dasbulliwagen

I had 235 BFG A/T's with no rubbing and no lift when mine was 2wd.

Usually with floorboard rust it goes from the inside out. Both sides in that area need to be treated.

I think an enamel like rustoleum would be better as it is more water resistant than a lacquer primer. Primer is only meant to be a base for a resilient topcoat and not as a finish coat itself. I don't consider a rubberized undercoating as a resilient topcoat due to its softness. The undercoating should only used as an additional layer of protection.

I wouldn't put undercoating on bare cleaned metal. It should be painted first. Some people say undercoating will hold moisture but I've really only seen this in the salt belt where rust has creeped under the coating through damaged areas or seams. In the south I've seen no problems at all with using it for protection and sound deadening.

The AX15 will with a Dakota 2.5 bell housing. There are a few on here that have done it but I'm not the one to get the details from.

I agree. You shouldn't have any points. I'm surprised it runs at all. It also makes me wonder what else might be wrong.

86 to 87 they also changed the way the header panel attaches. I dealt with this putting the 86 Waggy header assy on my 87. Not that big a deal but worth mentioning since you're asking about body differences.

Its probably low on blinker fluid.

If I were you I'd swap the 4.10 rear end in too as long as its OK from the wreck.

If you don't swap the rear end you will need to take the speedo gear from the 4 speed trans and put it in the 5 speed to keep your speedo correct. It should just slide out the speedo cable hole and into the new trans.

It is mounted in my MJ and has been for quite a while. I like having a good working OEM radio in there. To me at least when I see an aftermarket radio mounted in a car it makes me wonder how bad the wiring got screwed up during the install and all the problems that go along with that.

Hands! Ha! Took me a few minutes to figure that out. Just FYI the radio I posted came out of an 86 XJ Waggy Limited.

There were different block mounting points on some of the 4.0 blocks that make them not a bolt in swap. I think the WJ was different. Not sure about the ZJ or the TJ. Someone else who knows better should chime in. If you go to HO swap I would find a complete XJ donor for cheap. A wrecked one of a blowed IP one. Then you will have ALL that you need for the swap. Then you can scrap or part out the rest yo recoup some money.

I agree with the port matching. Bigger improvements can be seen with a bigger throttle body than with porting the manifold.

I have a bunch of Coca-Cola stuff including a '60's can machine. Most of what I have was free or low cost. I like oddball stuff too most of which don't cost much. I just bought 2 Coke labeled 8mm tape reels from the 60's whith a bunch of music on them. I got some gallon Coke syrup jugs in their original boxes from my grandfather who bought them full of moonshine a long time ago. In his later years he was using the stuff for paint thinner. Bottles found in old trash dumps, stuff like that. At one point when I was much younger I had 7 air cooled VW's in various states of disrepair. I gave those up a few years ago to concentrate on Jeep MJ's and XJ's in various states of dierepair. I only have three of those though. Anything oddball and old catches my eye though. Especially if its cheap enough.

At 5 inches you WILL need an adjustable track bar as well. Don't mess with transfer case drops or drop pitman arms. You won't need them. Your driveshafts should be OK too but will need new U joints. If you're not going off road I would get the control arm drop brackets and a set of upper and lower WJ control arms. You'll save money by going spring over axle in the rear with a new axle but if you're not going off road the Dana 35 will live just fine for a while, but if you go right to 33's you'll need regeared. The 8.8 Ford axle can be had in 4.10 and 4:10 Dana 30 fronts can be found as well if you don't want to actually do re gearing. Swap the correct geared axles in and hut the road. The Chrysler 8.25 will be all but impossible to find with 4.10. 3.73 was pretty common in those but the you probably won't find a 30 with those gears. Do your research and ask questions.

I'm a dealer tech and we have seen few if any issues with the gas powered trucks. The eight speed really makes the truck feel like its half the weight it is. The hemi will have cylinder deactivation and variable valve timing. Combine that with the eight speed and they get decent milage. I wouldn't hesitate to buy one.

There is supposed to be a plastic cone pushed onto the end of the push rod that rides in the throw out arm. This increases the length of the rod by almost an inch. I ran into the same issue when I did mine. It just wasn't getting enough throw to fully disengage. Then I looked at the pushrods and transfered the plastic cone and all was good. You would think it would come with a new one on the slave cylinder but it doesn't. Hope this helps.

Are you talking about the Swept line trucks or the trucks based on the A vans? If its the trucks www.sweptline.org is a great resource equivalent to comancheclub. I'm holding onto my buddies 71 Sweptline pickup. Its a half ton short bed big block automatic AC truck that spent most of it life with a camper in the back of it. His dad bought it new and its been in his family ever since. He's been trying to restore it but has hit several road blocks. It's a nice truck though. Hopefully this summer we will have it going again.

I removed my sportruck decals this way. Bad thing is now that they are gone you can still see where they were due to paint fading in the uncovered areas.

I made custom brackets to mount an XJ rear bumper to my MJ. If you put that custom one on my brackets it might interfere with the rear body, but I'm not really sure. I was able to trim the original XJ plastic rear bumper ends to fit the MJ lower bed corners. I'm not sure how that would work with a custom one. If you go into the projects section look up "Comanche Limited" for my build thread and pics of the mounts I made. With the cost of the metal to build mine and the engineering time, it might just be easier to buy the pre made brackets and weld them on to that bumper.

When I did mine I ran out of shims so I used a couple short peices of bar stock shoved in there.

For larger sizes and hub centric look at the Liberty and the Nitro. Nitro's come in sizes up to 20 inches have 5x4.5 lug pattern and are hub centric. Backspacing if its an issue can be taken care of with hub centric spacers like Spidertrax. Other good hub centric with correct pattern wheels come from 2005 and newer Dodge Charger, Magnum, and Challenger, and Chrysler 300. Base models come with a 17 inch steel bullet hole and police cars come with an 18 inch steel 5 spoke. Not to mention a ton of aluminum choices. The steelies at least have been used successfully over on Naxja.org by several people. I have JK 17 inch takeoffs on mine with spidertrax adapters. They measure right at 32 inches stock. JK wheels can also be had stock in 18 inches. Choices are out there. Let us know what you end up with.

I have to admit that I forgot about this over the weekend. I went out tonight to look but didn't see it. Its more buried than I thought. I'll try to remember again for this weekend to dig it out and get some pics at the very least.

I still haven't had the need to see if this will work. Mines still working fine. If I remember I'll try to dig out the yj one and take some pics this weekend.