daking

related question. does anyone know the thread of the factory gauge sensor that in the back of the head? I need to nut it. I've tried all kind a nuts, but nothing seems to fit.

Those are awesome.

I've been at this for well over 50 years and this is the first time I've ever heard of a switch to control air shock ride height. If you did find a mechanical switch to turn the compressor off and on, how would you keep it from turning the compressor on ever time you hit a bump? Something to think about. Eagle, how to cars with air suspension turn on and off their air systems? The old GMC motorhome had air bags for springs and to level the coach. Remember them? Electro Level I think they were called. Modern systems use a delay. I was looking at a kit for my HD, and I was concerned about the same-thing. The kit I was looking at, had a ~20sec delay before turning on compressor or releasing air from valve. In the end, I just used bags, no auto leveling or on-board air. I may add that in the future. I never knew XJ or MJ even came with factory air shocks. Personally, if I was going to do it. I'd use bags, with "cups" on the bottom. The bags are rigid mounted to the frame, and sit in cups on the axle. That way they don't limit axle travel. If I hauled with my MJ, that's how I would implement.

Great job!

Does that CPS "look" like a factory unit? or is it a custom kind of bracket that relocates the physical location of the sensor a few CM?

Adams Driveshaft and Tom Woods are both great places to get new shafts. The local drive shaft place to me, was giving me the "Shaft" when it came to price. Wanted just a bit more then Adams, but all stock stuff. Adams and Tom Woods use better parts, longer splines and other little things that make a good shaft. I've used both in the past. My MJ is running Adams.

I'll pick one up. I have the transmission out right now. best time to install a CPS.. I can't find one on line. guess its a dealer item

do you have the part number for it?

Daking: Do you have a link or information on the ones you purchased. those look great. Thanks This is where I ordered my LED's. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6RC4JC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZIQP6G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063JGFRY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Jeep-White-BRIGHT-Dash-Board-12V-LEDs-Courtesy-Light-Bulb-Lamp-17-18-NOS-/371221196786?hash=item566e81eff2 Where Jackrabbit41 ordered, is a good site too! I have ordered LED lights there too. I have converted many of my cars / trucks to LED.

pulled the transmission. The plate was totally broken. I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. What sucks, I just paid a transmission shop to rebuild my Transmission. You would think they would have seen the cracked plate. I have to spend a weekend worth of time pulling and reinstalling a transmission to replace a ~$40 part. Image Not Found You can see where to converter bolts wore loose. most likely causing the failure. It was making the noise before the transmission rebuild, I may not have torqued em when I installed the transmission last year. Image Not Found Image Not Found

I have the same problem. Original pump would not keep pressure up. So I bought one at O'reillies store. Installed it. One issue was it never held pressure when engine was shut down. (I have a fuel pressure gauge mounted on y fuel rail). The other pumps would hold pressure for a few hours after engine off. This pump would drain. The pump made great pressure, it actually blew the hose off in-side the tank. I thought the pump went bad, but after I removed the assembly, I saw the hose popped off. Now, the problem is the pump can't keep up. I think it lost flow volume. I'm debating on going external.

https://goo.gl/photos/fWyw8vq7heMsqG1C7

It's in Russian. Kinda of neat to see how it was modified over there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOrO4PXbVXk I think I've seen pictures of this MJ here on this site too.

Ive seen strip kits on ebay not sure on accuracy of them, as far as historical.

Humm, thats odd, cause mine dim. I have LED lights everywhere. All the Dash LED's dim. Ill video it this weekend, so you all know I'm not crazy :)

They will dim.

Started life as a 4X2 Manual. Lived in AZ, then had a life on a ranch. Was in El Paso County CO. for a time (based on paper work I found). Then Found its way to El Paso TX. Where I bought it from a young man. He seemed to have big plans for it. He started restoring it, new in side plastics, paint, and other minor items. I used it in my business as a work truck for my guys for a few years. Rear end broke, and decided it was time to make it a 4X4. Before it was changed : Image Not Found 2015 : Image Not Found

I put ALL LED lights in my MJ. I also changed the gauges to white face. Looks AWESOME! One of the best mods I've done... (other then stroker motor, long arm, new seats, new carpet, Tires, Drive shafts, audio system, but after that, the LED dash lights... ) :) Everyone should do LED conversion if you drive at night

First, Nice truck. Looks very well thought out and built. Sand. I love it. You don't need to worry about the filter, unless your hitting "Talcum Powder type sand". That will shut you down quick. I hit that stuff once, stalled the engine. The cone filter "imploded". Nothing got into the engine. That was in my RAM. Try to lighten up the front end. Swap the winch cable for synthetic. I'm in the sand alot, and my build shows it. I relocated some heavy items to the rear, like Battery, Spare Tire, Air Compressor system. You want the front to be as light as you can, so the tires don't plow a small hill of sand. Bring an air compressor. You want your tires at a very low pressure. Example, I'll run 5PSI rear, 8PSI front. Different tires will reflect the PSI you should run. The current tires on my jeep have hard side walls, so need lower PSI to "float" the sand. I usually let air out, then look at the tire. I'm looking for a decent "Bulge". You want to increase the foot print. (bring valve stem removal tool and extra stems, or buy defoliators. Although a stick or rock will work too ) If you do run a low pressure, be aware that it is much easier for a tire to pop of the rim. Try not to turn sharp at speed. Believe it or not, less aggressive tires are better for sand. In fact, normal wide street tires running with a very low PSI will do much better then aggressive tires. The aggressive tire will actually dig down when wheel speed is applied. Obviously, if you got the HP and ability to get excessive wheel speed, then a more aggressive tire may be needed. If you have soft rear springs, or lift blocks you may notice wheel hop. Good solution is new springs and or track arm. However a quick solution is spring clamps on the front of the leaf pack. Clamp them the the over load. Even if you don't have or notice wheel hop, adding the clamps will improve your sand experience. Driving in sand will put more stress on the engine. Watch your temperatures. bring extra water. Here is my 392 HEMI RAM in the sand (It has a 620+HP 426 now) Have fun!

Thanks. When I called General Springs, They told me there are 3 "Factory" type springs plus the metric ton. The 3 factory types are the 3 +1 design. The differences was the free arch. 10" was the most, the other 2 designs had less arch. I'm thinking the original springs I had wore most likely the middle range ones. The truck started out as a 4X2. The new General Springs raised the rear just over ~2", returning the factory "rake" . I did the SOA conversion and the jeep sat level for awhile. Then I added the tire in the bed, moved the battery to the rear, and added a heavy rear bumper. After that, the rear was about 2" lower. I was deciding on a solution, I really did not want to put in new springs. I was concerned about flex, or lack of it. I was tempted to put ~2" lift blocks instead. I called General Springs and they have lots of info. I was going to order 3+1 springs with military wrap, but they wore going to take a month. Ended up ordering the last set of Comanche springs they had. Over all they are good. I'm happy I've made basted packs for other trucks in the past, and that has worked too. I think your idea sounds good. You should call General Springs, They have lots of info on Comanche springs. They can make what you need too.

So, stated driving the jeep a bit more. Started to hear knocking, like rod knock. Sucked, cause its a new stroker with less then ~500mi. Some research showed a common mis diagnosis of rod knock turns out to be cracked flex plate. So, I removed inspection plate on the transmission, and used a "snake camera" attached to my cell to look at the plate. And sure enough, there is a fresh crack. From center going to a hole. And some other spider cracks. This good news, as its not the engine. Bad news, though, cause the damn transmission was just installed 3 weeks ago. I always use failure as an opportunity to upgrade. I can't find any performance flex-plates for the Jeep AW4, like billet. Anyone ever see any performance ones? Image Not Found Image Not Found

I also ordered General springs. I went with the 3+1 setup 10" arch. So its soft, and flexible. I'd say almost as flex as the old springs. Image Not Found I need to adjust the shocks. The shock is limiting the down travel. Image Not Found Image Not Found

new cam replace head with edelbrock alumn performance head up-grade to larger valves Change rockers to lighter weight and or better ratio. replace the exhaust system (header) replace intake manifold with ~2001 or so. larger Throttle body 4 hole fuel injectors ( or high flow if other mods support the flow) modify the CPS to advance timing (or remove adjustment tabs on distributor and rotate that) remove factory belt driven clutch fan, add all electric fans modify intake to bring in cold air (most aftermarket CAI for the jeeps are actually Hot air boxes) I modified factory air box to get cool air from cowl. Change the thermostat to lower ~180. plug in programmer to change fuel changing gears will give your engine greater leverage on the tires, making the engine feel stronger. (it's like using a ratchet with a longer handle) Also using smaller tires will give the feeling of more power. reducing rotational mass helps too.

I know this is little help: I ended up making my own tail light harness using GM weather pack fittings. I wired in a 7 pin trailer connector too. I put fuses and even used relays to power the LED backup lights. Much cleaner and heavy duty setup, over the stock wiring. But just using weather pack connectors, you will find it better. I "think" i have the connector you want. I'll need to dig in the pile of parts I removed. If I have it, I'll send it to you for free. I'll PM you with a picture, if I find it.

Looks real good! here is mine : Image Not Found