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Thanks for the information.... I looked underneath then looked for wires but I will check again closer to motor mount DS..... Yeah I'm looking for the ECU type

Does an 89 Renix Comanche have one? Its supposed to be on the drivers side of the block right? Thanks

Thanks! :typing: lol

I have never heard that before....anybody else. I'll check but I though it was not a metric measurment. I'll use the same bolts in the holes (the ones the jeep still has) but I still have to choose between 1/2 in and 7/16 measurments.

ok that makes sense. Should I pull one of the bolts to determine that or do I need to do a different thing. I'm not driving it at the moment so I can pull a bolt without screwing the engine up, any more than it already is.

Sorry Eagle, Maybe my phrasing is off. The 1/2 inch socket and wrench will not go on the bolt head. The 7/16 obviously will not go on. The 5/8 fits perfect. When they are asking me what cylinder head I need the bolt size does not match based on the tool I am fitting to the bolt head. Maybe I'm just mildly retarded LOL :dunce: Ideas?+

I'm getting ready to replace the cylinder head and one of the questions that they (at O'reilly)ask is 7/16 or 1/2 bolt size when they are ordering the replacement cylinder head. Whats throwing me is that the 5/8 fits the bolts the head is mounted by. So I'm guessing that I have to have the 1/2 inch bolts right? I don't know why the 1/2 inch doesn't match the specs but maybe I have a sh*tty socket and wrech set. The other question I have is does a 89 renix jeep have a Coolant Temperature Sensor on block? Thanks for trying to help me out.

The options I get to choose from on the 89 commanche bolt size are 7/16 or 1/2"..... The half is too snug for the bolt and my 5/8 works perfect (WTF?).... It seems like I would order the 1/2 bolts and be ok right but how can I be sure on this one? I've checked it several times now and am more baffled than ever..... Opinions please? Thanks

thanks geo snow...? you can have all you want/ where do you get another CPS?.... NAPA?

just curious, I thought they did but there's a foot of wet snow on the ground and I don't really want to get wet. LOL (And why would checker auto not carry a replacement CPS, or be able to order one? Is it a dealer direct sort of thing?) What are the symptoms of a CPS going bad? Thanks for the replies

LOL, I'm not going to rev it up. My mechanic did the compression test on cylinder 1 and we could hear air escaping (through the exhaust we thought). All other cylinders had normal compresion given the age of the original engine (223k). My mech said to replace it - it would be cheaper for me. The part that was so puzzling, at least to me, is why it would run fine for about five minutes, I could rev it all the way up and shift and rev again, and then it would start backfiring into the TBI when I hit the gas, and it hit on that cylinder. (Just recently I fould an abrasion/burn hole in the PCV line where nothing contacts it. So the air fuel was too rich?) So I have the valve cover off and I'm debating just putting it back together for now, going the replacement route (going for a new engine), or it is going to be worth my time to explore further? Things I know (be nice lol) 1 Timing chain not ever replaced 2 truck was not running, had original wires and coil when I got it and I replaced them- it ran beautifully for 5 months and got 33 mpg (thats why I love the little guy and would spend money and time on it) 3 The PO changed out the lower part of the distributor, I replaced the cap. 4 the plugs are not fouled 5 engine never rebuilt 6 new engine with warranty is going to be a 1000.00 ish 7 I hate the idea of scrapping a car and going out and spending 12k on a newer one without any guarantees... I will replace the engine or fix it. Yeah I'm stubborn :thumbsup: but I don't want to be a complete :dunce: What do you think? :huh???: Timing issue. Engine Fubar'd. Just replace it and quit taking up the forums time.... (frankly probably the most certain course.) Thanks for your input, I will post pics on Wed, that my soonest day off.

Thanks for the replies I appreciate the great information!

Thanks for the advice. I will continue my mis-adventure and get back with some picks :yes: and preferably with all of my digits.

I am planning on replacing the engine so I figured that it wouldn't matter if I cracked the cover and took a look at the valves on the off chance there was a simple and obvious fix that would get my truck back on the road temporarily (and give me a manly sense of mechanical prowess- which, you have to understand, I am a writer :typing: not a gearhead so it would be neat if I could feel competent working on the simple 4 cyl I have) My 4 banger has been backfiring through the TBI so I am looking at the exhuast valve as a probable culprit. I think it has a rough spot where the valve sits (on the underside of the head) but I don't beleive there is any way that I can check this from the top of the engine with the cylinder head still mounted. Maybe I am wrong. At this point I am doing this because I want to get more comfortable under the hood and since I am replacing the motor, and the truck isn't essential at the moment, I can't really screw up alot of stuff. Looking at my Haynes it says I can idle the truck with the valve cover off- which I really can't believe (section 2-8), it says you can feel if there is a problem with the valve while it is running at idle with finger pressure on top of the armature. This sounds like a good way to blow oil all over my engine bay (and me) not to mention a good way for a unskilled but curious apprentice in the mechanical arts to really cause some mayhem... So I'm avoiding it. I may pull the cylinder head just to see what the underside looks like, I am already part way there... :dunce: BTW is the fan supposed to be able to freely turn? Is it clutch driven or something? If anybody wants me to I will take some pics tomorrow.

I'll get a pic up, I was curious about how the PCV affected engine function. Thanks for the reply!