MancheKid86

finally bit the bullet and ordered the 4 link from Andy at ironman4x4fab!

rebuilt a few bell 214's with these fine spring punches you can get -3 -4 -5 and up for all your rivet needs

Part 2 of update all the to do's Started chasing bondo and pulling dents. the A pillar was too far gone, I ended up replacing it with another one, even brazed the joints just like factory the roof had a forearm sized dent from a cherry tree I am happy with how much of it i was able to pull back out finally drilled those drains back open Then I sent her off to get mediablasted and paint. stripped the axles and suspenion off at their yard to get painted as well. can't wait to get it back to start assembly Edit: Thanks Pete

Been a while since an update has happened. recently I have been inspired to "finish" the truck last of the frame stiffeners installed removed majority of the seam sealer in problem areas I ended up finding a MINT (for this area) lwb box so i promptly sold my other one off broke out the laser line and marked my lines and got straight to cutting

dropped it off for mediablast and paint!

actually worked on it for once! send it back for mediablast and paint this week

11 years later! how time flys, good to see your still at it!

stock rad, mech fan, aux fan, water wetter Flow Kooler Water Pump aftermarket tsat this combo stopped my overheating, pushing my truck on 40's in 104+ degree weather like it was winter time

I agree with cap and rotor checking. your first post sounds like a worn out distributor bushing. pull your cap off distributor grab the rotor and wiggle it. if there is any play this could most definitely be the culprit.

thats exactly what i used, they work great.

sure was. at this point i am cutting and fitting frame stiffeners, have a booking at the bnb so here is where ive stopped until they leave. i had a bit of repeated arc blow by the leaf perch so i will try to wrap the ground around the frame a few times and reweld it after i grind it out. i will be touching up the plug welds and grind them to make everything flush. still have alot of welding to go

trimmed the passenger set of frame stiffeners to fit and started welding them on!

your hitting it from the wrong side,its shouldered on the other side of the carrier so its only goes in/out one way that is the side for roll pin installation it has a larger diameter. the other side has a smaller diameter and is meant for removal hope this helps

Got the call they had the time to blast the jeep, $340 to do the entire shell looks like its time to put the frame stiffeners on and paint!

you can easily bench test your horn, run a + and - from the battery to the horn and that will rule out if the horn functions. a. horn beeps. - run multi meter on power wire and see if you detect a voltage whilst pressing beeper -if power, replace ground. -if no power check all fuses and trace wire back to see if there is any chafing/breaks/corrosion of wire b. horn no beep - replace horn let us know what you find!

just re-read this build thread, great to see your mj still kickin'. was also a trip to see some of my reply's from over 10 years ago looks like you are still having fun!

seen the rest of your pictures on the facebook CC Great job on the resto

^^^ THIS only ax-15 i have seen fail not from driver/neglect but from to much HP, was a supercharged v8 cherokee at the drag strip (which was wayyy above the HP rating of the transmission) made a big noise while shifting and it locked into 4th gear. when i took it apart the 3/4 gear syncronizer hub was detroyed the other ax-15s have been from people grinding gears and destroying the synchro's deteriorated fluid (contaminated with sludge, which fills the grooves of synchros and causes them to fail) not changing fluid causing bearing failure ive also seen people reseal the input shaft and put way to much rtv on the machined surfaces and block off some oil galleries to in input bearing. the best was the reverse to 5th clutch drop that sheared 5th gear right off. (i had to replace the main shaft and synchros for that guy) any used transmission is a gamble, you don't know how the previous owners have treated it, pull the drain plug and inspect what comes out before you make your purchase (look for bearing material/sychro bits) from my experience running 10w30 (i have been using 10w30 in various ax-15 for 8 years, i use castrol GTX) has been the best fluid to use. it literally cleans all the grooves out the synchros giving it a better friction coefficient to allow for a smoother shift. first oil change after a few 1000K and you won't believe all the sludge that comes out, put castrol GTX in a high milleage (over 400,000km) transmission ran it for 5000 km (it instantly fixed the shifting btw) and drained it, took it apart (converting to external so why not while i had it out) and it was immaculate inside. cleaner than any of the lower milleage running gear oil, it made the synchros look brand new. rant over

You may get lucky if you loosen the gas tank straps. thinking the tank has to be dropped though

Floor is all welded in. Took a break to go back for some schooling and now time to get back on the build. Will edit this post once I find all the photos and post in coresponding order. Sending out the truck to get media blasted within a weeks time

you can tell your an AME just by how meticulously clean your shop is. keep up the great work

good to see your still around! looks great!!!

i know this topic has been asked a million times, but I am going to ask it again (for the fact it is 2020, and there must be some more options available to what is found in the search) looking for recomendations on a 3 link kit. i have 2.5" lift built into the axle and 7.5" lift coils, on paper 10" but about 8.5 with the coil sag and extra metal on the front. what would the community reccomend? the truck has been running modified short arms robert bryce built in the early 90's and with the 40' tires the unibody is finally to not play anymore (i have a complete frame stiffener kit waiting to go on as well so integretity is not an issue) thanks in advanced

looking to see if a member has the factorys dimensional drawings for the engine bay/cab/inner fenders. i have found the lwb frame dimensional drawings but nothing else. almost ready to drag it to my neighbours and hook it up to his frame straightener thanks in advanced

starting to get back onto my comanche rebuild. that being said i need to decide what ecu and wide band i will use to tune the 4.7L stroker (Robert Bryce's original homebuilt 4.5L stroker from the 90's) doing some research, i have found the AEM and MS to be the most suitable choice for my application. though, never doing standalone before, i am competent and just need some input on people who have went standalone, for why they have went the route they have chosen. i have access locally to a dyno/tuner so tuning won't be an issue. as title states, this a a renix (93 HO block, with renix sensors) jeep. Thanks