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MancheKid86

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Everything posted by MancheKid86

  1. MancheKid86
    I agree with cap and rotor checking. your first post sounds like a worn out distributor bushing. pull your cap off distributor grab the rotor and wiggle it. if there is any play this could most definitely be the culprit.
  2. MancheKid86
    thats exactly what i used, they work great.
  3. MancheKid86
    sure was. at this point i am cutting and fitting frame stiffeners, have a booking at the bnb so here is where ive stopped until they leave. i had a bit of repeated arc blow by the leaf perch so i will try to wrap the ground around the frame a few times and reweld it after i grind it out. i will be touching up the plug welds and grind them to make everything flush. still have alot of welding to go
  4. MancheKid86
    trimmed the passenger set of frame stiffeners to fit and started welding them on!
  5. MancheKid86
    your hitting it from the wrong side,its shouldered on the other side of the carrier so its only goes in/out one way that is the side for roll pin installation it has a larger diameter. the other side has a smaller diameter and is meant for removal hope this helps
  6. MancheKid86
    Got the call they had the time to blast the jeep, $340 to do the entire shell looks like its time to put the frame stiffeners on and paint!
  7. MancheKid86
    you can easily bench test your horn, run a + and - from the battery to the horn and that will rule out if the horn functions. a. horn beeps. - run multi meter on power wire and see if you detect a voltage whilst pressing beeper -if power, replace ground. -if no power check all fuses and trace wire back to see if there is any chafing/breaks/corrosion of wire b. horn no beep - replace horn let us know what you find!
  8. MancheKid86
    just re-read this build thread, great to see your mj still kickin'. was also a trip to see some of my reply's from over 10 years ago looks like you are still having fun!
  9. MancheKid86
    seen the rest of your pictures on the facebook CC Great job on the resto
  10. MancheKid86
    ^^^ THIS only ax-15 i have seen fail not from driver/neglect but from to much HP, was a supercharged v8 cherokee at the drag strip (which was wayyy above the HP rating of the transmission) made a big noise while shifting and it locked into 4th gear. when i took it apart the 3/4 gear syncronizer hub was detroyed the other ax-15s have been from people grinding gears and destroying the synchro's deteriorated fluid (contaminated with sludge, which fills the grooves of synchros and causes them to fail) not changing fluid causing bearing failure ive also seen people reseal the input shaft and put way to much rtv on the machined surfaces and block off some oil galleries to in input bearing. the best was the reverse to 5th clutch drop that sheared 5th gear right off. (i had to replace the main shaft and synchros for that guy) any used transmission is a gamble, you don't know how the previous owners have treated it, pull the drain plug and inspect what comes out before you make your purchase (look for bearing material/sychro bits) from my experience running 10w30 (i have been using 10w30 in various ax-15 for 8 years, i use castrol GTX) has been the best fluid to use. it literally cleans all the grooves out the synchros giving it a better friction coefficient to allow for a smoother shift. first oil change after a few 1000K and you won't believe all the sludge that comes out, put castrol GTX in a high milleage (over 400,000km) transmission ran it for 5000 km (it instantly fixed the shifting btw) and drained it, took it apart (converting to external so why not while i had it out) and it was immaculate inside. cleaner than any of the lower milleage running gear oil, it made the synchros look brand new. rant over
  11. MancheKid86
    You may get lucky if you loosen the gas tank straps. thinking the tank has to be dropped though
  12. MancheKid86
    Floor is all welded in. Took a break to go back for some schooling and now time to get back on the build. Will edit this post once I find all the photos and post in coresponding order. Sending out the truck to get media blasted within a weeks time
  13. MancheKid86
    you can tell your an AME just by how meticulously clean your shop is. keep up the great work
  14. MancheKid86
    good to see your still around! looks great!!!
  15. MancheKid86
    i know this topic has been asked a million times, but I am going to ask it again (for the fact it is 2020, and there must be some more options available to what is found in the search) looking for recomendations on a 3 link kit. i have 2.5" lift built into the axle and 7.5" lift coils, on paper 10" but about 8.5 with the coil sag and extra metal on the front. what would the community reccomend? the truck has been running modified short arms robert bryce built in the early 90's and with the 40' tires the unibody is finally to not play anymore (i have a complete frame stiffener kit waiting to go on as well so integretity is not an issue) thanks in advanced
  16. MancheKid86
    looking to see if a member has the factorys dimensional drawings for the engine bay/cab/inner fenders. i have found the lwb frame dimensional drawings but nothing else. almost ready to drag it to my neighbours and hook it up to his frame straightener thanks in advanced
  17. MancheKid86
    starting to get back onto my comanche rebuild. that being said i need to decide what ecu and wide band i will use to tune the 4.7L stroker (Robert Bryce's original homebuilt 4.5L stroker from the 90's) doing some research, i have found the AEM and MS to be the most suitable choice for my application. though, never doing standalone before, i am competent and just need some input on people who have went standalone, for why they have went the route they have chosen. i have access locally to a dyno/tuner so tuning won't be an issue. as title states, this a a renix (93 HO block, with renix sensors) jeep. Thanks
  18. MancheKid86
    I switch between both, buckets for me and a copilot, bench for an extra person wanting to wheel. and when i take one of my dogs out i remove the passenger bucket and fill the passenger side of the cab with blankets so they have some where to lay down (big dogs)
  19. MancheKid86
    oh there defintley will be trouble and "hold my beer" moment in this its inbetween an tj drive shaftshaft an xj driveshaft in length if accuracy counts haha i crawled under the thing in the daylight today and the forsale add wasnt totally true........it does not have a twin stick 205....... it has a northwest fab 203/205 doubler!!!!!!!! slightly dissapointed that it wasnt a split 205, but EXTREMELY excited about the doubler, my buddy decided to gift me the northwest fab tripple shifter toomplete it and make it go front wheel drive or rear wheel drive
  20. MancheKid86
    i have no idea why i bought this, but its sweet, it showed up on my social media for dirt cheap, after my friends were off work we were off to get it, later on that night we showed up and did a quick exchange, it was dark out and hadnt even seen it in the day light. currently its on 35" boggers, the rear are cut and is set up for mud racing slightly modified, has a rollerized small block chevy 350 bored .010 with arp studs. rebuilt turbo 350 with high stall torque converter b&m megashifter, twin stick 205 transfercase, radius arm links front and rear, down travel limited to zero by limit straps, locked dana 44 full width 4.88 gears , over knuckle steering, locked 14 bolt rear 4.88 gears, rear mounted radiator and a roll cage it is FAST, i don't doubt i can get the front tires off the ground my plans are to run it this winter, remove the limit straps, get longer shocks and let the suspenion get a work out. i will be putting 39.5" super swampers on it to do some snow wheeling (yes... a tracker on 39.5" tires may have to move the flares a bit but nothing major) in the summer i will change the shocks back out and reinstall the limit straps and boggers there are a few mud races held around the area here that i would like to attend more pictures to follow
  21. MancheKid86
    Well its been a little while since i made much progress on the truck. i have the passenger repairs almost finished, just need to trim my newly made floor pan a bit more and can start welding it all together. my neighbor is a legend, spent about 6 hours with me forming the passenger pan and rolling it smooth it turned out great! as you can see i messed up and cut it a bit short off the sheet so i had to add some more metal back in but other than that I'm very pleased with the home made floor pan. here are some pictures, will have more soon
  22. MancheKid86
    the rest of my bits showed up for the engine put the new harmonic balancer on and was able to index the distributor started up on the sheet metal again, made my fire wall repair patch, just need to roll/shrink the edge for the pinch seam and start to fit it. gave the top of the unibody a quick grind to remove any galvonizing and sprayed some zinc weld thru primer in prep for the new pans. removed the rock sliders to be replaced and it also made the acess to start the rocker repairs that much easier! it is slightly crusty in there, ill see how much of it is left after a bit of a wire brush XD
  23. MancheKid86
    man this thing is sick, great build!
  24. MancheKid86
    new header showed up, waiting on a few more bits then the engine is finished! i cleaned and spray tested each injector prior to installing them in the manifold here is some more pictures
  25. MancheKid86
    i can only imagine your thoughts when you split the casing, it sure cleaned up nice though! diggin the new drivers side latch you fabbed!
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