Oizarod115

he probably meant, "the rear bumper is in A great shape." very modern art.

great, hope it works out for the best. and you can at LEAST get 700 back out of it if you had to cut your losses and sell

great looking work on her!

it may be a slight leak, just keep an eye on it. i think the one for a renix is less than 30 bucks.

:cheers: :clapping:

they are most likely asking you for the bolt thread size. the thread size is going to be different from the bolt head size.

No, the solenoid is mounted on the starter motor. The relay is up near the battery. guess i need to read more attentively, i saw big round and ASSuMEd he was tlakin bout the one on the starter motor. don't listen to me guys! :waving:

what do you want bolts for? the exhaust manifold? the throttle body? the thermostat housing? i assume you're talkin about head bolts... in which case you should take the ones you have and match them up with the ones that you order and be sure theyre right.

that is right, if there is gas in that vacuum line, you need a regulator. don't give up on it yet, itll be a good truck when you get it fixed up.

hear hear, i got to replace the fuel tank in my stepbrothers jetta after he chopped the exhaust (turbo car btw) and let it burn a hole through the plastic tank. :rotf:

so just an idle adjustment and some vacuum leaks then? :clapping: :clapping: good deal

That is the one I was thinking about, too. It is in a metal case over by the battery. It's the one I had to replace when it stuck and drove my Comanche off the lift. :eek: -Tom that would be the starter solenoid but you may be right, i don't think we have a separate solenoid/relay like some stuff does. to many volvos for me lately. :oops:

what post is this anyways? EDIT: HOLY BAHJESUS! 3661! yikes i need a life.

poke them in from the backside of the connector, if you have to get some paper clips and shove in there from the back with it plugged in.

o2 sensor normally will not cause bogging or backfiring on our trucks. you still need to check the TPS sensor

physics is one of those classes you either get, or you don't... in my high school physics class i was the only one that seemed to just GET it. everyone else was frustrated at best, and hated the entire thing, but to me it just made sense. all i can say is find the kid in the class that gets it, and make friends with him... and i tried the that's mine i paid for it thing too... (never works btw) I'm 20 so this is fairly fresh to me. just hold tight man, make it happen, and finish it up... you can't even join the military anymore without high school equivalency.

anything that says michelin on it is a good tire IMHO the power/comfort switch is gonna most-likely be an easy junkyard find, and a 20 minute fix with a phillips screw-driver. it changes the shift points on the transmission from low rpm shifts to higher rpm shifts. as for the radiator, steering box, and valve cover gasket... thats up to you and your budget... take fair price for the truck and add the amount of those three into it and then decide whether or not you can afford it. should be a decent truck as long as its not rusted out. i say its up to your budget. it's an oldie but a goodie, but it's going to cost money in repairs.

in the short term, also in the future... swap it with its next-door neighbor... the A/C relay, since that probly doesn't work anyways... ;)

pull the park lights themselves out, and investigate the sockets for corrosion and overall junked-out-ed-ness... they are highly prone to being junked. also they are available in the HELP! section, i think it's a ford light socket, both of mine had to be replaced recently. also, i don't know the price of a flasher unit but it's easy enough to change, if it costs 5$ throw a flasher relay in it and see if it changes anything, you could also switch the hazards/flasher relays and see if that helps any. one more thing, out of curiosity... when the lights don't work, do the turn signal indicators illuminate and stay lit steady?

our trucks don't remember where the crank was then they were shut off, so before it will fire the engine has to read the crankposition sensor first, depending on how far the flywheel tooth was from that sensor you may have a delay in the spark there which would be normal i would guess. (part of why they take so long to start) another thing to check would be with a multimeter, hook up to the throttle position sensor backprobing the signal wire, and check for smooth operation and also for .8ish volts at closed throttle. your TPS should read from .8-.9 at closed throttle, and change SMOOTHLY from that to about 4.8 or so at WOT. if you can't adjust it to get .8 at idle, or it jumps erratically when changing throttle positions, you need one.

when you say that you bought two gaskets the second go-round and installed it... you didn't use both gaskets on it at once did you? i have done thermostats on 4.0Ls both using paper-gaskets and no silicone, and using the gasket with silicone and seen no difference, no silicone is easier and less messy though. if you really can't get it to work, try doing it with the fan and radiator removed for a little breathing room... it comes out in about 30 minutes anyways... might be worth it to get it fixed.

a higher gear seems to break tires loose easier in my experience, because once you get it spinning it will spin REALLY fast in that gear. my truck also has 3.07s and a 5spd, and while it will do EXACTLY what you describe... it is WOEFULLY underpowered even with a 225-70r15 on it. the truck NEEDS lower gears to move, not to spin tires

:agree: :cheers:

a golf cart of all things! it must've had the 'go-baby-go' button on the floor like my grampa's has. :cheers: hope ya get better pat!

.. you're going to need to slow down the progress a little bit otherwise you'll never give it up when he's old enough to drive! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :bowdown: