daking

Someone just posted this video.

I've never seen one split like that. I have seen them pop off. Check pulley alignments, make sure all the pulleys are equal. If one is just a bit further in or out, it will stress the belt. Could be something grabbing too, like PS, ALT, AC, FAN or Waterpump.

Well, technically you have to have supporting mods too. '

Looks good. The sensor looks like the one in my 1991. On a side note: A performance trick is to relocate the sensor to a cooler location. I moved mine, and mounted it on the air box.

I have a flow-master 40 or 50. I don't like the sound. I've been looking for a replacement. I have looked at Thrush and hush master.

I wish I had them put the trim on mine when they did it. Anyone buy and install the trim on their own?

Typo, I meant to write " I replaced the regulator in the fuel rail with one rated at 49PSI". Yet fuel pressure gauge reads 39PSI.

Something's wrong then. The stock submerged pump should put out 49psi easily, w/o vacuum hooked up of course. I've been running 49psi OBD2 injectors for years using an adjustable regulator. Should do the same using a fixed 49psi OBD2 regulator. Are you trying to get 49psi with the vacuum line hooked up? If so, why? I had 2 different pumps, nether would push greater ~39. I'm using ~87 fuel rail, with 91' engine, with 2000+ intake, with high flow injectors 27# if I recall. I'm using a modified MJ fuel mount + 91' pump. Everybody running these injectors says ~49PSI is best (at 0 Vacuum). I replaced the regulator in the fuel rail with one rated at 39PSI. Not adjustable. I'm debating just getting the adjustable one. Admittedly the engine runs like a beast, spins em in 1st, spins em going into 2'nd, and chirps em going into 3rd. So, it is making power. But my AFR at WOT is not where I'd like it. It does not hold at "rich" when at WOT. My current guess is not enough fuel pressure at 0 Vacuum.

Why go with an external for your application? Accessing the intake pump is not that difficult. I'm going with an external because I can't get ~49 PSI out of a stock one. (I put in a ~49PSI regulator, & still get ~38PSI max). Not sure where I'll mount it. I may put it where the factory fuel filter is, and move the filter. Here is what I bought : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DN7VME?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I'm looking to replace my steering box too. I've read the Dodge Durango box is bigger and bolts right up. Anyone here try that box? Other wise, I'll get a ZJ box from the pull it yard.

Looks super sharp !

Well, SOME BEACH!@ Less then ~30 starts. Brand new ATP Flex plate.... Guess for a 3rd time in just as many months the transmission is coming out.... $@#%%#$^% Image Not Found

Well, for those reading this with an Automatic. Change the flex plate! (or at the very least, inspect it)

I had some on my Race RAM, and they did help. They helped bring it to a stop when going down the 1/4 and the sand drags. They did not last long. Sand would get in the slots, and tore up the pads. Mud also got in the holes and slots. You can't turn slotted rotors, so one time use. I would not buy em for an MJ, unless its raced. I defiantly would not buy them for off-road. For daily driving, you won't notice an improvement.

Well, 3 distributors later, and I'm still not working. 1st, I agree the 94 n up is a better design. But it is NOT PNP. The electrical connector is different. How do I know?, cause I bought one, installed it, and went to plug it in.... You what I discovered? I discovered I just spent ~1.5hr (includes buying part) to find out the connectors are different. 2nd, You are correct the actual Pulse Ring is not pressed on, however the flat part under the ring, that is pressed on. And that is what failed. The Rotor is keyed by the pulse ring, not the shaft. So, because the mount for the pulse ring came un pressed, it not only caused the pulse ring to go off, but also caused the rotor to be off alignment. I'll post a video shortly. 3rd, turns out most part stores only keep ONE distributor in stock.

I agree, these are like legos !

looking good! I do have a thing for white MJs though

92'

ah, good info. I was not too sure if it was moving the timing or not. But fuel makes sense, It seemed like a fuel problem when it would fail.

So for a few weeks my MJ has been randomly stalling. Be driving, and engine will die. Sometimes it'll restart, but usually I have to let it set. MJ would drive awesome, except when it would stall. I thought it was fuel delivery. Cause, after the engine would stop, if I put gas down the TB, it would start. Well, finally it stopped and would not start. After checking the usual, I was kinda stuck. I decided to take a look at the Distributor. I had installed it a few months back, new from AutoZone. As looking inside, I found my problem. The "pulse ring" is pressed on to the shaft. It is NOT supposed to rotate independently of the shaft. On my New Autozone Distributor, that pulse ring is loose. It rotates a few degrees on the shaft, just enough to mess up the timing. I was able to force it on the the shaft to lock it. It's advanced the timing now, I think. I need to put a timing light and see. It will come loose again, I need to find a way to actually lock it. like a tac weld. If it advances the timing, like the CPS mod, I may keep it. Anyone else see this issue before?

"option #2: IRO uni mounts http://www.ironrocko....com/10010.html These would let me mount to the bottom of the axle but I don't like how far out they come off the axle." I went with that type of mount. You actually want the shock mount to be "off" from the axle. This gives the shock more leverage on the axle to help control axle wrap. Best type is where one side is in-front of axle and other side is on back of axle. look at some modern trucks. But that is not really do able with the MJ. Image Not Found Here is a picture showing axle at full drop. You can see 3 different shock mounts. Factory type plate on top. Welded on in the meddle. And weld on near bottom. If I used the factory location, I would not see that much drop, as the shock would have to be smaller. The middle mount limited max drop. The current mount is perfect. The rear axle is in full flex, the other tire is tucked into the fender, forcing this side down. I can unbolt the shock, and there is no more drop. It's with in 2 or 3 MM, so no wasted flex. Image Not Found

What are the common fail points between the axles? (30 / 44) U-joints Gears Spindles Tube strength un-sprung weight Yoke ?others? So, if the common fail point, is say, "axle shafts", then would it make sense to focus solutions on that fail point? Or, just fix the common fail points. I just saw a snapped Dana 30 on an XJ (on the "Book Of Faces") Maybe from too much jumping? So would have a truss prevented that? Would having a 44 have prevented that? I was looking at going with a 44, but I changed my mind. I'm not planning on running larger then 33" tires. I will be trusing, upgrading the axle shafts & joints, and maybe sleeving. Not saying the 44 is not worth it. It would be cool to have a 44.

That is real nice! I've been looking for something like that for awhile now.

You need a 1/8 NPT pipe plug , or you can use an old sender if you have one lying around . Thanks for your reply, however, I'm looking at the other end :) . I'm looking to put a nut on the electrical side of the sensor. I cut the original electrical connector, and put on a ring connector. Or, I'll need to find an original type of connector.