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Mine was a real b*@$£ to install. Took hours to finally install and adjust. I learned and made new swear words. At one point, I was going to just put back on the factory one. I was finally able to install and get it to work. Works fine.Don't recall what adjustments I had to do. But, If it gives me even so much as a @$#%;s hair worth of trouble, I'll pull its card. What is funny, go post on the other forum, about how difficult the install was, and they will assume you are a complete idiot.

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I put 2 factory AC fans on my Master Jeep. I spent time making wiring control all fancy. 3 Thermo sensors, Relays, in cab switch. Set them up, to where one kicks on at ~180, 2nd kicks on at ~200. Turing on AC kicks them both on. Manual cab switch turns them both on. What I have learned. Best to wire one to always run when engine is on. Wire 2nd one to simple 180 sensor. Have backup switch ready (in cab switch). I had over complicated it when I first wired it. These fans are very important. You want em to work, when they need to work. I also installed a warning buzzer and light. completely separate from the fans. Goes off when top hose is at 220.

ARB is built great. But almost every off-road ride I go on, trucks / jeeps with ARBs have problems. It's NEVER the actual locker, its always been the supporting infrastructure required to engage the locker in the axle. Electrical, fuses, compressor, air leaks, ripped hoses, and so on. just too many fail points. I don't recommend it. I liked the idea of the OX. Simple cable. However, after talking to some guys, apparently these have issues too. On one ride I was on, the cable was not adjusted right, and he could not enable the locker. (Yea, he could have pulled out tools and fixed it, but he would have held up the trail run) E-Locker, seems to be the best selectable locker out right now. Simple, less stuff to fail. Can be jumper-ed if needed. Issues I have had, takes a few tire rotations to disengage. Other then that, it's worked every time.

Not exactly related to your issue. I have a floor shifter, that will do the same thing. It won't go in to park. The issue is the frame that holds the shift lever gets "Tweaked". It gets Tweaked because the button on the top (that has to be pressed to allow the shifter to move) does not work all the time. So, the driver "Strong arms" the lever, usually in a fit of rage. bending the bracket, causing the lever to not go all the way up (park) or all the way down. It can be bent back in to shape, by forcing it the other way (with out pressing the shift button) till its proper. The button malfunction is caused by a plastic part inside the shaft of the shifter. This plastic part known as "Anal Beads" wears out, or actually gets shorter. So, now I'm looking for new Anal beads for my XJ floor shifter. anyone know where I can buy em?

I did something like this, 94XJ to 87MJ electrical. I cut the factory XJ rear harness, and made my own. I bought new light sockets, although the used ones would work just fine.

I never seen or noticed a 10 slot grill. I'm going to keep an eye for one. Good job!

Dirt Bound Off Road made one. http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/comanche-mj.html Look them on the book of faces, there are pictures. I don't think you will find any on their web site... https://www.facebook.com/DirtBoundOffroad/photos/a.162402120475341.31228.124064200975800/1096275983754612/?type=3&theater

Very cool someone snapped a picture of you on your journey, and that photo found itself here...

Yea, on the fuel cap, I'm surprised they don't have one. Apparently its a thing now a days on newer cars / trucks to have no fuel cap. I think any 4X4 should have a cap though. I added a billet fuel cap. Also the DEF kinda sucks too. Having to keep track of another consumable. I see you got tow mirrors, that is a big plus. Gona cost me ~$600+ to get some tow mirrors. I think all RAM's with the 6.7 should default with tow mirrors. You got the in bed LED lights? Mine did not come with those, I'm looking to add em.

Nice, The 4th Gen RAM's are great looking trucks, and the ~2013 and newer suspensions are awesome. The upper level models (Laramie and Laramie Longhorn) are truly luxury. The Tradesmen is a great model for the working man. I had an SLT for while, in fact, I've always bought SLT models with RAM. It's like the middle of the road. My current one is Laramie, and I don't think I can buy an SLT anymore after being babied like this. The seats actually "cool" my balls... My nuts get the AC... Every man should experience cooled nuts... My wife likes it too :) The dash is so technical, it's like flying a plane. Driving at night, with all the dash lit up, makes you feel like your in a cockpit. This is by far the best truck I've owned. I was expecting more from the Cummins though. My Gas 2011 RAM 2500 pulled really good. I expected to be in shock with the awesome power of 6.7, but it was just ok.. Maybe need to put a tuner on it. It does pull real good though. Un-laden, I get ~22MPG to 17MPG. Also much better then my Gasser (~17 to 12MPG) Enjoy your RAM man!

Thats cool! Yea, the Oryx are still around, mostly in Mcgregor range. They Filmed Transformers at White Sands too.

Finally hooked up my new 2500 to my heaviest trailer. took it for a test drive to White Sands. White on White, being bulled by white at white sands. Too much White? :) Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

MJ Junkie, thats a good idea. Honestly though, if someone wants your trailer, they gona get it. Your goal is to make it as tough as you can, with out making a pain for you to use. I implemented a few different anti-theft measures. Again, my goal is to make the thief work for it. In hopes they will give up and move to an easier target. However, I don't want it to be such a pain to hook up, that I'll avoid towing it, or skip securing it. If implementing the anti-theft measures is time consuming or complected, it may get skipped. 1st, I have a wheel lock / Chalk. I mount it to the center rim. I mount it on the most visual side of trailer, depending on where and how it is parked. Not only to act as a physical deterrent, but a visual deterrent also. All tires have at least 2 locking lug nuts. 2. I secure the hitch with a coupler lock. I use a very good lock. I wrap the safety chain around to remove any slack, and put the hooks in the coupler lock also. This is cause thief's can use the loose chain. By raising the trailer, hooking just the safety chain, then lowering trailer. It'll work good enough to get blocks away. 3. I'll remove the jack handle, if parked in high risk location. Otherwise it remains on. 4. Car Alarm. Simple alarm with tilt sensor, 2 motion sensors (one aimed at bed (covers cargo), one aimed in from covering coupler). Door triggers on door and tool box. System has 2 sirens, and flashes the LED lighting. 5. GPS Locator 6. Unique ID markings on roof, LARGE. I've read articles where Law enforcement has used choppers to get visuals on stolen trucks and trailers hidden in large lots. The unique ID on the roof can be used to identify your trailer. 7. I store my trailers at one of 2 of my homes. Main docking is fenced, security cameras, and guard dog. 2nd docking home, is fully lit with multiple lights. Guard dog, and security cameras. Physical security is important. Still they can steal it, but they sure will have to work at it. Image Not Found Image Not Found Note Door Image Not Found Image Not Found

Get your springs yet? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

For what, burning out? Or Winch control? (to lock the tires to prevent rolling). Or as a parking brake replacement? If burning out, just put a stroker or boost your current engine. No need for line lock. Also, you won't need to cheat with water under the tires... Or just use an open dif, and one wheel peel.. (JK man)

Thanks for some direction. I tried that, and the compressor locked. With the hose closed, nothing to pull. I thought about it, and maybe I should have had the refrigerant can open? So it can suck from the can? What I figured out on those valves. Fully open (Stem extended), allows full flow through hoses. Fully closed (Stem as short as it will go), closes the hoses and only allows valve. Soo, I was thinking the stems need to be about mid point to allow flow through everything. I know I'm not the only one to fill the AC on these, there must be a read me or video out there, right?

I installed all new stuff, Compressor, Condenser, Hoses, O-Rings, Black can and so on... Added oil opened the valves 1/2 way on compressor. Vacuumed it out. Proceeded to fill with Red Tech 12. Low side hits ~100PSI. Way too high High side stays at ~0 or sometimes will goto ~50. I have forced the compressor on, no change. The only thing I can think of is there is a "Valve" or something on a hose on the can, maybe that valve is not getting pressed? What am I missing here? Thanks

I was going to order military wrapped springs a few months back. I called to ask if they wore in stock. They said no. I asked what they had in stock. He listed 1 spring set. I ordered that. I got those springs the same week I ordered. I DID NOT want to be in your position. Sorry for your delay, damn first world problems.... :/

The concept is that as the oil in the diffs, T case and transmission heat up, it expands. That expansion displaces the air in those items. The vent tube allows the air to escape, and come back in as it cools. The cap is basically like a "U" shape to help limit bad things like dirt or dust from going down the pipe. You want to insure the vent pipes are higher then any water crossing you may experience. most are at least the height of the intake. It is important to make sure the expanding air has a free flow. A clogged or restricted vent will cause premature seal failure, as the air will push out of the next easiest spot, a seal. There are a few other solutions other then the cheap factory solution. You can buy "Billows" for example. They look kinda like a mini shock boot, but only have one hole. The fit over the hose fitting of the diff, T-case or Trans. My issue with these is, I think they can fall off. I have no personal experience though. You can simply attach a small filter to the end, even a fuel filter. Some guys make a "loop" in the hose to limit water ingestion. But, most guys know they own a Jeep, not a boat and there for don't enter deep water. What I did was connect all 3 front lines (Front diff, T-Case and Trans) to a block. Then connected a breather type air filter, and mounted high on the firewall. As such: Image Not Found

Hit an RTI Ramp at a local 4X4 get together. I think I did decent. I take RTI numbers with a grain of salt. I off-road with the guys that also hit the ramp. Guys that have very nice rigs, and do awesome when rock crawling, did not score as high as I would have expected. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Hummm, sounds kinda too good to be true... I hope its real. I ordered a few.

So, has anyone gotten the package yet? I somehow doubt its the NSS. I did order a few though, at that price, what do you have to loose?

That is impressive. That anyone would drive a Comanche across the country. When I need to drive more then ~100Mi, I have a support truck follow, or I use my massive trailer. And, my WHOLE drive train is new on my MJ. You, sir, are a hero... :) That GPM is impressive too.

Well, Personally I'd say no. I think its too old, and may require more work / money then you will be able to sell it for. I'd look up on car sale sites, and ebay for cars like this one. Look for cars like this one, already fixed up, to get an idea of market value. ' However, could work out. If he is truthful about the inside. If the seats, dash, carpet, door panels and the rest are in good to great shape. Maybe just need some engine work, body paint, and basic inside work, then maybe a good first flip project. Judging by his claim of "Brand New Tires", Id say he is not being truthful or he confused on time. Those tires have been setting for some time, you can see the park marks. Maybe they wore "New" 10 years ago before he parked it... So, if he is misleading you on the tires, what else is he not telling you? Also, I just noticed the rust. If you decide to do this, make sure to look under the carpet for rust. If the side panels are that rusted, then I'll bet you can do the "flint stone"... ( google the flint stones car, I'm not sure on your age man. You could be from the "Pokem in da puddy toons" age or newer...) If you have the time and money, and feel like the resell value will pay off, then do it. If anything it'll make a great learning experience. If you want to "flip", I'd probably get a car / truck that interests you. You don't want to have this Z setting waiting to get worked on, because your bored of it.