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Thanks for the information.... I looked underneath then looked for wires but I will check again closer to motor mount DS..... Yeah I'm looking for the ECU type

Does an 89 Renix Comanche have one? Its supposed to be on the drivers side of the block right? Thanks

Thanks! :typing: lol

I have never heard that before....anybody else. I'll check but I though it was not a metric measurment. I'll use the same bolts in the holes (the ones the jeep still has) but I still have to choose between 1/2 in and 7/16 measurments.

ok that makes sense. Should I pull one of the bolts to determine that or do I need to do a different thing. I'm not driving it at the moment so I can pull a bolt without screwing the engine up, any more than it already is.

Sorry Eagle, Maybe my phrasing is off. The 1/2 inch socket and wrench will not go on the bolt head. The 7/16 obviously will not go on. The 5/8 fits perfect. When they are asking me what cylinder head I need the bolt size does not match based on the tool I am fitting to the bolt head. Maybe I'm just mildly retarded LOL :dunce: Ideas?+

I'm getting ready to replace the cylinder head and one of the questions that they (at O'reilly)ask is 7/16 or 1/2 bolt size when they are ordering the replacement cylinder head. Whats throwing me is that the 5/8 fits the bolts the head is mounted by. So I'm guessing that I have to have the 1/2 inch bolts right? I don't know why the 1/2 inch doesn't match the specs but maybe I have a sh*tty socket and wrech set. The other question I have is does a 89 renix jeep have a Coolant Temperature Sensor on block? Thanks for trying to help me out.

The options I get to choose from on the 89 commanche bolt size are 7/16 or 1/2"..... The half is too snug for the bolt and my 5/8 works perfect (WTF?).... It seems like I would order the 1/2 bolts and be ok right but how can I be sure on this one? I've checked it several times now and am more baffled than ever..... Opinions please? Thanks

thanks geo snow...? you can have all you want/ where do you get another CPS?.... NAPA?

just curious, I thought they did but there's a foot of wet snow on the ground and I don't really want to get wet. LOL (And why would checker auto not carry a replacement CPS, or be able to order one? Is it a dealer direct sort of thing?) What are the symptoms of a CPS going bad? Thanks for the replies

LOL, I'm not going to rev it up. My mechanic did the compression test on cylinder 1 and we could hear air escaping (through the exhaust we thought). All other cylinders had normal compresion given the age of the original engine (223k). My mech said to replace it - it would be cheaper for me. The part that was so puzzling, at least to me, is why it would run fine for about five minutes, I could rev it all the way up and shift and rev again, and then it would start backfiring into the TBI when I hit the gas, and it hit on that cylinder. (Just recently I fould an abrasion/burn hole in the PCV line where nothing contacts it. So the air fuel was too rich?) So I have the valve cover off and I'm debating just putting it back together for now, going the replacement route (going for a new engine), or it is going to be worth my time to explore further? Things I know (be nice lol) 1 Timing chain not ever replaced 2 truck was not running, had original wires and coil when I got it and I replaced them- it ran beautifully for 5 months and got 33 mpg (thats why I love the little guy and would spend money and time on it) 3 The PO changed out the lower part of the distributor, I replaced the cap. 4 the plugs are not fouled 5 engine never rebuilt 6 new engine with warranty is going to be a 1000.00 ish 7 I hate the idea of scrapping a car and going out and spending 12k on a newer one without any guarantees... I will replace the engine or fix it. Yeah I'm stubborn :thumbsup: but I don't want to be a complete :dunce: What do you think? :huh???: Timing issue. Engine Fubar'd. Just replace it and quit taking up the forums time.... (frankly probably the most certain course.) Thanks for your input, I will post pics on Wed, that my soonest day off.

Thanks for the replies I appreciate the great information!

Thanks for the advice. I will continue my mis-adventure and get back with some picks :yes: and preferably with all of my digits.

I am planning on replacing the engine so I figured that it wouldn't matter if I cracked the cover and took a look at the valves on the off chance there was a simple and obvious fix that would get my truck back on the road temporarily (and give me a manly sense of mechanical prowess- which, you have to understand, I am a writer :typing: not a gearhead so it would be neat if I could feel competent working on the simple 4 cyl I have) My 4 banger has been backfiring through the TBI so I am looking at the exhuast valve as a probable culprit. I think it has a rough spot where the valve sits (on the underside of the head) but I don't beleive there is any way that I can check this from the top of the engine with the cylinder head still mounted. Maybe I am wrong. At this point I am doing this because I want to get more comfortable under the hood and since I am replacing the motor, and the truck isn't essential at the moment, I can't really screw up alot of stuff. Looking at my Haynes it says I can idle the truck with the valve cover off- which I really can't believe (section 2-8), it says you can feel if there is a problem with the valve while it is running at idle with finger pressure on top of the armature. This sounds like a good way to blow oil all over my engine bay (and me) not to mention a good way for a unskilled but curious apprentice in the mechanical arts to really cause some mayhem... So I'm avoiding it. I may pull the cylinder head just to see what the underside looks like, I am already part way there... :dunce: BTW is the fan supposed to be able to freely turn? Is it clutch driven or something? If anybody wants me to I will take some pics tomorrow.

I'll get a pic up, I was curious about how the PCV affected engine function. Thanks for the reply!

Okay, so I know the line itself is hollow but the hole that was worn though just seems odd, there's nothing around it that should affect it like that.

I was looking at the TBI in my 89 manche when I noticed that the PCV has a hole in it. My question is what would this lack of PCV do to my motor? Thanks in advance for expanding my manche knowledge!

Thanks for the reply, What I am trying to do is make sure when I install the newer engine that the fuel pump isn't going to cause me a headache or possibly some other problem that I did not recognize. With these trucks its hard to say sometimes. I know its foolish to try and second guess what may occur with a transplant but I wanted to make it as clean as possible when it happens. Sometimes it pays to ask around. Yeah I know its used up at 230k but it was doing that good on gas before it started stuttering, one of the reasons I love the little truck. Maybe its the gearing who knows. Your right about the timing chain adjuster. I am considering having the 2.5 that I am taking out rebuilt, that is why I was talking about timing chain replacement stuff. Didn't mean to confuse.

So here's what I have; 89 2wd Pioneer 2.5 (4 cyl) Renix with 230 k on the odometer. Its only doing local runs down the block and back to the casa because of its running issue. My issue: It cranks and idles and runs fine. But after three to five minutes the engine (when under load) will miss, sometimes it will miss 7-8 times, (it sounds like tack-tack-tack-tack). When the fuel gets back to the cylinders (while under load) it runs fine for a few minutes or maybe one or two minutes, or maybe just a few seconds, but when you try to accelerate it often misses again. When I let it idle it runs fine (it will do so for however long I let it run), but when its warm I can give it gas and 1 of every three times (guestimate) it will miss and sounds like it is backfiring into the tbi. I took it to my mechanic who did a compression test and told me that my #1cylinder has an exhaust leak- he recommended that I find a newer/new engine and transplant it or remove the valve cover and try and free up the exhaust valve. He did not recommend replacing the cylinder head due to the mileage on the engine. My situation I am in the process of getting a newer (4 cyl out of an 87 manche)engine sent to me. I wanted to make sure before I put in a newer engine that my fuel pump is up to par and not the cause my problem, or going to cause me additional problems. I plan on doing a pressure test on the fuel pump (whenever the parts store gets a fuel pressure gauge in ). I think that the timing chain needs to be redone and the emissions light is on so the 02 sensor is likely not helping things out. When the truck wasn't doing this it was getting about 33 MPG (with the emission light on). I think it could be something clogging the fuel filter as well (Probably in tank). So comanche gurus I ask for your wisdom and guidance. What do you think I should do to get my manche healthy again? Anybody else have these issues? Thank in advance for the replies

Thanks for the info on the 2.5. I am curious about the improvements to horsepower as they affect economy when it goes from TBI to the improved MPI. With TBI I was getting 33 MPG on the HWY. I like not going to gas stations...

Thanks for the information. I didn't know if anything changed during that year with the Chrysler buyout and the whole renix combo.. I just saw diffrent casting numbers and bolt sizes and thought there could be major differences. :thumbsup:

Bolt size is 7/16. 89 Renix TBI 4cylinder. On the exhaust manifold is states the firing order and "XJ". There is an small metallic tag that looks like it is stamped that says '403'-. Any guesses as to what cylinder head I have? :huh???: I am asking because the exhaust valve is sticking in the #1 cylinder, we could hear the air escaping in the exhaust when we checked it) and while I have worked out a replacement engine I would like to know what the proper cylinder head is if I choose to replace it or have somone locally recondition it. I have not yet cracked the valve cover to check on the issue. The engine still runs, was getting 33 mpg, but when it gets warm it misfires under load. Thanks in advance!

Well with Eagle, Motion, and everyone else weighing in obviously I was wrong about the housing for the lights.... :dunce: LOL I thought those parts were transferrable... :grrrr: Life goes on the LED Bulbs would work ok.. What other makes shared a tailight housing interchangeable with the Comanche tailight housing or was it unique to the manche?

I do not see any reason that they would not be compatable.... I mean the Cherokee wiring is virtually identicle to comanche wiring in the applicable years... and with the years these fit spanning 9 years of manufacture they -should- be compatable. I've got a little bodywork to do on my pass rear underneath my light housing (PO driving by braille I guess :mad: ) so I may go this route eventually. Or I may buy LED replacements for my bulbs....I saw those on ebay or at the auto parts store.... I found this on amazon this site also had replacement LED for the Bulb Configuration http://www.GoRecon.com Imagine how mut wattage that would free up in your vehicle! :thumbsup:

:dunno: I don't know anything about this manufacturer but I do know some folks are looking for this type of item.... there are 5 different types. For 219.00 a set. http://www.andysautosport.com/jeep/1987_1996_cherokee/lights/tail_lights/in_pro_car_wear/ Happy new year! :USAflag: