Oizarod115

205 is NOT overheating... 210 is normal for a 4.0 and that means the gauge is fine, sending unit is bad most of our sensors work on a "resistance-to-ground" so they'll offer different resistances at different temps, so with it plugged in its got no resistance to ground when you take it out it thinks it has infinite resistance to ground. hence the gauge going to the extremes when plugged in and not plugged in

thats a bad-frickin-@$$ i love lopey idles :cheers:

that shouldn't insult him, if he's asking 700 over the BB value on the thing sheesh. an insult would be offering 500 bucks, it does look nice though, 4wd?

x2 a whirring/whining noise is a telltale sign if its coming from the alt i'd guess you have 2weeks to a month before replcaement time. mine got to the point it would start whining (intermittent problem in my case) then the volts would cut out and it quit workin for a few minutes at a time eventually she went out and didn't come back for about 15 minutes so i replaced it oh and the bro's XJ did the same exact whirring noise cause as soon as he heard mine he told me i had 3weeks and sure enough! :redX: 3 weeks later

its pretty odd for a dealer to do ANYTHING if they didn't get paid for it. especially if it involves swapping a 5speed for a 4 speed with the same gearing? that's just a complete waste of time unless the one is exploded. :dunno: thats weird man. you said they also swapped motors at the same time?

Yes, 1987s do have a fuel pump ballast resistor. I have a 1987 Comanche SporTruck 4x4 with the 4.0L I-6 sitting here right now and it has a fuel pump ballast resistor on the drivers side front inner fender. but he's right you should still replace it, cheap part, makes the pump quieter and supposedly last longer so it can't hurt. but don't be afraid to drive it like that for a while if you've got to

i would still see if you can't get a laser thermometer or something of the sort just to be sure, then replace the sender! 250-260 shouldn't hurt a 4.0 much, i passed emissions at 250* :oops: OOPS guess the gauge wasn't faulty after-all (i had thought/been told the gauge was bad when i bought the truck) but i drove it like that for a long time she still purrs today, (only now at 190ish) :brows:

i think i would like them to stick out a little further to help protect flares and mirrors a tiny bit. but i do like your design, is the angle actually touching the rocker? seems like it would bend easier than a tube setup, you tried hi-lifting on them yet?

i wanna go skydiving.

............ :roll: :rotf:

did that after she stalled on the trail once winching, CRAP! i must've killed the battery... waited forevevver oh, wait... she's in reverse. DOH!

oh and any parts store worht a junk will sell a 7mm hex head 3/8th in drive separately and on the back of the package it will say brake caliper socket or something to that effect, i've had to buy it twice due to losing it once, it actually says jeep and years on it. oh, and if you ever have any STRIPED bolts again... try spray paint, it'll make them all one color again :nanner:

dealer should be able to run you off a set if you can prove ownership and bring the VIN, i know they can for ignition but i think they can for door too.

:popcorn:

ever hear of a tape measure and a pipe wrench? been running home alignments on my brothers jeep for 2 years on the same tires, no funky wear, nothin 8) or get the expensive LIFETIME alignment (they re-do it free)

:popcorn: :fool: :teehee: :smart: :clapping: :shake: :rotf: :thwak: that kinda sums up my emotions on the topic. enjoyed it.

That's what I meant in my previous post - the HO manifold intake ports won't line up with the Renix block. i KNOW it won't fit. thats not the question, i was tryin to see if anyone had an idea of how to MAKE it fit, if i can't make it work i'll swap in an HO harness, cause i want 27 horsepower. ;) EDIT: wait, yall are talking about blocks, it will work that way thats not a problem, right now i have a renix intake on a 97 motor so i'm not worried about that side of things, i'm wondering about the throttle body's

yeah they look/work like pure buttocks. i too replaced mine with XJ mirrors, but how did yall get rid of the ugly rivet/mounting plate thingy for them?

hahaa, that was SICK my buddy did a flat-top jump that we used to do often (havent been back there in a while) bout the same incline as that ramp, but flattens out for about 15feet at the top, well... it used to, now it flattens out for 10ft, then drops 2ft and comes back up at the end, catapulted the arse end of his XJ almost makin it come full cartwheel, toolbox flew from the back and nailed the windshield, luckily didn't hit him though pretty scary to see when you're right behind it!

damn, lookin better than i imagined... idk what i was thinking you were gonna do :cheers: keep up the pics

high NOx can also be a side effect of a lean burn condition, but in that case the CO/HC numbers will be pretty low (as Nox increases, HC/CO decrease, fuel ratio is more lean) and the opposite is true for rich burn conditions

i was thinking kindof along the lines of making a TBS that allows the two to align? but i have no idea what i could make it out of.. are you real familiar with both TPSs and other sensors carnuck? i was thinking about that way cause he parted out the jeep so all the parts are there, or could i use the HO tps somehow?

my buddy has an 01 intake and ps pump and all needed things to do a new style intake but i been thinking, how in the world can i get a renix throttle body to mate up to the HO intake style?

You don't want to drive around with the TPS disconnected on an AW4 equipped truck. It really screws up the shifting good point, mine's a stick. :oops: but you don't WANNA drive around like that anyways, odd backfiring issues. ;)

it'll still run without the sensor connected, so don't think your truck will fall apart without it perfect, but it's good to have it adjusted right, i would just drive it normal and check it everyonce in a while and try to get your hands on a throttle body