Pete M

um, you can't have both a slip yoke eliminator and a slip yoke. I assume you have a slip yoke? pictures?

and I, for one, can't thank you enough :bowdown: Brett! at least once a week someone asks me about shirts.

you can't add a CV shaft without a SYE. they go hand in hand. :thumbsup:

surprisingly few people seem to have done that. or at least very few who are here. this is a random MJ I found on the net. clearly not what you're thinking of.

yup. but an SYE is out a bit more than it really should and still a great (albeit expensive cine you're on the hook for the kit plus a new driveshaft) upgrade. going SOA pulls the driveshaft out about an inch and in some cases this can cause problems in certain circumstances (especially if there is a lot of wear and slop at the yoke). since yours is a street queen, you should be fine. :thumbsup: in either case, a slightly longer driveshaft should return everything to normal. One caveat, U-joints don't like crazy changes in their operating angles. you can get vibrations from that alone.

18 gal is the shortbed tank. engine size is irrelevant. :thumbsup:

in its heyday, my 88 had 5 1/4s components in the doors, tweeters above them, 6x9s in little boxes in the back, and an 8 inch woofer in a small box. all were high quality speakers fed from amps. I eventually did away with the 6x9s, as they added very little to the music. that let me run the fronts and woofer off of a single amp. for whatever reason, that little truck put out some of the best quality sound (loud or soft) I'd ever heard in a vehicle. :dunno: I everything over to my dakota and the sound just wasn't the same. :( weird. Go Comanches!

Merry Christmas!!

I altered your title to help advertise the need. :thumbsup: If it's reasonable rust free, then it's likely worth the money. but it all depends on how much of a project you're looking for. wiring issues aren't fun.

yup, its been done. :D but with some metal fabbin' effort for sure. now if i could just find that stupid photo.... :hmm:

autozone will check your starter motor for free. :thumbsup: do keep an eye on where the shims went for re-installation.

yup, if you guys want to bring air tools, a CO2 tank is the way to go. :thumbsup: also, black and decker makes a cordless sawzall. I think it's in their 18 volt series.

the proper length control arms should put the tire back in the center of the wheelwell automatically. :thumbsup: unless you get adjustable, which require some measuring.

I'm just glad you asked. :D much better than buying a pair and finding out the hard way. :yes:

what brand/voltage is your cordless drill?

oh there are plenty of differences. a cherokee donor would be preferable depending on how much you need from the donor. does the MJ have the complete wire harness?

says the man that lives outside the rustbelt... :yes:

how much of the engine do you intend to use? what's wrong with the current engine?

cordless sawzalls aren't that much money. and the best blades I've ever used are the gold-toothed Lenox brand I find at Lowes. well worth the investment. :thumbsup:

cordless sawzalls are miracle workers. :D

if it's not the ballast resistor itself, it sounds like that circuit might have a break in it.

what axles/gears are you using?

you'll never get 5" out of an AAL. so your choices are SOA or full replacement leaf pack. :thumbsup: what size tires are you looking to run?

neat! :cheers:

very nice Brent! :yes: