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Just replaced shocks on 3 trucks, 2 Jeeps and one RAM HD. Wish I had those tools. Looks like they would be easier and faster. Using the normal had tool solution, takes awhile. I use a ~7mm and 14mm (or 15mm). I use the open end of the 7mm on the shaft and the 14mm on the nut. I mount the wenches in such a way as to use the leverage of the wenches together, like scissors. just to break the bolt lose. Then turn the 14mm, usually there is something in the way, and can only turn it a little bit. Those sockets would make it so much easier. You know, as I was typing this, I just realized a much better solution. And, I already had the dang tool set... I bought a Botch socket set that is hollow in the center. The sockets have a large empty hole in the center, the wrench grabs the sockets on the outer edge. The design allows you to use the socket on a bolt of any length, think of a deep socket with un-limited depth. I got the kit at wall-mart, so I'm sure some of you have seen it there. Anyway, that kit, with a 7mm on the shaft would make removal / install of those shocks really easy. Wish I would have thought of that last weekend...

Good info. I also used all-thread and joints to make a new rod. I had to adapt it to my after market cover, and work with a 6" lift. I was wondering what angle the lever should be when un-loaded. I did suspect level. Thanks

I was wondering the same thing. Why down grade to leaf? I'd be weary about buying someone else s project, unless I knew exactly what I'm looking at.

On the Exhaust, I think a side exit wold look awesome on your truck. Here is mine, Image Not Found Image Not Found Also, I use Photobucket to share pictures.

Awesome, post pictures of the box when its done, maybe I can take some ideas from it. The Type R sub is a great speaker.

Well I hope not. It would be cool to see this running again. But, with any project like this, it takes time n cash. I suppose skills help too :) Although, that front axle has me worried a bit. Kinda scary

looking good man. Did you get a sub-woofer box? I'm still looking for one that will look good, and fit. On the GC, SRT build, what you guys tossing in there? I built a 6.1 based 420ci HEMI awhile ago, for my RAM 4X4. Insane fun :) I'm sure that GC will be a blast too!

A tablet. or old smart phone.

Cup holders in an a MJ? When they built these, the designers specifically designed the cup holders out. Cause real men drive jeeps, and real men don't need no cup holders... :yes: What I/m wondering is, has anyone swapped out the floor shiftier for a newer longer one. the one where you can mount the trans temp gauge in front of the 4x4 lever. I have a bench seat, and like that console, but, I've only ever seen it long. maybe cut it?

I've been putting this truck back together now for sometime. The engine electrical in mostly done and connected. I'm missing an O2 and Crank sensor. The O2, has been relocated and I need to extend the harness, and I had the incorrect crank sensor. I pulled the MJ sending unit from the tank. I put the XJ pump and XJ fuel gauge sending unit on the MJ pump mount. I recently finished the main power on the MJ, Battery and feeds. I turned the key, for testing. I hear the fuel pump for about ~2 sec, but get no fuel pressure. Disconnected the hoses and no fuel flow. I've read in passing, that the ECU will shut the fuel pump off if the crank sensor is disconnected. Is that true? I'll have all the sensors connected this weekend, and try again. Just trying to figure out why I have no fuel pressure.

Normal, to hear a click. I'd be concerned if you hear no click. A relay is like a remote switch. Think of it as a little man in a box, in that box is a big ON/OFF switch. When you switch on a switch( light switch in your cab, for example), that tells the little man in the box to flip his BIG switch "Click". It moves a high load off a switch in the cab, to a safer spot. Also, shortens the path of the high load. DC power does not like long runs. Simple relay has 4 connections. 2 connections are for the coil, and the other 2 connections for the Power/Load. The coil takes very little power to energize. When power is applied to the "coil", it magnetizes and pulls a contact towards it. But before that contact reaches the coil, it tags another contact. Making a connection for the load. Its that action you are hearing. Tech Tip, Most people use a positive based relay system. That is, they connect one side of the coil to ground, and then supply a positive feed to the other side of the coil, via a switch for example. Depending on application, I'll do it reverse. That is, I'll connect the Load (BATT for example) to the load of the relay, and jump a wire from that to one end of the coil. Then connect my device (Light, compressor, example) to the other load end of relay. then I'll use a grounded switch. The switch is grounded when turned on. This makes a simpler wiring, and is safer. cause if the switch fails, or if that wire gets damaged, nothing bad will happen. I'll just be full ground. I use both methods, just depends on application. in any event, ALL WAYS use fuses, or breakers. I want the value of my Comanche to increase, but not at you all's loss of fire... For any circuit thats critical, you may want to use self resetting breakers. Continuous duty solenoid is like a relay, but MUCH more heavy duty. It can switch much larger loads. I'll use this when I'm need to control something that eats a lot of power. I have also used these for equipment that I can't have fail. Like dual electric air compressors, or engine cooling fans. These items, for example, could be ran off a large 50amp Relay. But put them on a 200amp Solenoid, and they won't fail. I only run my engine cooling fans off solenoids. over kill... yea, but thats the good over kill.

Usually you'll notice this problem when cruising. Engine will overheat. It can be hard to trouble shoot, as most will focus on the water-pump, Thermostat, and radiator as the cause of the over-heating. Removal of the thermostat will usually make it worse, causing more confusion in the trouble shooting path. Cause, the person is thinking by removing the thermostat, that the flow will be faster, hence a cooler engine. But that faster flow will enhance the issue of the hose. Same with installing a hi-flow pump. Hose returns to normal, so visually its hard to spot. With truck parked, you can watch the hose as the engine is rivved up. If you see the hose closing, then the problem is there. I just put a new lower hose, and it too was missing the coil. The new hose does not seem hard. I Put a hi-flow thermostat and hi-flow pump. So, I'll be watching that lower hose when I start driving this this jeep, in 2018...

the wire coil, commonly called a "spring" is not a spring at all. Its to keep the bottom hose from collapsing at high engine RPM, from the suction of the pump. Commonly used solution in the past hose designs. Newer model hoses are built different, to handle the suction. IMO, though, if you have the coil, re use it.

Actually I think you right. 1/8th mile is more realistic. I was saying 1/4, cause that's what the tracks are around here. But they do show, 60ft, 300ft, 1/8 and 1/4. (what stroker? the 4.6? Its a Creggs kit, Stage 3 with Keith Black forged pistons and forged crank.The CAM is also Stage3, but they don't show on the web site. head work done locally. they used larger Chevy valves. hi-flow oil pump, kool flow water pump, 2000+ ported intake, large ported TB, larger injectors, I think thats about it.. I'll upgrade the rockers later. I may put a supercharger or Turbo in the future ) Funny posts by some others, :) I've seen some of those videos where they put in AMC or other V8 engines. Very cool. On the T-case potential issues. I have found that the T-case on my race RAM is very stout. 4X4 high launches with 550+ plus HP and another 125 Shot on top. (almost 700HP launches) and the case and chain held up. Also I would run in 4X4 Low in the sand drags (no NOS, all motor), and no major transfer-case issues. Now, the case on this jeep is a 231 Alumn Chain drive. not sure on the planetary gears though. I know they make a HD version of the 231, and I think other trucks come with a 231HD and that can be swapped in, right? Currently I have a rebuilt stock case, but in the near future I'll replace that with something beefier. for off-road, with a lower ratio for example. Well, in a few months when my MJ is driving, I'll hit the track. just to see what it will do. Thanks

I'm thinking of doing the same thing, so I'll follow this thread . mnkyboy, thats some crazy flex! I hope my Comanche can do that. Does the front spring re-seat on its own when it lowers back?

So, I'm building an 87 Comanche. I'm using a 91 HO Cherokee for the engine, transmission, T-case, electrical, dash and so on. Started a awhile back. So, I bought a new CPS sensor. Started installing it. And I'll tell you what, I have quite a few choice words for the guy that decided that location was a good place. I hope he suffers an eternity of having to replace these. On a clean truck, not bad, but on a well driven one... I spent hours trying to get it installed. The dang bolts won't thread in the holes, with sensor. But, sure as hell, I can hand thread with out the sensor. put the sensor back, and put the bolts in, turn for F-N hours, and never grab a thread. Well finally get dat b!tch up, and start to connect it. I can't find the matching connector on the harness! W.T.F!!! I've read there may have been a service bulletin to relocate connector to inside the cab. Take dash apart, and I can't locate a matching connector. I have 3 other XJ / MJ's to compare. 2000 XJ, CPS looks like it connects to harness with the transmission on passenger side. My 91/87 MJ no have that... 1990 MJ, CPS is connected to a GM style connector off the injector harness. My 91/87 MJ no have that same style plug.. Now, there is an un used round 3 pin connector on the injector harness. I always figured it was for a different TB. So, I goto Autozone, and have them show me a CPS from a 91... Damn it!, looks like it uses a round connector. So, I just spent some time in CPS HELL, and installed the wrong damn sensor... Now, I got to remove that sensor, buy correct one, and pray I can install in less then 8hr... before all this started, I went to a u pull it salvage yard, and pulled a CPS. It only took me 10min to remove it. I wanted to bolts, cause I did not know the size needed, I figured if I was going through the pain of installing a CPS, I may as well start with correct bolts. The F N issue is I could not get the bolts to bite as I turned the wrench. I used paper to make sure the bolt was not sliding down into the socket... Anyway, for thats don't know, there are different plugs on the CPS used. now I know. I'm debating on just cutting both ends off and putting on GM style weather pack connectors.

how's it holding up? How is the flex? I just ordered these, can't wait to see it installed

I know most everyone here does not race their Comanche, in fact I'm sure its at the bottom of the list of things you may do with you truck. (Back-ground) I have a 2004 4X4 HEMI I race. When I raced it, it had a 550HP 392. Currently has a 600+ 426HEMI. Mostly 1/4 and sand race (300ft). It's fun to race a big truck/ The look on the "fast" car next you is priceless when they get beat. ~12sec in a 6000# 4 door 4X4. My Comanche has a fully built stroker, with most of the extras. larger CAM, large valve ported head, ported intake, large TB, and so on. I have yet to run it, but my guess is 180HP at the wheels. Does that sound about right? I may supercharge it too. But if it makes ~300HP crank, and weighs in at around 3000#, then its Power to weight is near that of my race RAM. So, I would think it may be close. Other variables too, like gear ratio, transmission ratios, shift points, and so on will affect it. Like on my RAM, I program the computer to shift at 6800 to 6850RPM (engine will hit 7000+ before actual shift). It's my understanding, that on these jeeps you can't dial your shift. The shift is based on line pressure and throttle pressure, right? The jeep was kinda quick when it was a 4X2 5-speed, at least for the first few yards :) . Admittedly, it was scary to drive over 80mph. But I have done a lot to the steering now. I wouldn't expect it to be a top end performer. However, with the low end torque the I6 makes, plus low 4:56 gears and a 4X4 hi launch, I'll bet it will take off like a raped ape. (my 6000# hemi would see sub 2sec 60ft's, 1.80 avg) Truth is, I most likely won't 1/4 mile it, maybe a few times to see what it does, but I did not build it for that. However, I would like to race it in the sand drags. Thats a 300ft straight line through sand. My real plans for jeep are, daily driver, some advanced off-roading, exploring, and general just riding the trails. I'm just wondering if anyone on here has ever ran the 1/4, just for fun, and what kinda times you saw.

1987 Jeep MJ - Body, fuel tank, sender* (modified to work with 91 gauge), seat, 1991 Jeep XJ - 4.0 Engine, AW4, NP231, Front Axle, Rear Axle, Dash, Computer, Harness. Steering column Front axle is NOT CAD. Transfer-case has no vacuum connections. Is the 4X4 light controlled from the shift lever on these, or from the switch on the transfer-case? Thanks

I'm having the same issue. There is a GM weather pack connector on the transfer case. It's a simple switch, inside the case. But I can't find the electrical connection on the harness. No vacuum 4X4 anything on my jeep. It's odd, cause the engine, transmission, and transfer case came out of a 91 Cherokee. I also transplanted the 91 electrical harness. But I still can't find the original connector on the harness. I'm thinking it may have been a pig tale, that connected to another part of the harness... They sell GM type electrical connections at some parts stores. I'll just make a new connector and run to the dash light, If I can't locate the electrical plug.

Red Sands, The Wall, The lake, Red Hills, various trails from El Paso to Cloud Croft. But not all in my little jeep :) , at least not yet. I used to go to the sand drags alot. Not so much right now. I raced the Black Ram 4X4 with a 392HEMI. It has a 426HEMI now :>. As soon as I get this jeep running, I'd like to to a ride with the other locals, at least once. On that note, this jeep feels like a full size 1 to 1 model. I've replaced the exhaust twice, 3 transmission coolers, 2 different intakes, 2 different batteries, 2 or 3 air filters, 2 sets of headlights, 3 sets of tail lights (I keep finding better sets), 2 radios, 2 water pumps, 2 transmission pans, and a bunch of other stuff... Oh, and I have NEVER even driven it yet! The project is time consuming. And each week, I'll see something new and better. I'll buy it, and install it. I'm guessing it will be driving by the end of the year, or so. :)

This is exactly what I wanted to do. I too looked over the net, and found "can" solutions that looked "cheap" or "not the right part". Your idea looks great. I've been looking for a container to use, and I think I'll do what you did. I wanted to mount it in front of the tank, on the skid. I was debating on using the current vacuum hard line that runs to the engine bay. Connecting that to the other end of the container, and connecting to a vacuum port on the intake. Or, just leaving the other end of the canister open.

Were did you buy that? I would like one for my tale-gate. Thanks

Finally done, took awhile. other things came up and what not... anyway,. It came out just like I envisioned. I wanted to tuck the muffler higher, but it should be fine where its at. custom 2.5" down pipe with 2 O2 Sensor ports (factory and wide-band). 2.5" flex pipe to prevent stress on header. 2.5" band clamp to allow easy removal heat shield on exhaust pipe near transmission long straight mid pipe 5ft long. ( I'll add a Cat there) muffler mounted under bed, in front of rear axle. same side IN / OUT. 3 hangers for support. Band clamp to allow removal of muffler. Pipe bent up and around the frame for exit. burnt blue exhaust tips. Tip, mounted angled down a bit Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

kinda related, how does everyone have the filter mounted? On mine, the filter is angled up, so that you can't pre fill it with oil during an oil change. I usually add oil to an oil filter before installing, but on this 4.0, that's not possible, is it?