Pete M

from what I remember from years ago, he makes them up in small batches along with other springs. takes a ton of money to fire up the furnaces. :yes:

if the goal is to get him to keep making them, you should probably also send an email. :thumbsup:

there's enough supplies in the house to last a couple weeks and enough ammo to make my house an undesirable target. by that time I figure the big panic will have subsided and I can either simply drive away to an unaffected area or raid my neighbors' houses for food.

phone call. find out for sure what's going on.

lack of fuel or lack of spark. check to see that it's actually sparking during cranking.

I have very few action shots of my truck, but plenty of action shots of those who wheeled with me. part of being the passionate photographer in the bunch I guess. :dunno:

sounds like fun. :D take pics!

Just for clarification, it's not just the track bar. plenty of people have had bad track bars and never had the Death. but a bad trackbar can be the proverbial straw that, if fixed, might push the sloppiness factor back under the DW thresh hold and make the it go away.

done :D

off the top of my head I would add to those lists: -a small hack saw, -small pipe wrench, -custom bent 3/4' conduit cheater bar that fits over my ratchets and smaller wrenches, -decent painter's 5-in-1 (works as a mild chisel and a flat pry bar for interior panels and what-not). and in the van I carry just about every tool I could possibly need. :D I like to be prepared. :yes: including: -32mm and 36mm wheel bearing sockets -the rest of my wrenches and sockets -BFH -sawzall and drill with all the batteries

my 88 had a stiff pedal with the engine off, but then the pedal would plunge to the floor if I turned the engine on. it turned out to be a bad booster. I know you've replaced it, but it's always possible that replacement parts go bad. :(

there are a couple theories to mudding and it depends on whether or not there is a hard bottom to the muck. skinny tires to find the bottom, or wide tires to "float" over the mud. far as I can tell, dually front tires are mostly about; "LOOK AT ME!!!"

35s on no lift means you'll be dragging your belly across everything. We've got waaaay more wheelbase than an XJ or wrangler.

tried car-part.com yet?

not sure what the official suggestion is, but I treat them like wheel lugs and check the torque after a few trips around the block, then again after a couple weeks.

steep compared to what? I hope you're not comparing them to other rigs that benefit from their ginormous production runs. You've got a niche truck there. the rig-specific parts will be more unfortunately. :(

FOUND IT! :banana: you should now be able to search back member content further than 1 year. :D the menu system here is better than phpbb, but apparently that doesn't mean I can actually find things any better. :shake:

nice paint job. :yes:

what part of the breaker bars broke?

mine is no longer in the stock location. I moved it up to where I can easily work on it. :thumbsup:

np-231

unit bearings. that's why not.

note that I screwed up which was which and had to splice in a tiny line to fix it. :doh:

:roll: if you click on "show-all", you'll find it. for some reason, certain screens don't quite show all the smiles in the long bar. :dunno:

the labeled one is the rear output. the one below it is the emergency rear output that bypasses the rear prop valve should the front brakes fail.