Oizarod115

:bowdown: she's a beauty. hopefully the lift is for looks not to abuse (wow, i never thought i'd say that.) that shows you how nice that truck is! i'm never into "poseur" rigs. but your truck is amazingly clean and will look awesome lifted.

haha, i've chilled out from posting so much too, i've been 6-7 day workweeks since mid december and dating multiple chicas. (rough on the pocket) got 2 days off in a row this weekend. first time in 4 months.

for you folks wanting to travel for a rust free example i found a couple nice ones. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/car/567698259.html thinks highly of it eh? 5500? http://atlanta.craigslist.org/car/612150979.html some of these people are smokin crack... 3300 for a 2.5L? 2wd? http://atlanta.craigslist.org/car/605246120.html bit pricey again. 3900 http://atlanta.craigslist.org/car/595812714.html all nice looking jeeps, but mostly 2wd. i was TRYING to find some leaf springs but these were all i got.

i had one guy ask me at the gas station, "hey man, did you like... take a cherokee and put a bed on it? thats sweet man. nice work"

i've ran several fram filters with no issues, but i don't make a habit of it. right now i'm running a volvo filter (volvo mechanic during the day, jeep enthusiast by night.) and there is a volvo part for everything ;) among top brands to stick with are WIX, purolator, and i'm not sure if theyre available for jeeps but we use MANN filters at work and i do ALOT of oil changes, and haven't paid for any motors yet so i guess theyre good :dunno:

Probably Control Arm Bushings, more often lower but can be both upper and lower if alot of miles on the clock. Make sure it's not an optical thing. If the axle is moving making you think it's the body it would be more Track Bar related. Well its definitely optical,, I can see the whole body shift from side to side.. remember this trucks has no wheels on it and is on blocks.. And when I turn the steering wheel (under power/running) it moves, but the axle stays put... that means your trackbar is FUBAR. the trackbar locates the axle under the jeep. which is why when mine fell out i went to turn and nothing happened, thats because the body moved overtop of the axle instead of the tires turning. oftentimes in order to get a trackbar back in when you lift the jeep you'll have to turn the wheel to move the body so you can get it in its hole.

31" tires are definitely going to affect your gas mileage and it's not gonna be positively. 15 isn't really that bad honestly. hell, i just searched ford and a 2008 3.0L v6 ranger is rated 15mpg city, and 20 hwy... and thats a 2wheel drive with 235/75r16s.

i filled up for 3.12 last night. diesel is up aroudn 4.05 but i did see it the other night for 3.59... nearly 50 cents cheaper than the other stations that day.

yeah its for a 97-02 tj

my boss has a 97 TJ thats been torn down for building and we've run into difficulties. does ANYONE know ANYTHING about the pro-comp stage 3 4" long arm lift? i've been searching around for reviews and other builds or even jeeps that just have it. i can't find JACK about it its like he's the only one that has it the problem is the skid and crossmember don't line up with the frame sleeve/CA mounts AT ALL. like... way off, and pro comp gave us measurements that are the same as what we have, and nothing matches up, he bought a seconds crossmember/skid to see if we had a bad one and we got different (but still wrong) parts. what gives? anyone know any hearsay on the kit?

... thats scary :cheers:

as far as the front diff being low, as long as it wasn't run DRY for a period of any length and she doesn't "sing" going down the road, don't worry about it. just keep an eye on it and fill her up when necessary. the trackbar thing... idk, my trackbar FELL OUT, at 55 miles an hour, i went to turn and kept going straight. (see dictionary for SCARY-EFFING-FEELING) ended up jerking the wheel a full revolution and made the corner narrowly avoiding the dodge next to me. and i never once got a wobble, pulled over and put it back in (fell out at the frame end and laid down on the diff.) i had an annoying shimmy that turned into death wobble when you hit something at speed and since replacing my lower control arms that is cured. eye the CA bushings for rot.

wouldn't be worth the time, the HO motors seem to get worse mileage anyways :dunno: the 99+ intake might help, but you have to adapt TPS and all sorts of stuff and swap power steering setups

how's it going to push the air out the top if its not running? it'll just stay where it is right? although i do agree that you should do it cold but seems like it should be running? (idk, i don't have the temp sensor so i've neer been able to do it.)

alright, now according to you guys an HO exhaust will NOT fit on a renix head correct? then how do i have a 97 head/block with renix intake and exhaust on it... if it doesn't work one way it shouldn't work the other right?

in a wheel bearing, the only good play, is NO PLAY. you don't want any noticeable movement.

if your truck is 4 wheel drive you'll need to change the gear ratios to match each other (you can wait to do this until you have the money but DO NOT use 4x4 and i would suggest pulling the front driveshaft if you don't match the ratios so the urge doesn't get the best of you but other than the gearing being different or if its 2wd there's no reason to change the front axle

is it in the column? if you're jumping the relay and she'll crank then you're not sending juice to the relay right?

Thanks for the replies, I suppose if i change one the others should be changed? Anyone know the dealer prices? you can just replace the o rings on the old ones that are not leaking but they just slip in the hole, so no screwing necessary

design II design III? huh? i'm not sure what the difference, never heard them referred to with design numbers? i'm running a ford 5 liter injector 19lb but my jeep is renix not HO i'm not sure what the lb/hr rate is on an HO

could be a bad CPS from the store or you could try another ECU i'm sure someone here has one

you can't push them with a pen or pencil, its a bent paperclip only item. it may seem like you pushed them but only a paper clip or something small like that will do it. EDIT: or are you saying you have NO numbers visible? even a clock with no bulb will show numbers in the right light, it may need replacing.

don't mess around with the seal. put a MOPAR rear main seal in it... for 8 bucks its worth the factory part. but go with a fel-pro one piece oil pan gasket which i'm sure you can find from NAPA, thats the expensive part of the job.

i was able to find a cherokee guy with the original trailmasters who wanted braces and he bought the braces from me so i ended up scoring just the brackets. :cheers: hopefully some of you can too. i only paid 200 shipped?

i was thinking more along the lines of your new motor for your truck cleaned up the air you were putting out the tailpipe :cheers: