yxmj

If the 24 lb injectors you are using are the red ones..and you find them too much for you ....here is a plug and play fix.......try changing them to the Ford four hole yellow (orange)....I run them in my 4.0's as well as my 2.5 in the YJ Here is a list compiled by someone else for junk yard use I came on a yard that had a stock of old police cars so I highlighted the ones I like.....But they are all the same. 93-94 Bronco 5.0L 93-94 Bronco 5.8L 92-98 Crown Victoria 4.6L 93-98 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor 4.6L 03 E-150 4.6L 03 E-150 5.4L 03 E-150 Club Wagon 4.6L 03 E-150 Club Wagon 5.4L 93-94 E-150 Econoline 5.0L 93-94 E-150 Econoline 5.8L 97-02 E-150 Econoline 4.6L 97-02 E-150 Econoline 5.4L 93-94 E150 Econoline Club Wagon 5.0L 93-94 E150 Econoline Club Wagon 5.8L 97-02 E150 Econoline Club Wagon 4.6L 97-02 E150 Econoline Club Wagon 5.4L 03 E-250 5.4L 93-94 E-250 Econoline 5.8L 97 E-250 Econoline 4.6L 97-02 E-250 Econoline 5.4L 03 E-350 5.4L 03 E-350 Club Wagon 5.4L 93-94 E-350 Econoline 5.8L 97-02 E-350 Econoline 5.4L 93-94 E-350 Econoline Club Wagon 5.8L 97-02 E-350 Econoline Club Wagon 5.4L 00-02 E-450 Econoline Super Duty 5.4L 00-02 E-450 Econoline Super Duty Stripped 5.4L 97-98 Econoline Super Duty 5.4L 00-04 Excursion 5.4L 97-02 Expedition 4.6L 97-02 Expedition 5.4L 93-94 F-150 5.0L 93-94 F-150 5.8L 93-94 F-150 Lightning 5.8L 97-03 F-150 4.6L 97-03 F-150 5.4L 93-94 F-250 5.0L 93-94 F-250 5.8L 97-99 F-250 4.6L 97-99 F-250 5.4L 99-03 F-250 Super Duty 5.4L 93-94 F-350 5.8L 99-03 F-350 Super Duty 5.4L 92-97 Grand Marquis 4.6L 94 Thunderbird LX 4.6L 94 Cougar XR7 4.6L 96-04 Mustang GT 4.6L 98-01 Lincoln Navigator 5.4L 91-93 Lincoln Town Car 4.6L Here are the part numbers for the injectors: OEM 0280150909 BOSCH OEM 0280150939 BOSCH OEM 0280150943 BOSCH OEM CM-4714 MOTORCRAFT OEM CM-4718 MOTORCRAFT OEM CM-4719 MOTORCRAFT OEM F0TZ-9F593-C FORD OEM F0TZ-9F593-DA FORD OEM F1TZ-B FORD OEM F1VY-A FORD OEM FOTE-B1A FORD OEM FOTE-D1A FORD OEM FOTE-D5A FORD OEM FOTZ-C FORD

If the u joint is gone enough to click......put in 4x4.....Just jack up that side grab the wheel and rock it back and forth...it should not rock back and forth to confirm ....if you have a buddy.....turn the wheel to make visual conformation easier and one be the rocker and one the looker....if it is clicking it will be obvious

Just to be sure.....You replaced your water pump with one that rotates the same way? There are reverse rotation pumps (that look and fit exactly the same). Lack of proper circulation could cause overheating and would blow the hose....

I have a large trailer with a SURGE brake....basically a hydraulic break system that works just like your MJ brakes....when you brake in the tow vehicle the hitch collapses and presses the brake pedal on the trailer. I had always thought it would be a project to use on on a tow bar.....extend some brake lines .....tie them in to the vehicle being towed and voila hydraulic brakes.... Never got around to doing it This is available....or fab your own.....Click on the install link for a good description https://www.readybrake.com/store/p4/ReadyBrute™_Elite_RV_Tow_Bar.html

True My app was pre-loaded....just called messaging has a green square "Talking Balloon" as an icon I also use "Whats App".....and it has the same feature accessed the same way.

Wahoo is correct all Android have that feature

To reply to the post above….. Yes this has been gone over and here again....and again..... the error is putting the sensor in the hottest part of the water flow before the rad….if placed after the T-stat or in the upper hose before the rad, once the motor reaches operating temp, the fan will turn on and run constantly. If anyone can disprove this with hard facts, then please do. My proof is below, I got the Idea from Hornbrod who used this location on his stroker successfully for years For the sake of this description we are going to remove the mechanical fan and replace it with one single electric fan (I use stock XJ/MJ fans but an aftermarket will be the same). We will assume a working 195° T-stat and a 195° N/O switch. And a moving truck. First we install the temp switch in the T stat housing or upper rad hose…….we drive and run the truck up to temp……Stat opens @ 195 and allows fluid to flow…Motor will heat the coolant beyond the 195° point ….switch closed completes the circuit and turns the fan on…..fan will stay on constantly as long as the motor is running now….it will only shut off when the motor is shut off and cools down. Now we install the switch in the lower (return) rad hose as described. Motor is run up to temp….Stat opens at 195° and allows the fluid to flow…..water pump does its job and pumps the water through the rad and out the return hose past the switch….If the act of the water running through the rad with just the air flow of movement drops the temp below 195 ( as much as 60° ) the switch will not close and the fan will not turn on…..BECAUSE IT DOES NOT HAVE TO……so you now get the benefit of removing the mechanical fan (I do not have the numbers on HP or MPG gain but it would obviously be something as the motor is no longer working to turn the Mechanical fan or in the case of the constantly running electric fan the extra load on the alternator.) And like I said at 60 MPH….my fans do not turn on even when the temps are in the 90’s Should the coolant in the return line be above the 195° mark the switch would close complete the circuit and turn the fan on until such time as the Temp should drop back down to the 195. And before any one asks this one…..A 195° T-stat does not mean you motor is constantly running at 195°…..they run hotter than that …..195° is just the temp that the stat opens up and allows full circulation of the coolant. There are other high end car manufacturers that place the switch in the lower hose from the factory https://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=100 https://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/anyone-running-electric-fans-sensor-questions-1928378.html https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/cooling-fan-sensor/39133/page1/ https://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/288712-electric-fan-those-who-put-temp-switch-lower-radiator-hose-inside.html http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=270950 https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/20-6-2l-diesel-engine/829130-electric-radiator-fan-sensor-temp-lower-hose.html http://www.fuelly.com/forums/f10/coolant-fan-temperature-switch-5252.html

Try putting your fan trigger switch in your lower return rad hose. There are splice pipes with bungs out there to buy or one can fab up their own easy.

How about this.... Native Bread (Bannock) Great on the trail The most common way to cook bannock is in a skillet on the stovetop or over an open fire. But you can bake it, flipping the whole thing halfway through so that it was evenly golden and crisp. 4 cups all-purpose flour 2 tbsp baking powder 1 tsp salt 1 ½-2 cups warm water ¼ cup lard or butter (for baked or traditional bannock) oil for cooking (for stovetop bannock) In a large bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder and salt. For baked bannock: Make a well in the middle of the flour mixture and pour in the water, then stir just until combined. Spread the dough into a greased or parchment-lined 9×13-inch pan and drop three dollops of lard (or butter) onto the top of the batter. Bake in a preheated 400˚F oven for 20-25 minutes, turning once to brown the other side. For stovetop bannock: Gradually add enough water to moisten the ingredients and bring the mixture together in a ball. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and gently knead about 10 times. Shape the dough into round patties about ½-inch thick. Cook on an oiled skillet for 3-4 minutes per side, until golden brown. For Traditional, form the dough around a stick like you would a hot dog and cook it over the fire.

Yes same idea

Never Mined Meat Loaf…….Stuffed Meat Log…. You can use any “Meat” ….I have a grinder so with this one I used what I had in the fridge so it is about 60% Beef 30% pork and 10% chicken. I will do 2 here. You start by getting the biggest zip lock bag you can (you will see why) and fill it with your meat....if you leave a corner unzipped you can flatten it easy Now take a knife or a pair of scissors and carefully cut up the side of each bag so it opens and flaps up over the bottom. Now start adding the Flavors......Mustard Then Mushrooms Spinach Marble Cheeze Ham Some Famous Ray’s BBQ Sauce OK…..if you look you can see I left a border of about an inch all the way around……so now if I grab the edge of the bag nearest to me and slowly lift… I can start to roll it up like a chunk of carpet…..lift a bit….let it roll on itself ….lift a bit….let it roll…..until you have formed a meat log… You can cook in the oven….BBQ…..but I did mine over apple wood for 3 hours Last pic was with someone else’s phone but you can see the layers and get the Drift…..YUMMMMMYYY Thanks for Looking......Mod.....I can't figure out why the ham pic below keeps showing up at the bottom I tried deleting it but it keeps showing up....if easy can you remove the bottom pic?

People are to quick to panic

I do not have a clue what the post above has to do with your question ........but 1) Keep in mind that a D30 from a YJ will be spring under and will need to be drastically altered to fit your MJ (if that is my understanding of what you want to do) 2) If it has 4.10 gears then it came from a 2.5 truck and finding a 44 behind a 2.5 from the factory would be rare in any jeep not just a YJ (no matter were it was built) 3) All YJ D30's are CAD (not that there is anything wrong with it.....I like the extra strength built into the housing because of it) IMHO your best bet is to keep on the same search everyone is on.....look for a 4x4 XJ or MJ that came stock with a 2.5......easy peasy ......direct bolt it.....and they are out there. Good Luck

You can Buy Parts for them https://www.quadratec.com/jeep-replacement-parts/wrangler-yj/yj-dana-44-rear.php

Here is a bit of documentation (scroll down to the 44 section) I might have more https://jeep.fandom.com/wiki/List_of_Jeep_axles

As I was answering another post, something i have been thinking of makes me post this.... A lot of ford 8.8 in Jeeps of all shapes and sizes....has any one ever used (or hear or read of) the factory diff mounted ford speed sensor to set up a cruise control on a non cruise Jeep?

A ford 8.8 would be more common in your area. Cheaper and easier to convert....and the wheel bolt pattern is a match. One correction on the post above....it would be Import versions.....if you are Talking about a YJ in the US.....if they were built here I have a 92 and a 93 both came with D35's (one is stock the other a 8.8) I have never personally seen a Stock YJ 44

Since it is a 19 year old Tj.....maybe it is an Ax15.....OP never said it was OE....just said the Ax15 came out of a 2001 wrangler......I know around here nobody ever mods a jeep....but I hear there are places that they do............

2WD ....31's stock control arms American Racing rims (off set) I do have XJ front coils that put in mainly to even out the rake

I think your problem is the alternator Bracket....not the alternator.....can you post a picture.....I have the same year and motor maybe i can help you out.

You need to clear up what you have...The alternator will work with either motor..are you saying that you have an alternator with a pulley for a serpentine belt and you need on with a v-belt....What year is the truck?

If it has been sitting I would drain the gas and put in known good fresh fuel....?

He means his first guess is the crank position sensor

If your truck has a stock t-case the difference will be a reduction of 2.72 : 1 You can shift from 2H to 4H when moving ......as long as all 4 tires are turning at the same speed (....you can't be spinning your rear wheels and yank on the shifter) Shifting from high to low or visa versa on the fly is an art form and not recommended