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He is remembering incorrectly. Jeep never offered a limited slip in the front Dana 30. Not in the XJ, not in the MJ, not in the ZJ. Maybe his dealership was installing them as a dealer option, but it was not a factory option. I think a front limited slip would create some real handling problems in snow or ice. grand cherokee WJs with quadratrac came with front and rear limited slip Not that I don't believe this, its more of the fact I'm too lazy to search it :) But I'm wondering if what you are referring to is "Active" traction control? Open diff's, computer pulses the brakes to transfer power to select tires based on wheel speed. (Wheel speed sensors at each corner)

A lot of people will remove the thermostat and "think"? it will result in better cooling. But the fact is it will cause more harm. You want the Thermostat (or at least a resistor plate) to slow the water. The Thermostat helps to keep the water pressure higher in the engine block. The higher pressure of the coolant will absorb the heat better off the iron block. A thermostat will also slow the flow of coolant, allowing to stay in the engine long enough to absorb the heat. And more importantly, keep the coolant in the radiator longer to disparate the heat. You want the water leaving the radiator to be less then ~20 Degrees cooler then when it was put in. Total system PSI is important too. The higher the PSI, the hotter you can run coolant before it boils ( makes bubbles, as air is a bad absorber of heat). The higher PSI also forces the liquid against the metal, for better transfer of heat. Don't go crazy, ~16PSI cap is fine. I've seen guys run very low PSI caps, and overheat. Also a common mistake is using too much coolant. Rule of thumb is 50/50. However, many mistakenly think, " 50% is good, so 100% antifreeze MUST be better". That is NOT the case. But, pure water and some soap will cool much better. Issues is, no corrosion protection, and ZERO freeze protection. I have run pure water in the summer months.

Both very good photos !

It is not a gimmick, its a solution to limited space. You are only visually seeing a "Mic" with buttons and what not. There is a small metal box that houses the main electronics. That small box is to mounted behind the dash, or under a seat. All CB radios have a MAX wattage, so this unit is not any weaker or stronger then any another unit on the market. With that said, I went with a Cobra 29 LX. It has more aftermarket modifications then most other other CB radios on the market.

Thats odd. I wonder why he is not accepting new members? There must be a cost involved with member acquisition?

I have been wanting to replace the lighter socket / 12v power. I want to put a gauge there, wanted to put a voltage gauge. I put this in for now https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SXZERW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 But, I'm looking to put something that look more permanent in the future.

Well, that did work out good for you. :thumbsup:

here is a good video. Keep in mind the Pinion angle will rotate up under acceleration. You want "prime" or best angle to be achieved under acceleration. So at static, it should be a bit lower then prime.

Ok, cool. But how do you get the strap off the tail gate? I know, sounds silly, but the straps look to be not removable.

How does one go about replacing the straps on a tailgate? Where to buy new straps. Other solutions?

I don't think I'd use insurance for that. Looks like just light damage. I'm sure you can get everything for ~$200 if that. Unless the fender or hood is bent. The fender looks a bit bent, but even if it is, those are cheap too. If your paint is in good shape, and you want the parts to match, then maybe. When you use your insurance, it causes your rates to go up(even if they say no). If you can fix it for around the cost of deductible, I would. Don't get me wrong, having insurance and using insurance is great.

I just installed these : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D61DQ92/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Compared to the factory ones, much more beef. Larger U joints, more meat around em. There is also Chrome-Moly CV shafts being sold on Ebay, for about the same price. I was tempted to get those instead. CV shafts transment power more efficiently, during turns. Providing smoother power to the wheels with out jerking. Bet the CV part of the shaft tends to be weaker then an equal U-Joint. Less surface contact on CV. I know I'll probably get some slack from saying this, but I'd but the most inexpensive 4340 shafts. It's all the same metal, built to a spec to fix your axle. I'm sure a $400 set of shafts will do just as good as an $800 set. And if you break 4340 shaft, it won't matter how much you paid, it would have broke anyway. IMO

I hate hauling an empty trailer. I've found my self having to drive through many states with an empty trailer. Some places to post or look for loads, pirate4x4 has a forum on loads I have an account on UShip too. I'll usually browse that site and find something. Usually have to re route or go ~100Mi or less off my original trip. It's always nice when you can get the whole trip paid for by hauling something. Post a picture of your trailer, I love to look at trailers. I know, odd obsession to have : ) This is my main hauler, Trailer George CV88 of my Northern fleet. Image Not Found This is another trailer of mine, Trailer Foxtrot CV44 of my Southern fleet. Image Not Found

Humm,, I have the same problem. It takes many turns of the engine before it starts. Runs great once it starts. Awhile back, it would start quickly. Not sure what changed though. But now, I have to hold the key for a bit before it actually starts.

Damn, I could never imagine pulling a windshield! A new one installed is so cheap. I replaced the one on my MJ, wasn't broken or cracked, just grimy and weathered. Yea, I could have cleaned it, but it is so cheap to just replace it. I have had widows replaced that wore not broken, just cause it was easier. I had a car with messed up tint. Now, I could have spent many hours scraping it off, or just spend a few hundred replacing the glass. Allowing to use my valuable time on other aspects.

Chrysler has "X" number of Comanche spring part numbers. Each with a select amount of difference on lift and number of leafs. Deaver is a great spring maker, but I'm sure they based the spring they built for you off Chrysler spec's. If Deaver selected the "tallest" chrysler spec, then added ~4" to that, that would net ~7". Maybe removing the stiffest thick leaf will allow it to sit lower. That would also help with flex. I moved my battery to the rear, near bumper and mounted my spare far back in bed too. To add weight on the springs, so my Jeep would set level.

When I called General Springs to order new rear springs, they told me there wore 3 or 4 different spring part numbers from Chrysler. Differences included number of leafs in the pack, and loaded height. Well I can't recall all the details he told me, I seem to recall ~3" between them. Then factor if you bought them with added lift. You may want to call General Springs, the guy I talked to had some real good knowledge.

Humm, yea thats odd. So not allowed to ask prices? I'll remember not to to that :) Ah, man you are missing some great stuff on there right now! It's crazy!

I welded a bung on the pan. I put it on the side, on the flat space. Actually turned out not to be the best space. When pulling the transmission, the sensor hit the floor. Should have put it up higher. I've read there is a "test" port on the AW4 that some use to mount the sensor. I've seen others use a T adapter on one of the cooler lines. I prefer not to add failure points, however that method works too. Image Not Found

It'll be funny, cause in 3 weeks you will be cleaning, and find that remote under the seat. I personally like the wireless remotes. I use em on my trailers when loading cars. Quick n easy, no wires.. You have to take this opportunity to up grade. I see failure as a great thing, cause when it happens I get to up-grade. Not that the theft of a remote is failure, but still an opportunity to make a change. I have 3 ways to operate my winch, the corded hand held, a wireless remote, and finally an in cab control. Image Not Found (Note: there are videos showing how to wire using CAT5 cable. Don't use CAT5 cable in an automotive application. CAT5 is structural cabling using solid core conductors. It is not designed to be used in an environment with vibration. If you really want to use CAT5, then buy stranded CAT5, used to make patch cords. Personally, I used some wire from lows. Covered in black with 3 stranded conductors 18AWG.)

When wore you at white sands? I have a home up near there, in Alamo. It's where I keep my toys, including my MJ. I need to take my MJ there for some photos. Best place to take black cars / trucks or white ones, the contrast makes the truck "pop" We need to get all the ELP guys and have a meet. There must be 4 or 5 here now.

:yes:

Very Nice !

What are some good sites to goto to learn about this and sites to buy stuff?

very nice !