Pete M

They will have the same backspacing. :thumbsup:

guilty! put it on upside down one day and decided I liked it. Until I put it on right-side up another day and decided I liked it. LAZINESS FTW! :rotf:

still rockin' the homer-simpson-blue doorpanels. that's about all that's left though. :dunno:

steel rusts. fact o' life. the key is to buy your ride from a state where it happens the slowest and then take steps to delay for as long as possible the inevitable return to mother earth. :thumbsup:

I imagine S-10 or Dakota springs would do the same thing and I'd bet they'd be easier to find. :thumbsup:

epic. just epic. :drool:

could have just been a fluke I guess. I assume all the trailer lights worked properly?

get yourself a spark checker. little thing that plugs in between the plug and plug wire and lights up when the spark goes through. :thumbsup:

haha! I typed that part out years ago. :D And if you can get a matching Dana 60 to go with that 10.25, I'd do it in heartbeat. the earlier 60s are slightly better than their later counterparts too. :thumbsup: but I doubt a 4.0 powered MJ will eat either rear axle anytime soon.

for tires that extreme I would go with late model Ford Dana 60/10.5 combo from under a super duty. They aren't that rare and can be had with factory 4.10 or 4.30 gearing. search car-part.com for various years of super dutys and excursions. It might cost 1500-2000 for the axles, but you can get away with not regearing (saving 600-1200 bucks). an earlier super duty Dana 50/10.5 combo is also pretty good.

fantastic! :clapping:

the bigger u-joints didn't become standard until 94-ish.

a pair of quality hub-centric wheel spacers will cure that. :thumbsup: and as a bonus they will push the tires out to better match the look of the front. :yes:

I'm guessing bleeder screws for a dana 44's brakes.

there's no need to copy the factory routing. I ran a new line straight back along the bottom edge of the frame rather than tuck it way up there to rot again. :thumbsup:

what gear ratios are in them?

holy crap am am I blind. :doh: I even looked up "sheet metal and didn't see "sheet metal" right there where it clearly says "sheet metal". :rotf: at $40 a side, it doesn't really offer much profit. :dunno: guess it'll be a charity purchase like usual. :yes:

what did you find that under?

car-part.com might be able to help with expected costs. :thumbsup:

anyone know what the Pull-A-Part brand yards charge for random bits of sheetmetal? specifically, I'm thinking of cutting out some MJ rockers to take back north. I don't see that choice in their parts pricing. :shake:

is a better gear ratio part of the plans?

in theory you should be able to buy a whole XJ for less than that. Either way I would keep looking for a later model with the 231 and AX-5. :thumbsup: (2.5L + AX-4 usually equals 3.55 gears so triple check before buying) and speaking of ratios, what ratio is that in your rear axle now?

it'll happen with our software upgrades, which are on delay til I'm back in michigan. :thumbsup:

2.5L + 4speed manual = 3.55 2.5L + 5speed manual = 4.10 but the only way to know for sure is to check. either pop the cover or jack up one rear tire, put the trans in neutral and rotate that tire around twice while counting the driveshaft revolutions. (if for some reason the rear axle has a posi, then rotate only once) just over 4 times = 4.10s three and a half = 3.55

I've only seen 2 so far in the pull-your-part type of junkyards. both were burned to a crisp and stripped of drivetrain. all I need is those silly 05+ sunviser clips, dang it! :fs1: