Oizarod115

check out this website here, it'll tell you how to diagnose your engine with the use of a multimeter. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm more than likely something there will help your problem as well as checking fuel filter, plugs, the basics if they aren't new.

:dunno: i bought my truck with a newish 4.0L and a BA10 and i've beat on that transmission (i'm 18 now, bought it 2 years ago) i slam the gears daily, and in 25,000 miles i haven't managed to hurt it. that includes wheelin, hauling axles/engines and yanking f250s out of mudholes in 4lo its not THAT bad... or maybe we're just lucky?

sounds cool to me!

you mean like this? (my brothers first car. he made the best of what he had )

if waht you want is an electric fan that cuts on/off by itself get a large hose adapter made to fit one piece of rad hose to another and put a bung in the middle of it for a temp switch, then cut the lower rad. hose put it in, and wire her up. the orange wire going into the solenoid on the drivers fender should be the on wire for the fans.

there is no reason to swap in an open system, just replace what's broken and run with it. my brother and i both have the closed system and besides busting up radiators (flipping and rear-ending) we haven't had any trouble with it. i had a gauge that read 60 degrees hot and ended up replacing most of my system's parts and she ended up running at 160 for a few months cause i swapped in a low thermostat to get the gauge to read at 210! DOH! :oops:

:cry:

EF! lemme pull the dent in the box and mine'll be back to 13,500 one of few leftover 89 models with the Peugeot 5 speed transmission! own this truck today! "possible museum condition"

man, that makes me appreciate working on a lift all day, a CPS on a cherokee is a gravy ticket. few foot long extension with a wobble 10 and 1/4" ratchet. my brother had to do one in a driveway with limited tools and ended up with a socket in the bellhousing and spent forever trying to fish it out with a magnetic thingy. :bowdown: to the lift-gods. :brows: glad you got her fixed up.

my truck's heater control valve defaults to hot, so it shouldn't need vacuum to blow hot. turn the truck on, and play with the valve, and have someone tell you if the heater starts kicking warm, if you hold it open/closed (opposite of whatever its doing that doesn't blow hot) it should work. if not then your heater core may be clogged.

and actually you can have a loose track-bar with NO death wobble or any indication what-so-ever. i was driving tonight, went into a slight corner at about 45-50 (the speed limit) and the truck iddn't turn so i cranked the wheel about far enough to make a 90* turn and barely scraped by without knockin the truck next to me. pulled over as soon as i could and found my track-bar lying on the diff, and the castlenut chillin in the frame mount. :eek: :eek: :eek: re-installed and cranked down as much as i could. but there was no prior indication of the problem, and it had ot have been loose for a while considering it fell out on its own. but i was doing 70 about 10 miles prior to this no problems, smooth as glass, hten the whole way home from work before that 45-60 smooth as glass.

when you replaced the rear main did you use a mopar part or a napa seal? i used a napa rear main on my moms 95 and it leaked like a seiv afterwards. tried again with a mopar seal and she's dry as a bone now. a rear main leak will drip from between the inspection cover and the bellhousing.

you're working with a 4.2/automatic? it MAY fit, but may not. some 86s were setup for the 4.0L transition and some were not, one question though, why not use a 4.0L/AW4 ?

my death wobble was fixed by LCA's

WOW expensive! thats all i checked but wow. a front drive axle with a cv joint in a late 90s volvo (replace them commonly so i know the price) is around 80$ WTH

sort of... you will need to replace the temperature sending unit for one for the full cluster and oil pressure sending unit, then you should be good.

while you've got the valve cover off take both the ccv flange thingy's OFF the valve cover (3 screws each) and clean them out completely i'd go ahead and replace/clean the elbow fittings as well

i scanned through but i don't think anyone mentioned. that bottle isn't (shouldn't be) an overflow it should be a pressure bottle with a pressure cap on it. check the cap, and if you didn't get a pressure bottle try replacing it with one from the dealer. i think the cap is like 9 bucks through mopar. and check the temp of the engine with a laser gun! the gauge may be lying to you!

i'm not tryin to be an @$$ or anything but from the original story it definitely sounds like this was a pristine moment for 4lo. and it sounds like it was a hill climb as well... :dunno:

yeah, but with my truck at operating temperature the gauge would have been pegged out to H and i STILL would've assumed it was needing parts. ;) the number doesn't really matter since most cars are calibrated to have operating temp in the dead center however i replaced the thermostat and temp sender today (both mopar replacements) 22 for the sender and idk what for the stat. and the gauge seems to be dead on for now, i'll check it all over with the laaaser gun monday. she's running slightly below 210 (with NO fans on until i sit dead stop for a while) i now have heat, and all the pep back i never knew i lost sum-b*@$£ feels even better now :popcorn:

PARTY TIME! :popcorn: :cheers:

yeah, i get that now haha. :redX: i'll try the new gauge sender and if she's still off then i'll try the ground then if she's still off i'll tap in an aftermarket one. ;)

yes you should keep the 88's flexplate because your CPS will read differently than the one on the 98. (i'm assuming you're retaining the stock renix wiring/sensors?)

has anyone heard of running a quart of ATF in with your oil to help clean it out? i know ATF has detergents and stuff in it

yeah, we're gonna do a BG induction service on her to hopefully clear it out, and a new gauge sender from mopar (27$) and new 195 stat from mopar ($10 with gasket) the oil is always black blakc when i change it so i'll probably run a few short length oil changes with some BG oil additive and see if that own't clean me up a bit. on the bright side, i never overheated the motor and i thought i had since i've pegged the gauge out in the 270s a few times.