Pete M

you definitely need to start a couple "other project" threads.

finally got enough wifi to watch this and it gives me chills how much control he has over that truck.

that is one sexy truck, Bo.

li'l known fact, back in the day I used to fix said expensive lasers and robotics. waaaaayyyyyy back when. (like 98)

you just need 10 posts in order to access the classifieds.

no spacer needed if you get rims with less backspacing. the front is more of a concern than the rear since the Waggy front 44 is the same width as the Isuzu.

car-part.com can help with junkyard searches. be sure to search for various years of XJ since the part numbers changed but the trans will still work. 95+ will be external slave. there are at least 3 pull-a-part yards near atlanta, but it's hit or miss on what they contain. the website will at least tell you what years of Jeep are there and what isle they are in. pullapart.com you'll need a matching t-case too (spline count changes) as well as the crossmember, motor mount, and I think maybe the t-case linkage. and as always, check craigslist for complete XJs.

out of curiosity, can your machine cut stainless and aluminum?

um, "late model"? I swapped it in like 20 years ago so I'm not certain. I have a feeling it's anything after the closed system was retired.

not that I've experienced. it's the same radiator, but with a little tube sticking out and a rad cap on it. In theory you should probably include an overflow bottle should the cap pop. I just routed a hose down to the bottom of the engine bay. conveniently circled in this old pic.

If I remember right, it's just a Dana 44. I don't think there's anything special about it like the 44a.

just an fyi, you can swap in a later style radiator (with rad cap) and retain the closed system. I've had it for years.

jeepers helping jeepers is what it's all about.

are you familiar with the dakota bench seat swap? also, early years of MJ benches don't have headrests. later years did.

nice

added to the list.

should be easy enough to locate if you listen underneath while someone else turns the wheel. track bar is very common, but also control arm bushings and, well, pretty much anything underneath.

edited because I hit send before finishing my thoughts.

the 242 is a great t-case. theoretically it's just a bit weaker than a 231 but give you the option of all-wheel-drive for street use. what all are you looking to do to it? short arms will work fine for a 4" lift. almost any XJ long arm lift will work on an MJ with a bit of work (mostly hacking off the lower control arm mounts).

I can't see the new pics. is it my internet connection? edit: it was in fact my connection. all is well now!

kill switch on the fuel pump resistor line and maybe an alarm that has the siren inside the cab.

yup, the addiction is real.

just a couple points: -spray foam should never touch a vehicle. it seems to absorb moisture and make things worse. -water gets everywhere. every hollow spot should be considered a drain area. heck, my windshield was leaking in the 86 and dribbling down inside the A-pillar. took forever to figure out how water was pooling up on the floor.

do not assume that the rust you see from a photo is the whole extent. a semi-common problem with rust-belt trucks is rotting of the frame itself from the inside-out. (especially right in front of the rear tires/springs). if it's solid, then you're good. but if you can stab a screwdriver through any part of the frame, then it might be too much project for you.

this topic is going around in circles so I'm locking it until someone can get a pic of the axle, or build sheet, or something.