dasbulliwagen

I had no figment issues either with the Melling HV pump I installed on my Grand Waggy 4.2.

I have this problem with my 2012 jk sport. I have had a check engine light on non stop since I bought it. 54,000 miles on it now. They never gave me a straight answer about the light until now. Just was told about the left head issue and parts are on order now all under warranty. I believe they extended the warranty on this issue until 150k. SO if you haven't done so get this fixed. Or put 148k on it and get a fresh head and gasket then...Have them put three new spark plugs in the right head while they are doing the job. That way you won't have to worry about a tune up or just half a tune up when the time comes. The new left head comes with plugs in it already. You'll have to pay for the right three but it won't be much relatively speaking. Just don't let them charge you the full tune up labor amount. 3 to 5 tenths should cover it being tied to the rest of the job.

I was going to say the 727 is probably really an A999 if it was originally behind a 258. At least thats what was in the Waggy I had... 258, A999, NP228

"Clattering and Knocking" ??? I was going to say get a high volume pump, maybe a Melling, and use diesel engine oil 15w40, but if you have what is generally considered real knocking, it may be too late. Again, what is your milage and your normal driving style? And is yours auto or manual? Hopefully we can help you out better with a little more info.

You should be able to find the old man emu stabilizer cheaper somewhere else if you search. Quadratech isn't known for their low prices.

The 12 model and early 13 models have an extended warranty on the left cylinder head assy. If you ever get a cyl 2, 4, or 6 misfire you'll probably get a new head... That is if it hasn't been done already. Even then some of the early repairs were done with the same part number so they can go bad again. Besides that you'll need to keep an eye on the oil cooler leaking underneath the intake manifold and the oil pressure sensor going bad throwing a check engine light. The 5 speed Mercedes auto trans is a decent one so you shouldn't see any issues there. I know you guys are going to love it.

You should give definite consideration to the Mazda 6. I'm a Mazda dealer tech and can say that I wouldn't mind owning one myself. They're better looking than the Toyota too. Hyundai Sonata's are nice as well. We bought a new Hyundai Elantra last year and my wife absolutely loves it. They have come a long way. I know the Toys are decent as well but to me its just boring. Let us know what you end up buying.

It might be a good starting point for you but as soon as you get into school and use some real welders you won't like the flux core anymore. I saved and bought a Hobart 140 and a CO2/Argon tank and love it. I would consider my Hobart setup a bare minimum for someone who wants decent project welding on a regular basis.

The Hyundai trans was an easy pick due to the fact that Chrysler Hyundai Mitsubishi and BMW share the world engine platform. The base engine short block in Chrysler 1.8 2.0 and 2.4 is a shared platform with those other companies with what I assume is a shared bell housing pattern. Which makes the Hyundai trans an easy adaptation. Our Chrysler tech trainers say that Hyundai was quite happy to share their trans and all software with us. I think they even give us access to Hyundai factory tech data though I've never ventured over there myself. So far it seems like a good trans. I just saw the other day that they are being put into Dodge Darts as well. At least until they can put the horrible 9 speed into it.

The Pat is OK now that it has the 6 speed Hyundai auto trans in it. The CVT that they used to have made them junk. The manual trans is junk as well.

My 86 2.8 5 speed donor truck had 4:10's in it.

48-46206

New toy arrived in the mail today. Looks like a well made piece. Might be a couple years before I get to use it though. My current manifold is leaking though... Maybe I'll use it sooner than I think. Its a aFe twisted steel header in full stainless. Not for use with EGR though.

I hate it. Just because you can do something like that doesn't mean you should. It was built for shock value and nothing else. Stupid.

If the rest of the truck is solid then yes its worth it. I have over 200000 on a Jasper rebuild that the previous owner put in my truck. Still running strong. These engines have the same longevity as the 4.0. It's all good.

Yes 4 bangerjp is mostly wranglers but that's not what its about. Its about the 2.5. Some more info on these cranks would be great as well. I'm planning a performance build in the near future and would like more info on this. Is that crank the one 505 performance uses or do they offset grind the rod journals to get the added stroke?

Are you sure a GM crank will go right into an AMC block? Some people get the pre 84 GM 2.5 mixed up with the 84 and later AMC 2.5. I just want to clarify this. I don't want to get excited over nothing. I've done some preliminary research on the AMC 2.5 and have never seen this mod mentioned. On www.4bangerjp.com I've never seen this mentioned. And if it would be mentioned anywhere it would be there.

Buy a 4.0 XJ donor complete and swap it all over. You'll need to cut and weld the core support to swap the rad and maybe massage the firewall s little but I think that's your best option for power reliability and cost with minimal fabrication. All you'll need made up is a rear driveshaft.

See if you can find my build thread " Comanche limited " there will be several ideas there. I also have an 87 2.5. I've had off or swapped just about every part on this thing except for the engine the bench seat the gas tank and the leaf springs. Everything else has been swapped in or massaged. Also check out www.4bangerjp.com lots of good engine info there. Good luck.

They are an uglier heavier version of the Grand Cherokee. But I'm sure you already know that. I'm always leery of vehicles that have that many miles being financed. You never know once you're over 100000 miles what repairs might be needed and having to fix high dollar stuff on top of making payments. Price don't seem bad. If that was on our lot they'd probably be asking closer to $20000 for it. If you think its what you want then go for it. At least it doesn't have the 3.7 in it. Its way too heavy for that motor. It has 2 open recalls. One to reprogram the transfer case and one for the ignition switch that doesnt have parts available yet. It was originally sold out of North Carolina to a private security company.

I've heard of people installing a Cherokee tank in place of the spare tire. Might be something to research as an auxiliary unit if you can relocate your spare.

Keep an eye on the frame around the steering box. I've seen them break there before.

Kudo... Have you ever pulled the HVAC box of of an mj or xj? I don't think you have. The dash does need to come out to change the box. I've done it. Please stop commenting on things you have no experience with.

I agree on the road force balancer and add that you should have your alignment checked including caster angle. When I swapped to 4wd I did a toe and go and was fine for a little while until "it" happened. Then I rechecked it and found my caster was at 3.5 to 4 degrees when it should have been close to 7. Adjusted the caster as close as I could get it and haven't had an issue since. This is on no lift and 235 tires on stock rims.

Is your total budget $800? I bought my Hobart 140, gas bottle, large spool of wire, and some extra tips and have about that much in it. I don't see you going bigger and staying in that budget without getting something used for a complete setup.