Oizarod115

i feel your pain CW, my ONLY body damage was caused by an offcamber slide into trees where i could not get off them. :cry: have you thought off some 4-5" wide rock rails behind the wheel openings? that wouldn't help for right above the arch though

well if thats all your problem is then IDFK buddy... my truck runs 7-800 or so cold, then when it gets warm it jumps to 1200 and then will settle (after several minutes) back to about 900-1000. i have NO idea why.. before i swapped out the intake and did all that crap it was opposite, it used to idle normal then get real low on occasion like 4-500 but never any lower. i think it's jst one of those renix things. :dunno:

i also have one on my stick but its in the manche... i bought the kit from rubicon express... cost 32$ to the door, seemed pretty reasonable. its just a bicycle shifter like CW said but for ease the RE kit works well.

i LOVE the bolstered buckets... but i'm also a very thin guy at 6' 130lb. so maybe that's why... they just keep you so centered it's like a racing seat... i can't stand the flat backed seats in my volvo and... do you just post pictures to make us jealous or is it really to emphasize points? juuust wondering... :wavey: SOMEONE GET THAT MAN A SAMMICH!!!! :eek: :help: :help:

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm :D

a low idle or running poorly isn't normally associated with the cutting off of a CPS dying, it's more like someone shut the switch off. sounds more like IAC or plugs

check fuel pressure yet? check your tps for adjustment, if its WAY out and can't be adjusted to spec you need one. with it idling you can spray ether or another combustible spray at the intake and check for vacuum leaks ANYWHERE there is rubber or a gasket with air in it. do you have a catalytic converter? possible that it's clogged up and causing the truck to have to much backpressure.

did you check to make sure the truck isn't cycling back and forth between loops wih the o2 sensor plugged up? it really sounds to me like your o2 sensor and related systems are operating correctly. normally if you don't see a rapid change in voltage then it isn't working. bookmark this link here http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm and then go to it and look at o2 sensor description and testing.

your o2 sensor is supposed to bounce back and forth rapidly, it goes Rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean. its not possible for the computer to keep the engine at a constant 14.7:1 ratio so instead it bounces back and forth and it averages out to the perfect ratio. thats what your truck is supposed to do. AND the renix does not use the o2 sensor before the engine gets out of warm up mode. if you read the sensor voltage in warm-up mode it will be 5v constant.

WOW :eek: that trailer looks BRAND NEW!

i LOVE the bolstered buckets... but i'm also a very thin guy at 6' 130lb. so maybe that's why... they just keep you so centered it's like a racing seat... i can't stand the flat backed seats in my volvo and... do you just post pictures to make us jealous or is it really to emphasize points? juuust wondering... :wavey:

NICE one at east Atl location too, i got a beautiful rear bumper off of it

you sure 6800 isnt the GVWR? she's not so bad off! :cheers:

that was eventually released as the ELIMINATOR right? so i can only assume it's very similar to the 91-2 eliminator models

the easiest way to check EGR is to have the truck idling and apply vacuum to the valve to open it. if the idle drops runs like crap, or even dies the valve itself is working properly... if there is no change the valve itself is INOP. thats where i would start.

i wish i had seen this earlier, rockauto was wrong on their price. that was the price for an HO regulator. the renix piece is ~20 bucks at most local auto parts stores.

i actually meant that i was checking power directly on the pins in the plug from the truck's harness... not back-probing the sensor for that one... but yeah, wireless electricity sounds like magic :eek:

passed emissions, and stripped down my new factory rear bumper, straightened a few little spots, cleaned it up and painted it low-gloss black, hit all the plastic with a vinyl/plastic black, and re-assembled. turned out the paints match PERFECTLY. and it looks beautiful.. goin on the truck tomorrow hopefully.

nice one guys!

wth did he say?

mine wasn't bad at all, just removing the egr tube is the hard part, gotta do that first. other than that a 14 wrench, and a handful of wobble extensions are the tools to have

you lost me.. i'm thinking of vinyls but that's not where you're at... :nuts:

the senders in the renix trucks like to lie, mine read about 60* hot for several years (more than one headache over that) check the temp with a laser-thermometer and if the gauge seems off i'd be willing to bet its the sender not the gauge. the oil pressure gauges also have issues because they're in a good spot to get whacked when removing the oil filter, and sometimes they just fail for no reason. the one in my truck is intermittent, normally sits on 50 and never moves, then will begin working for a while again.

good thing it's a manual then eh? :cheers: but true! thanks for the website, i adapted the TPS to work on the HO throttle, and got that working well. i also had to replace the o2 sensor because the one i put in 2 years ago already had a bad heater! :headpop: but it passed emissions after that with flying colors, even with no egr (but i had figured it would since the later ones don't need EGR)

thanks guys, just to follow up in-case of a future search, o2 sensor has 5v on the sensor wire until the truck reaches closed loop and then it switches on, bouncing back and forth. also, the truck will NOT enter closed loop without a working heater in the o2 sensor (at least mine wouldn't) and the coolant temp must be over 85* C (185* F) passed emissions today with flying colors, putting damn near clean air out the tail-pipe. :banana: