Oizarod115

i suggest a MOPAR part... i used an offbrand and ended up doing it again. it worked the second time. i think the mopar seal was like 3 dollars more or something. DEFINITELY worth it. go factory with all important stuff

get an oil pan gasket for a 95 4.0 cherokee, that way its a one piece and very easy to deal with compared to the older ones (same thing just multiple pieces.) its MUCH easier on a lift and look up the torque specs on the bearing cap. its stages i think 40-70-80 ft/lb stages. you may have to take the starter out to get to some of the oil pan bolts. and use a brass punch or something to knock the seal out and then grab the part that sticks down with some pliers. here's a good write-up. http://www.myjeeprocks.com/feature/rear-main-seal-removal-and-installation/ except i didn't need to drop the exhaust like he did :dunno:

That's usually easily accomplished with a good running stroker. :cheers: or just a good running 4.0L lol.

depend on the trade-in value of the car and the amount you actually owe on the loan. if its worth (i have no idea what it is so I'm makin somethin up) if its trade in is 10,000 and you owe 13,000 keep it cause yuo'll add that 3,000 to the top of the new car's loan if the trade in is about equal to what you owe or even more than what you owe get rid of it, and apply the money to the new car.

damn. he messed all those defenders up.

www.rubiconexpress.com www.ebay.com www.rustysoffroad.com the likes of those.

damn... sounds like one stuck @$$ rotor, good luck with the rest of the bolts/getting the hub off if the ROTOR is that stuck :eek:

not the ultimate... i wish i had digital pics of it, cause its sold now, but my boss had an 80s volvo 240 diesel sedan with a 95 or 94 5.0L mustang under the hood. :brows: fuel injected, five speed, 5oh volvo sedan.. (he left the 240 diesel emblems and dumped the dual exhaust just shy of the bumper so it wouldn't be obvious.

hard to get parts? :nuts: if anything theyre cheaper than HO parts... case and point fuel pressure regulator on my jeep 20bucksish, on a buddy's HO 80ish.

damn, i gotta get mine in a jeep hat now. sticky this pete? :brows:

I'd like to emphasize this step! I've had more than a few needle bearings fall flat onto the cap, and in my enraged state of fury I've crushed them into a million pieces. Most come with a little grease already in there (you can see in Jeff's pics) so they should stay in place. Just take it slow! Nice write-up Jeff! I'd like to DOUBLE emphasize that step. My first attempt at axleshaft u-joints would have gone MUCH smoother had i seen a write-up like this. THANKS for a great write up. another few tips: autozone, advance auto and the likes will "rent" ball joint presses for 40 dollars, return the press to get your money back in full. if the press gets tight and you can't get the joint out, (assuming the clips are out) tighten it down as much as possible (the factory joints on a 1989 truck can be tough ones ;) ) and then whack the press with a hammer, sometimes that and the press being tight will blast them out :bowdown: good write-up!

:cheers: most of the time the only question you get is, "where y'all go ridin' at?" but now i get my tires through my boss (work at a local 3 person shop, bossman is the owner) and i mount them when it's slow. ;) :cheers: hell yeah for the south!

ooohh ahh, one of our frequent customer/friends is a helicopter pilot for a strip club owner (multiple club owner) and he's always flying girls to and fro and taking the boss wherever fancy place he wants to be. sounds pretty awesome. hope it works out man :cheers:

lets play find the fun icon. :cheers:

yeah, you'll need both uppers and lowers as far as links, try to get some that are adjustable (just incase "inch-itis" hits.) and go with a flexy end and a solid end, poly bushings at both ends isn't the flexy-est setup out there... rubicon express is always recommended other stuff idk if you know you'll need will be brake lines and a trackbar.

corrected :cheers:

its gettin ugly in Georgia too. fun thing about southern snow is overnight it turns from slush into ice... good luck on that. :cheers: you can drive in deep snow you can't drive on thin ice.

depending on the price i may be interested in your stock 4x4 leaf packs...i assume they will be in the scrap pile after this? pm me, also, where are you located?

put them on and don't look back. i never got hung up on mine, and when i wrecked they saved the entire front end by taking most of the impact. [

new about 4 months ago :cheers: those look rough though, even factory maybe. :eek:

whats all that white crap all over that jeep? :nuts:

silly XJs MJs are cooler. nah, my brother picked up a replacement body for his wheeler pig XJ. 2 door great body, damage to the steering column, doesn't shift well (auto), 2wd, makes noises... BUT THE 4-0 DON'T LEAK! for 1200 :cry: you stole that poor mans(or woman)s jeep man! however it is a 94 and has COLD a/c worth it!

we plug tires (the brown rope type) as long as its a screw or nail. (at the shop) if its a gash, or multiple wounds i run them down the street to goodyear and let them internally patch it... then mark it up ;)

OEM parts are where it's at, i get all factory stuff through work whenever i can.

DAAMN. this is one CLEAN switchbox. :bowdown: that's Go-jeep clean right there. :bowdown: http://fitchva.com/jeep/?p=42