front axle. They have an even more ridiculous axle shaft disconnect than Jeep and they use unit bearings. Sure the axle is stronger than the Jeep D30, but after you get it installed you really won't get to reap the benefits of a full width swap.

I completely agree with you, Eagle. The 3550 in my TJ provides a much more pleasant driving experience over the previous AX15 vehicles I have had. At 130K miles mine still shifts like butter. The 3550 will sometimes have a slight rattle, like soft marbles rolling around, when the vehicle is idling in neutral.

I need a (1 of 8) factory 13mm seat mount nut. Seems I have misplaced my surplus stash and am missing one for my '92. I have a hardware store nut/washer in place now, but I would like the real part. Looks like this: Shipped to Junction City, KS (66441). Thanks!

Are you positive your new thermostat is operating as it should? My bet is the autoparts store thermostat is opening a bit early.

I agree with Jeep Driver. Get that motor running right. Follow Cruisers tips. Don't worry about the C101 connector on the '86....it doesn't exist ;) Yes. But that will require new axles that can support the deeper gears. 4.88 is as deep as you can go in stock axles. I think my TJ Rubi is a dog on hills with 35's, 5.13's and a 4.0. Mnkyboys 2.5 is something you should look at. I think the root of your problem is a tired motor. You can do a tune up and replace/clean sensors, but a rebuild is the only way to 'restore' what little power the 2.5 made when new. I know my 181K mile 2.5 with 30's and about 2" of lift is tired, and it requires a downshift to 4th at any hill on the interstate usually topping out at 70mph.

I like the Renegade. My wife hates it. I think they look much better in person than in pictures. Talked to a guy in a non TH model at an interstate rest area and he said it has no problems overcoming a Kansas headwind. I also still like the Patriot. Haven't sat behind the wheel yet, but I think it will be like driving my wife's 220k mile Camry.

Any truck that is rust free. Seriously. The XJ and MJ are like Legos. Don't like a part or option, then replace it with another that will pretty much bolt in.

The before was sooo clean!

I had no idea Downey finally started selling a cover for the long bed. That looks sharp. No drill installation I assume, using clamps?

The truck seems to be built with fair to good quality parts. But, there is absolutely nothing special about it besides the D60 rear axle and the built D30 up front. The truck may suit your needs as an off-road truck with AC, but I agree with the others the price needs to be slashed by 50% to even look at it.

Remember, going SOA will provide you 6" of lift with the factory leaf springs. In your first post you indicated you already have a 3" lift, so going SOA with your current suspension would put you at 9" of lift over factory. Going SOA will not increase your 'flex'. That can only be accomplished by the leaf spring pack.

Keep looking. You don't want to deal with the additional cost of setting up a ring and pinion. Plus, the 91 axle will have smaller shafts and drum brakes.