dasbulliwagen

You should give definite consideration to the Mazda 6. I'm a Mazda dealer tech and can say that I wouldn't mind owning one myself. They're better looking than the Toyota too. Hyundai Sonata's are nice as well. We bought a new Hyundai Elantra last year and my wife absolutely loves it. They have come a long way. I know the Toys are decent as well but to me its just boring. Let us know what you end up buying.

It might be a good starting point for you but as soon as you get into school and use some real welders you won't like the flux core anymore. I saved and bought a Hobart 140 and a CO2/Argon tank and love it. I would consider my Hobart setup a bare minimum for someone who wants decent project welding on a regular basis.

The Hyundai trans was an easy pick due to the fact that Chrysler Hyundai Mitsubishi and BMW share the world engine platform. The base engine short block in Chrysler 1.8 2.0 and 2.4 is a shared platform with those other companies with what I assume is a shared bell housing pattern. Which makes the Hyundai trans an easy adaptation. Our Chrysler tech trainers say that Hyundai was quite happy to share their trans and all software with us. I think they even give us access to Hyundai factory tech data though I've never ventured over there myself. So far it seems like a good trans. I just saw the other day that they are being put into Dodge Darts as well. At least until they can put the horrible 9 speed into it.

The Pat is OK now that it has the 6 speed Hyundai auto trans in it. The CVT that they used to have made them junk. The manual trans is junk as well.

My 86 2.8 5 speed donor truck had 4:10's in it.

48-46206

New toy arrived in the mail today. Looks like a well made piece. Might be a couple years before I get to use it though. My current manifold is leaking though... Maybe I'll use it sooner than I think. Its a aFe twisted steel header in full stainless. Not for use with EGR though.

I hate it. Just because you can do something like that doesn't mean you should. It was built for shock value and nothing else. Stupid.

If the rest of the truck is solid then yes its worth it. I have over 200000 on a Jasper rebuild that the previous owner put in my truck. Still running strong. These engines have the same longevity as the 4.0. It's all good.

Yes 4 bangerjp is mostly wranglers but that's not what its about. Its about the 2.5. Some more info on these cranks would be great as well. I'm planning a performance build in the near future and would like more info on this. Is that crank the one 505 performance uses or do they offset grind the rod journals to get the added stroke?

Are you sure a GM crank will go right into an AMC block? Some people get the pre 84 GM 2.5 mixed up with the 84 and later AMC 2.5. I just want to clarify this. I don't want to get excited over nothing. I've done some preliminary research on the AMC 2.5 and have never seen this mod mentioned. On www.4bangerjp.com I've never seen this mentioned. And if it would be mentioned anywhere it would be there.

Buy a 4.0 XJ donor complete and swap it all over. You'll need to cut and weld the core support to swap the rad and maybe massage the firewall s little but I think that's your best option for power reliability and cost with minimal fabrication. All you'll need made up is a rear driveshaft.

See if you can find my build thread " Comanche limited " there will be several ideas there. I also have an 87 2.5. I've had off or swapped just about every part on this thing except for the engine the bench seat the gas tank and the leaf springs. Everything else has been swapped in or massaged. Also check out www.4bangerjp.com lots of good engine info there. Good luck.

They are an uglier heavier version of the Grand Cherokee. But I'm sure you already know that. I'm always leery of vehicles that have that many miles being financed. You never know once you're over 100000 miles what repairs might be needed and having to fix high dollar stuff on top of making payments. Price don't seem bad. If that was on our lot they'd probably be asking closer to $20000 for it. If you think its what you want then go for it. At least it doesn't have the 3.7 in it. Its way too heavy for that motor. It has 2 open recalls. One to reprogram the transfer case and one for the ignition switch that doesnt have parts available yet. It was originally sold out of North Carolina to a private security company.

I've heard of people installing a Cherokee tank in place of the spare tire. Might be something to research as an auxiliary unit if you can relocate your spare.

Keep an eye on the frame around the steering box. I've seen them break there before.

Kudo... Have you ever pulled the HVAC box of of an mj or xj? I don't think you have. The dash does need to come out to change the box. I've done it. Please stop commenting on things you have no experience with.

I agree on the road force balancer and add that you should have your alignment checked including caster angle. When I swapped to 4wd I did a toe and go and was fine for a little while until "it" happened. Then I rechecked it and found my caster was at 3.5 to 4 degrees when it should have been close to 7. Adjusted the caster as close as I could get it and haven't had an issue since. This is on no lift and 235 tires on stock rims.

Is your total budget $800? I bought my Hobart 140, gas bottle, large spool of wire, and some extra tips and have about that much in it. I don't see you going bigger and staying in that budget without getting something used for a complete setup.

I love the A-10's. I grew up in Battle Creek, Michigan home of Fort Custer where the Michigan National Guard flew A-10's around town doing exercises almost every weekend. Good stuff!

You can remove the bell housing just not externally. You need to pull the whole trans to get at the bolts inside the bell housing. And if you're getting a whole external slave trans setup you won't need to worry about this anyways.

I agree the new 6 speed auto supplied by Hyundai made those actually decent cars as compared to earlier models. Hyundai also uses a variant of the same world engine that is available in the Compatriot so I'm sure it was no big deal for Chrysler to get it to bolt up.

I didn't really mean you were doing it on purpose. Just seems like that is what's happening going by your description.

Also. If you swap the whole clutch slave and master together while the trans is out you won't even have to bleed it.Just bolt them both in without undoing the fluid line.

You can't externally remove the trans from the bell housing. You'll need to pull the whole thing. So if you get a trans with external slave just use the whole thing. Its a much better setup than the failure prone internal slave trucks.