Oizarod115

You can always try that $100 aluminum bottle I've seen linked in other posts. However, I don't know if it's worth it, is anyone here using it? i converted my truck over to a volvo pressure bottle (i'm a volvo mech. so i used what was lying around) the pressure caps/bottles on them are highly reliable just had to step-down in the hose size a little bit, she cools great now. took the jeep bracket and welded the volvo bracket to it.

:rant: you know it sucks that most of us are just guys that share a common interest in jeeps and comanches, and aren't trying to make a quick buck by moving parts or swindling people and we tend to trust people on this site because everyone is so close knit and yet we STILL have these sorts of problems... i guess it just goes to show you can't trust people. :bowdown: to all you guys that pay up on-time, and ship out on-time. and aren't into jeeps for the money. :bowdown: PAY UP PAT! :redX:

:thumbsup: :agree:

yeah, i'm not saying its a bad piece because they make some good power, and don't seem to be as prone to leaks as the FWD 3500s and stuff are but it's not much fun.

ugh... i just got done putting a lower intake gasket on a 4.3 S10 at work... i would NEVER consider this swap. what a turd. (yeah, yeah, yeah, it's all in what you're used to. but i despise that setup)

ooooh aahhhh. crazy 4.0L there.

i'm thinking you can disassemble the cases and swap over the input gear or mix-n-match as you see fit because we swapped everything to 23 spline from 21 when my brother switched jeeps. it's the same amount of work to swap the gear or the sye. IIRC

hey guys... don't be so quick to call BS on the scanning... i scanned my 89 friday with our snap-on MODIS scanner... and it gives alll sorts of nice info you can't get easily elsewhere. you plug into the two yellow-capped ports near the relay center.

nah probly not, just wondering if it was a complete replacement shaft or a hack-n-tap, i odn't remember if that affects changing the input shaft or not.

i'm thinking on your a/c problem its goign to be a vacuum leak and under acceleration in higher gears you're not providing enough vacuum to keep the vent selector pulled into the dash vent position, i'd bet when the a/c goes away its gone to defrost and you're just not feeling it. defrost is the default position for the doors in the box.

what SYE kit is it?

oh yeah, i need to run/plug all the vacuum lines/ports too. keep in mind this is on a renix jeep so none of this stuff plugs together, MANY junkyard trips have been necessary. i'm thinking it will end up with a 2000ish cherokee serpentine belt, and the routing for it too, but leave the idler over by the a/c, might be a little tighter fit than it is on a 2000 but i think it'll work, my buddy has one so i'm gonna see if i can borrow his belt to check it.

some progress pics on the intake swap, things to do: need a little bit more of the HO fuel lines, so i can compression fitting them on the frame-rail and still remove the front half of the lines replace upper and lower rad. hoses (appear original :ack:) intermediate pipe for exhaust should arrive tomorrow, install that, and then put in the new muffler and converter clean up wiring with some tape/loom, go through and plug it all in.

have you checked for spark yet? pull of the easiest spark plug wire you can get to and hold it up to a good ground, maybe about 1/2" away and then have someone run the starter with the key, a spark should jump from the wire to the ground,

this is what you want!

the problem is they changed the polarity on the cluster in 91, if you put a 91+ cluster in a 90- jeep your gas gauge is going to read backwards and other fun issues. you don't HAVE to have the shift indicator if you trust yourself to get it in the right gear, the truck will work fine without it but it's good to have it.

that looks like the renix one, 87-90 the later style one is stamped? metal and is curvy, it doesn't have the raised lines down the middle it has smooth lumps

it would have to be EXTREMEE conditions for that to actually happen, or not enough airflow... generally speaking your truck will be fine until you have a chance to put on back in it... but DO put one in it Asap.

you're going to need a few feet of extension, and a good jack to pull it out on.

cycling the key means turning it to the run position and back to the off position on-off-on-off, in a few second intervals. the valve on the fuel rail looks like the valve on a tire, find the fuel rail and it should have a cap on it, unscrew the cap and depress the schrader (little needle in the middle) if ALOT of fuel shoots out, you're probably good, if a little bit drips out you're not good.

check what they said ^^ then if you don't have fuel at the rail, check power to the pump if you DO have fuel at the rail, check spark by pulling a plug wire off, finding something metal and while a friend cranks it see if the wire will spark to the ground (.5" or so gap should do it)

i'd also like to make sure you're reading the temperature with some sort of accurate gauge. #1 preference being a laser thermometer on the thermostat housing and radiator necks. check to see that you're not being lied to! edit: and one other thing, when you say "hot" are we talking 220 or are we talking boiling over and blowing radiator caps every-time it runs? how hot is hot?

if pull-a-part is a new thing to you prepare to be amazed! best junkyards ever!

i believe the saying goes, "all your base are belong to us" ;) :rotf: been a while. hahahah

truck is sick JB. i love the waggy grill, saw one in the yard the other day but all the rare pieces were missing already. gonna be nice! i finally started fixing my truck up instead of just beating on it and patching it back together! (thanks for the gas tank all those years ago!)