Oizarod115

Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.

55 MPH is the critical point for shimmy caused by tire balance. When it happens, can you keep driving, or do you have to stop the truck to end the wobble? If you can keep driving, it is NOT death wobble. There's a reason it's called that ... identifying the problem as definite DEATH WOBBLE is really important in trying to fix it. Death wobble is like being inside of a paint can shaker, and it won't stop shaking until you either stop or almost stop.

:needpics: i'll kick this one off for you.

used it as a coat hanger and then went and hopefully got ASE certified.

yeah it's a tiny allen. glad you got it.

No, that is not correct. There is also a thermal switch in the driver's side radiator tank that turns on the fan if the temperature gets above a certain level. I don't recall what the magic number is ... I think it's either 225 or 240 degrees. Might be ON at 240 and OFF at 225. that would explain why mine has never run ;) if you remember from WAY back, i did everything i could to get it to run at 210 and then figured out my gauge was reading 50* on the hot side :idea: so my truck was never near 225 or 240 before i wired it up manually

i circled where the screw is in the picture, you can get it with a small allen from the opposite side of that little armature.

the renix throttle DOES have an adjustment screw for the idle. it's a very small allen head and it doesn't really look like a screw but it is!! i have no good pictures but its a short little screw thing that the throttle rod actually stops on. and can be adjusted with everything together while the truck is running even.

So possible that someone replaced the rad with one that it wasn't setup for and so it doesn't have the sensor? So now the question is, how hard would it be to wire a switch so I could turn the fan on/off manually? should be easy. all you will need to do is tap into the wire that latches the fan relay on the drivers fender. send power to that relay, it'll latch and in turn send power to the fan. the factory did most of the work for you.

stickers=5hp a piece=2 seconds faster at strip=beats g6... right? :cheers:

right you are, it looks like there is a plug in the hole the sensor goes in.

i believe on earlier models it only runs with A/C but i could be wrong. you could start by swapping the relay with something else

have you checked the fuse box and the slot for the inst/tail fuse for corrosion? my dash lights checked out the other night and a slight wiggle of the fuse was enough to get everything back again.

Option 3 is the most realistic in my current position right now...

It was cool'ish, but it pretty much sounds like that all of time, hot/cold or otherwise! if you have the money/time for an overhaul and don't mind spending it, i see no reason not to. Even without the noise you're hearing, the motor is 20 years old and i'm sure could use going through. if you're not in the position to overhaul it, or don't want to; i don't see that it's to much to worry about. at this point you could check oil pressure and possibly do a pump, rod bearings and a rear main just dropping the pan which would cover your bottom end and should be easy-ish. third option would be let it eat til it quits. chances are its been doing it for years and will continue on for years before it goes kaput.

also if the engine was cold in the video some of that could be attributed to cold slap of the piston.

sounds like a 4.0L... if it ain't knockin it ain't running. seriously though, the machine shop our shop uses' owner has a 4.0 cherokee said it's knocked since brand new, and it now has 200,000 on the clock. some of them do, some of them don't... i wouldn't worry about it TO much, and know that the potential of a replacement junkyard motor is VERY likely to do the same.

also, watch out for wiring on the coolant temp sensor on the side of the block, and the o2 sensor. you'll need to make supports for the wiring so that they don't lie on the exhaust... :oops: and you'll need fuel lines from an HO, you can get the front part of the lines from an XJ (more easily found), and just splice them with your renix lines using (5/16th?) compression fittings. you may also need the PS pump setup as i think even the early HO intakes use different mounting for the pump than the renix's large bracket. (get both high and low pressure hoses off the new style if you need the pump as you will need to mix and match lines) after that the late model intake is an easy swap... check out my thread here http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17821

apply manifold vacuum directly to the egr valve manually (putting a vacuum line from intake-it direct) and if the idle gets REALLY BAD or the truck dies completely then the actual valve itself operates

I'm sure the gas was bad... but that couldn't be just it. Bad gas doesn't cause a no spark. So hopefully it was bad gas and a bad cps! ha. yah forgot all about that by the end of the page :chillin: time for bed.

the blowby can hopefully be fixed with a valve cover and some cleaning but it is possible that the engine is WTFO (wore out ;) ) bad piston rings can cause this problem also by pushing compression into the oil and spewing it out the vent.

hopefully it's just bad gas!

no, it's not a bolt on swap. you will need an adapter to mate your TPS to the new throttle body (hesco makes one) also, -HO exhaust manifold and intermediate pipe (or block off the EGR port in the renix manifold (but the renix manifold is highly inefficient when compared to the later ones and probably cracked anyways) -your IAC will bolt in the HO throttle body so thats good -you will need to lengthen the wiring for your intake air temp sensor or drill/tap a hole for it -all the vacuum is different -depending on the year of the head you will need an HO thermostat housing for you temp sensor and lengthen the wiring. -fuel rail for the HO and the fuel lines for an HO its a job for sure. i just completed my adaptation and the only reason i did it is because someone previously swapped my motor to an HO and it wasn't right with the improper manifolds.

rebuilt the wiper linkage... best 5 bucks ever spent

get to work.