Oizarod115

also if you believe the problem to be fuel related, try priming the pump first... basically what you do is... when you're ready to start the truck, turn the key to the run position (just before start) and leave it there for 3-5 seconds, turn it off. turn the key back to run again leave it for another 3-5 seconds... now turn to the start position if the truck fires up more quickly after following these steps then your problem is fuel related and can possibly be cured with injectors/check valve, whichever component is losing pressure after shut-down. if the truck acts exactly the same the problem is ignition related and may be due to several things like CPS (crank position sensor) or normal renix starting. (usually takes a few seconds to start, NOT like a chevy where you bump the key and its running already)

nah, as long as you hate its existence it'll last forever just to torture you :yes:

you know you can swap over your current working D35 brakes onto it if you needed too, they will fit fine.

you could have a junk battery too, if you have a good relationship with any repair shops carry it to them and have them check the starting/charging system... takes about 2 minutes with the proper equipment and will save you alot of time and aggravation diagnosing the issue..

i think we need a little bit more information, what exactly do you want to know... you can unbolt the fenders/header panel and bolt up the new one just fine. its the wiring up the front lights that messes people up and you already know that.

sounds like that set is missing the 10mm square drive... "Set includes: 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm hex drive; 7mm, 8mm, 11mm, 13mm square drive"

those mini-vans are notorious for needing sway bar end links and bushings... we've done them to fix knocking in the front end of almost every one we (regularly) service. so i can see that being likely.

I've tried that already a couple times and the part that I grind down just twists until it almost breaks off. sheesh.. the trusty alternative backup is to pull the console, and the shifter out, measure out the case capacity, DRAIN it ALLL out... and fill it up through the top. i've done this before as well. edit: come to think of it i think i broke my "tool" on the way out last time and had to make another one... try cutting the end with the ball off and doing it where its solid metal, that way you don't have the hollow detent ball opening decreasing strength

the pull-a-part here is full of them! at least a hundred cars in their own little section last time i was there

get a cheap, short 3/8" extension and grind it down until it fits, then use the longest ratchet you can find and break her loose! i think mine stays in the glove box... haven't needed it in a while. good luck! :cheers:

I'm in gwinnett, its screwed up round here! my mom was rained in ! trees down and flooded creeks, seen some stuff on the news where houses are underwater! ack! most roads in and out of atlanta were closed by 5 today, wild.

:clapping:

can you swap the coils between trucks to check that?

i still have one hurtle and it's not causing damage, it's just not right... the late model (HO and newer) Throttle position sensor is on a 1-4v scale, the renix one is .82-5v scale. so at WOT my truck thinks it's at 80% throttle (checked with the scan tool, has a readout for throttle % :clapping: ) i'm still pondering how to make it work, it appears the o2 sensor or somebody is making up for the lean condition though cause it's not knocking (and the knock sensor is broken in half :eek: ) in further news, i'm enjoying the flowmaster 50 series and new cat, smells clean out the tailpipe and nice and quiet exhaust.

There's no room for a hammer. There's barely room for the socket. Local shop in town is letting me borrow one of those fancy torx wrenches, and with the head off, it shouldn't be too bad. so what tool did you use on them? i don't understand glad you got it done though!

Post subject: BA10 to NV3550 swap PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 12:39 am hahaha, 45,000miles later and i'm STILL beating on that poor BA10 :rotfl2:

don't waste your time with traditional balancing, do the internal stuff (equal powder, airsoft beads, whatever you feel like) and don't look back. works great and you never have to aggravate another tire-store employee again.

u-joints can also get tight spots so if you pull the shaft be sure to swivel them all directions and check for a tight spot in a cap... this will cause hellacious vibrations

you don't need to remove the water pump to do a head on a jeep if i remember correctly. just the thermostat. but if you want to it'll be accessible at that time.

Nor do I. :hmm: Should have worked. Guess you removed the old idler pulley and routed it as in the diagram? I don't get it mate. But anyhow, glad you got 'er done! :cheers: yeah that pulley got the boot, i was going to keep it since the cherokee belt wouldn't work anyways but after 4 tries i figured i'd give the parts guy a break and just run it removed... if it becomes a problem i'll need the next belt size up to add it back in. :clapping: i'll clean it up some-more, pretty up the vacuum add some wire loom, and then take some pictures.

unfortunately if there is indeed anti-freeze coming out that means you do need a head gasket... is it ALOT or is it just seeping out? it may not be the initial cause of your overheating but still needs to be addressed in the future. my new bottle came out of an old volvo (i'm a volvo mechanic so i used what i had) but i have seen them go hundreds of thousands of miles without any trouble so i felt comfortable using it. some people run a metal bottle i think you can find it on quadratec? correct me somebody. but there are other better options out there as far as pressure bottles go.

maybe that is a bit expensive :chillin:

my buddy runs an 01 motor and i don't know what the difference is but that motor runs like HELL... it was in a 93 for a long time that with 3.55 gears and 35s/automatic would stick right with my 5spd on 29s now he's swapped it into a 99 cherokee that i used to be able to tromp on with its motor and it flies... so it has to be in the motor. anyways!!! THE TRUCK RUNS! got the belt figured out today, i have NO IDEA what the difference is between our pulleys hornbrod but the 99-00 belt was way to short... ended up with a 6pk2025. got the cat bolted up, need to weld in the muffler and get an emissions test on it. :banana: :banana: runs great! idles perfect, doesn't stink!!!! woohoo

i drove it finallY! late model intake swap... COMPLETE. need to weld up the exhaust, new muffler is all thats left to do. it's obnoxious loud right now. :clapping: :banana:

its all good, good luck!