64 Cheyenne

Ya,that's my donor XJ, when it gives up it's engine and front axle It will no longer be used for storage, it'll be gone, I'll have the county come get it, maybe sooner if the city starts complaining again.

I'm a shade tree mechanic, work and tool storage has always been a problem. Not any more, picked up this trailer today about 5 miles from my house. It's an old office trailer, 33 ft long, has 2x4 walls, DX AC, swamp cooler,electric forced air furnace, built in 110v refrigerator. There aren't any water tanks (never were or intended), has bedroom/private space upstairs (my daughter has already taken "dibs" on this), built in closets and storage. I have some maintenance to be done before I can really use the space but so what? The floor needs repair, the door needs to be fixed,and I can't wait to move in. I sold my old trailer to my Uncle for fifty bucks it was a13 ft 62 Aris. The trailer was made in 85, probably got dragged all over this region in the last 20 years, it still seems to be in pretty good shape. I was told the trailer was custom made to be used in the oil fields of N.Dakota. Only bad thing is if I ever want it moved, I don't think either of my MJs will be up to the task :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: . If I ever wanted to change directions on this IE: trash it from the frame up, I still got a stout 5th wheel that I could make a car/toy hauler,or maybe a hybrid camper toy hauler with a pop up or maybe shorten the upper rear structure to have a flatbed rear........... I could put the MJ that I paid a hundred bucks for back there.....Endless possibilities And all for only $375.00 plus $50 to move it :banana:

You gotta be able to wrench a little bit. 2 door buckets are convenient. Direct bolt in swap, no. If you can't wrench even just a little, or don't have the patience, and you can't bust a move to make it happen, maybe try snapping your fingers, hop up and down on one foot, say abracadabra, and poof! It might happen, I think.

can't a person use a Ford style one?

Who cares, that thing is Cool! When can I buy one, I don't care how much it costs, I want one!

:USAflag: The college that I attend put on a Veterans Day dinner (lunch) for all Vet's,students and faculty that served. Where I'm from It's a high honor to have served in the armed forces. Makes me feel good that there are those in our communities that care and are willing to sacrifice their time to have served us a meal and to tell us "thank you". To me, it's about those that didn't get to come home, lest not be forgotten.

C101? Sounds familiar, where is this connector located? Reason I'm asking is that I was planning on replacing the wiring out of the 87 with one out of a 89 XJ,so I'm interested also.

Replaced the pukegoat, and 231 with another from my donor XJ. Rebuilt front and rear driveshafts. Replaced rear slider with another. Before: After: Did a DIY project post on the backglass install here:http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19487

When I got this 88 MJ (Megan Joy) the middle slider window was broken. I would have just replaced the center piece of glass but I couldn't see any way of doing this without pulling and replacing the whole window anyway. This is what I did to fix it: Removed the rubber gasket like this, top and bottom, from the middle, no damage, you have to do the top corners first as the bottoms are a little tight, with the tops loose, you get a little more play in getting the bottom corners loose. Through the corners. Gasket out, undamaged. BTW the only "tools" I used to get the gasket out with are the ones I'm typing with. I've removed three of them this way. I used a piece of bicycle brake cable about 3' long, unraveled a couple of strands out of it to give it some 'Bite." Then fished it through one of the lower corners where I pushed a skinny screwdriver through to make kind of a "pilot hole" grabbed both ends with vice grips, sawed all the way around till the window was out. Couple things to note: the frame from the slider makes it kind of difficult to get around the glass channels, top, and bottom, but not impossible. A regular non slider back glass would come out much easier. Extreme care must be taken to not damage the headliner or the plastic sill piece below the back window if you don't remove them, I didn't. Next I prepped the replacement window, new exterior paint, tint on the inside. Next I installed the rubber gasket around the window, used a few small dabs of contact cement midways along the long sides to keep the gasket from trying to come off when your hanging the window. Then I removed most of the old urethane sealant, you don't have to remove it completely, just make it smooth. I then used some alcohol on a rag to remove the dirt and dust, primed the frame and the glass with this: Then I put this sealant on the glass, took pretty much the whole tube, laid down a bead about 3/8" to 1/2" dia all the way around. Next was the install, opened the slider part way for someplace to hang on to, set it in place, pressed all around to "seat" it. Afterwords I put the camper cap back on, then "procured" one of them "noodle" swimming things from my daughter(you can see it in the picture), cut six 4" pieces from it placed them between the window and the cap to apply pressure till the sealant cured. Done deal.

My friend and his dad both own MJs, both 4 cyl 2wd, one is a 86 the other an 87. They are both doing this swap, the 86 is requiring considerably more work. In 86 MJs didn't come with the 4.0, they had to clearance the firewall with a BFH,swap wiring harnesses, they also had to rebuild the radiator core support. On the 87 it's pretty much a bolt in, but the wiring swap is still required. Having a complete donor vehicle is the easiest way of getting it done, as you'll have pretty much everything you'll need except for the rear DS. I should have pics of G. Sr's truck sometime next week, they are letting me post on their behalf, seeing as I got them started on this Comanche thing, they were XJ guys before they met me and didn't even know about Comanches. Oh Yeah, Go for it! You'll be happy you did.

:USAflag:Freedom,Democracy Thank You! My cousin lost a leg, don't remember which one, pushed the clutch with his left crutch, when he drove you would have never known that he was an amputee, he was so adapted to having one leg that he never used his prosthetic, most of the time never even used his crutches unless he had to.

When I used to care, I had my status hidden. I was fearful of those who know more than me on some particular topic would "flame" me for me sharing my 2cents and making me feel like an idiot, then I realized that if I don't participate, then someone at sometime might not be getting a questioned answered that they desperately needed. After all there isn't a person in world who has "all the answers", so now my status is not hidden, I share when I can, don't sweat if I don't have "the correct answer" because either way I'll learn something in the end, and I just might be helping someone who needs it.

Today I pulled a slider from one of my "steals" AKA a killer deal. I used a piece of steel cable, it was about 3/16" to start with, I unwound a "bunch" about 3ft. then I took one more strand off of that (so that it would cut better), fished it through the side, held the ends of the wires with vice grips, had the window out in about twenty minutes. Time permitting, I might be able to do a DIY of the install this weekend. With pics of course.

:agree:

:agree:

420?

Snag a handfull out of the JY. :yes:

Searched Utube for Sno-Runner,now I know what a Sno-Runner is! Looks kind of fun,I'd jump on given the chance!

Sno-Runner? :needpics: And more info

Seen the inside of that bed, talk about rode hard......

I got a bed I'd give you for free, over having to fix that.

Best way to remove the gasket is to start from the middle, pry it up with your fingers, finesse it around the corners. I learned this the hard way, I cut up a good gasket to remove a slider. :wall: Then I used a window remover, looks like a handle with an L shaped blade, has a real short piece of cable attached to a T handle, sorry, don't have a pic, but they are real common. Then you work the blade behind the frame, from the outside pull with the T handle on the cable, cut the gasket. Two tips, don't try this in the cold, and the tool is used to "cut" don't use it in a "rocking" motion or to pry with, DAMAGE CAN BE THE RESULT.

I would check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail first, probably after it sat for 10-15 minutes. If that was good, I would either unplug/plug the CPS, see if that helps, or replace the CPS.

hornbrod, what about the resister, could this be part of his problem?

shim top or bottom kicks the back of the door up or down. First, If it was me, I'd make sure to replace the torks bolts in the hinges with real bolts, makes door adjustment super easy, then push the bottom of the door all the way in closest to the body and go from there.