yxmj

I had a Jeep like that once.....Every time I turned left it shifted into second.

I think the above needs to be re-thunk It is perfectly normal for the fuel pump to turn on when power is applied without the motor running......you will here it "whir" for the first few seconds after the key is turned on, then shut off....nothing would be unusual about that. OP says the sound is not there when motor is off but is there when parked and in gear.......IMHO look at other causes than the fuel pump

1) Maybe it was filled using the shift tower method and they added too much fluid....now the excess is bleeding off.. 2) NO.....

Motor would run without the gauge......disconnect it so that it is out of the picture altogether....does your misfire go away?

The only thing spinning (aside from the motor) when the engine is running and the truck is not moving is your flywheel/clutch/pressure plate assembly..... You would have to (SAFETY FIRST a friend might help here) block your wheels, engage your parking brake, start the truck in neutral and stick you head under and see if you can narrow it down. A Mechanic's Stethoscope is a handy tool to block out peripheral noises.

I have never had a problem withe the glue stick.....but it is a good question as there are 2 types...low temp and high temp....the low temp usually come in the smaller size and are for small "Hobby" guns. The ones I get are high temp and have a melting point close to the plastics used in the air-box......so if your under hood temps get to the point that your air-box is melting.....maybe there are other issues to address first

Without starting the truck turn the key all the way to on....is the sound there?

Get on you back and Crawl under it with a Flashlight.....is there anything that you can see that makes you say....Duhhhhh

All 3 of the factory versions have a "roll bar" type cross support that would give some added rigidity to the frame....and maybe a bit of safety in a crash ( and a great place to tuck in some speakers and a light I would guess)

This has become my new best friend..... https://www.amazon.com/Diameter-Compatible-Industrial-Adhesion-Quickly/dp/B07NX899CS/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Black+glue+sticks&qid=1574261668&sr=8-5

As above....And unless you would like a taller shift rod....... rob one off a fubar xj tranny......the wrangle one might not be to your liking

Are you charging it while it is still connected to the truck? Unhook your positive cable and trickle charge it. As well if you are using a newer digital charger (I found this out by accident) I have a "CAT" brand digital charger......best charger ever.....but for one flaw.....will not charge a stone dead battery....battery must have at least 5V so the digital circuitry will recognize it (FYI if you are using one).

After Market, 4.0 YJ's only came with plain Jane metal covers Here is another example https://collinsbrosjeep.com/93-04-yj-tj-4-0l-aluminum-valve-cover/

I would grab a can of PB blaster and start soaking bolts down now. as well, if they have not been changed the 2 top bolts on the bell housing are (if i remember correct torex....T?) you will need that and long extension to get them Even if the Master is good change the line between the master and slave to save you problems in the future..... I have the same truck and been there so any problems just ask........

Yes ....you are reading my mind.....In my design the "ramp" was a one piece deck that pivoted at the 60% point (making it a drive on drive off for an experienced driver) like the display stands they have in front of a lot of car dealerships now. I would add a single pivoting drop down leg ( Like the stabilizer legs on a camper) that could be folded down and locked in during loading and unloading. The only concern you might have is the front ski stance of the modern sleds.....back in the day they would fit in between the wheel wells .....now some of them are +52" wide.

I don't know what they are rated for.....But I have the same size box and thought about fab'en up one of these. I would carry a bit of the load out there and would definitely help stabilize it......They are available at both PA and CT in Canada

Does it make the noise in 4H and 4L ? The video from my end sounds like a creaking.....?

Why can't you just pressure wash it? I car-wash my motors all the time and never had a problem.....and on my Xj's the alternator has been submerged on many of them with no ill effects. Wash it with a car wash and blow it off with compressed air?

Just a thought.....can you lay under the truck.....with the rear wheels on jack stands would be ideal but not necessary..... grab drive shaft at the front yoke and see if you can wiggle it up or down or side to side......Just a thought but there is a bearing at the rear of the transfer case. Never had one vibrate....it just blew up

I do not want to point out the obvious to you.....but the balancing of the tires is the place to start.....you can change every bushing and the track bar....put on new ball joints wheel bearings ....shocks.....rebuild the whole front end.....if the wheels are out of balance it will still shake......maybe since you say your budget is limited you should start there... IMHO

You might want to start with your front wheels/tires......is the rubber healthy.....are they balanced?

Hope so if he is looking for a front axle shaft.....cuz if it is a 2wd.....it is going to be a FUBAR time fitting it in......

From you signature and build thread....you converted to 4x4? What front axle did you use? Is there a junk yard in you area that would have XJ's of that era? Otherwise you would have to start canvassing the parts stores or on line.....

Check and see if during the line BBQ.....did you melt or disconnected a vac line....like the one that goes to the map?

Check your u-joints on the front drive shaft.....especially the one coming off the trans case.....