MancheKid86

i know! for all the things he has created, i do not know why he still has an under knuckle Y link...

will post some photos of it on my rig when it shows up, i caught the parts right as the were going into powdercoat and went for black. 2 long weeks :(

nice looking MJ, just curious to as why you trimmed your front fenders like that though?

placed my order yesterday, seems like some quality stuff, may be a little over priced but it stands out from all the other brands CAD currency exchange rates were brutal and i paid a bunch extra went with the steering box brace/support with sector shaft support, and track bar, frame brace and track bar bracket. i already had all of this except my steering box brace didnt have box support or sector shaft support. and my track bar was shot and track bar brace cracked in half note, this is not my rig. only photos i have of the setup ATM everything in blue besides pitman arm

:needpics: ..............or read.

you can get the 6 speed standard transmission in the new 2016 3500 cummins crew cabs too! but i do not know many people with new vehicles that can drive stick. Every thing is going automatic, not only vehicles. kinda scares me for the next generation

for your spicer u-joint woes, you could have tossed a different end cap on the spicer and kept it a spicer :thumbsup:

great progress so far! deff going to learn lots this way you do know that your supposed to measure the tare torque without a seal installed right? the seal will add a few pounds extra. but other wise KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK. are you set on 32" tires? with those gears and lift you can run 35's all day long no issue, it will look more proportionate too, just food for thought.

I just looked up the sale ad for that truck and it's a short box, plus it has full fiberglass besides and those aren't made for the longbed MJs unfortunately. :( Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk :wall: no more intoxicated posts for me bahahahaha

It's for an automatic. Inability to start the thing at all, and the backup light issue. that makes sense, the only auto i have ever owned, is still is not finished, collecting dust at my shop 5 hours away. thanks for a legitimate answer

I call BS. I have the complete steering from a V8 ZJ on my truck right now. Works great and is larger than stock. It makes sense if you want beefier TRE's. Yes, but at that point you probably want to go to a different drag link and probably a WJ knuckle. Suddenly its not so simple. THIS is what i was talking about, not the tierod assy.

just out of curiosity, why such a desire for the NSS? only benefit i see is the inability to start with the clutch pedal depressed. or is there something more to it?

update, licensed M2 Aircraft Maintenance Engineer, working on obtaining an M1 license now to grandfather in structural repair and avionics licenses as well

it doesnt specify that its number one, just that it was top 5

THIS you can say all you want that it works fine, but if your geometry isnt parallel, then it isnt set up properly you won't notice offroad (unless going highspeeds) onroad, if it isnt parallel, then it will induce bump steer ALSO, v8 ZJ tierod assembly is a GREAT upgrade, but, v8 ZJ drag link will not work, JSYK

Drove it

it definitely is

finally have some pictures! not many but thats okay. TRUCK LIVES, made it out of the shop i had it stuffed away in. still need to do more, trim fenders, install flair's some wiring, alignment, welding ect. but its out of the shop!!!!! she is back on 40's doorless mod, i did mine with quick pins, i do not like how most people cut the lower tang off, i think that's hokey, with a little more effort you can utilize the entire bracket like it was designed for, it does take a min to align the holes and drop the pins through, but hey, it works upgraded locking hubs ( i took auto locking hubs, and cut the auto locking clutch off to make locking hubs) warn premium locking hubs are crap, ive broken too many of them, yes i know this is due to it being an external hub setup, this is my fix new upgraded ups on top, crappy old hubs underneath both transfercases torn apart, and gone through, i like to do this once a year. new tires i pretty much stole for the price i paid for them the best i could do to shim my new power door, top corner dips in more than i like, but i havent found a way to fix that yet more to come, soon ill have some wheeling photos!

looks good, IIRC, you posted a thread a few years ago? i definitely remember that pic of the tj in the drainage, no mistaking it

it makes sense for a 180 degree split on ring gap 100% in doing so, it reduces the probability of all the ring gaps lining up in the same area, reducing the loss of compression any other degree's will bring the probability factor up. why chance it?

as long as you don't drive like an asshat, you don't need a sway bar. yes some people like it, for obvious on road handling reason's, just don't pretend your driving some ricer i bet you flex alot better now. none of my jeeps have one, even fully loaded. for your fender, i would suggest pulling that flare off of it, and taking it to a paintless dent repair shop (yes that is a thing) it has probably been creased or stretched at the fender and will require hammer and dolly work. it would be a shame for a nice truck such as this to get dinged up trying to fix it, also, why didnt you claim a hit and run and let insurance deal with it?

i picked up a 2wd mj with a ba10-5. the reverse gear blew with only 115 xxx KM on it. you can find donors for super cheap, and make ALL your money back on parting it out, while still having all the parts needed. depending on year of ax-15 the input shaft diameter will be different. pb-74 is the correct bushing needed for the swap dependent on the year (bushings i hydro out, bearings i chisel out from the crank) my entire 4wd conversion cost $240 COMPLETE so its not expensive at all, as long as you can wheel and deal and not get taken advantage of. torx e12 socket is needed for the top two bolts on the bell housing. if you use a newer trans, you need to swap the CPS sensor, renix and HO are not compatible 87MJTIM says to get a clutch that matches the trans, the only difference between the ba10-5 clutch and ax15 is the throwout bearing depending on year you select. earlier years have internal, later years have external that's where the difference in clutch kit comes in. if you choose external, select a newer cherokee as your vehicle at the parts store. your internal can fail, IF you do not properly lubricate it, and the shaft that is on. there are three things that happen. the internal release bearing isnt properly lubricated on install (or due to being in for so long) that it doesn't allow the throw out bearing to properly extend, causing it to rupture. OR the roll pin works its way out of the clutch line internally. OR you cheap out and get a lower quality reman. the internal i have in my Mild build jeep has 340 000 KM on it, ZERO issues having taken all the provisions necessary, do the 10w30 motor oil conversion while doing the swap. it is a jeep certified thing. i run 10w30 in both of my standard jeeps, and its cheaper. helps the shifts be nicer any questions, i myself have done this swap more than once, and others like me have. all the info is here. good luck with your swap!

hey all, was wondering who's running 40's besides Johnny Quest, Mini Beast and myself? we can't be the only ones on this site that is doing it. now, the catch, if you are id like pics of wheel wells front and rear for reference. thanks! Devon

that would make sense if he had the issue before rad swap. if your water pump was failing. revving it to 3500 rpm and allowing more coolant to flow would drop the temps back down. sounds like you have a faulty new rad like hornbrod said. doesnt hurt to replace the water pump, but if the problem persist's then it is the new rad.

that'll teach ya for listening to drake!!! :rotf: :rotfl2: :laughin: glad you got it fixed. coulda been worse, sucks that it happened. time to put some driving lamps on the front aimed in the ditches! saved me a few times