Pete M

definitely need more pics is the engine in the final position? what are you doing for a hood?

If you ever get a chance, take your truck to a car show. That'll give you an idea of how awesome it is. some members have won awards when they were just there to see the other cars.

yup. got a brand new bit of bling in the engine bay well, the Jeep got me to GA. only a couple times did I have to kick on the hazards when merging back onto the freeway.

always, always seatbelts.

the late 90s/early 2000s Dakota split bench seems to be a popular swap. not a direct bolt-in, but one of our members was working on an adapter bracket to make it bolt-in.

don't think of it as a Jeep, or a truck. try to think of it as you now own a classic car. for perspective, I bought my first MJ in 1997. a 28 year old car at that time would be the 69 Camaro. the build I would do with it (note the focus on replacing the ancient rubber bits): 31s TJ Canyon rims (8" wide and has stock backspacing) 2" budget boost lift (pucks up front, chevy drop shackles out back) WJ control arms (they have a bend for tire clearance plus you can buy them new to get rid of your 30 year old bushings) YJ front brake lines (they are longer than MJ lines and yours are now 30 years old and should likely be replaced) all sorts of fullsize trucks have a longer rear line to do the same and then I'd leave it alone and focus on the other 28 year old items that likely should be replaced so the truck is reliable. (cooling parts, rubber seals, grounds, battery cables, etc) see the link in my sig for all sorts of how-tos. also this link:

4.10 8.8s are pretty common. 4.10 libertys are rarer and limited to the early years. car-part.com can help with junkyard searches.

KJ. I haven't left yet. new drive day is friday. the rusty fuel return line is fixed. the leaky trans line is fixed. but the code and limp mode keeps coming back. I'm done messing with it until I get to GA. I drove up here in limp mode so I'm confident I can get back. especially since I can kill the code as often as I want. the one bit of new info is that the code reader has a few live stream info feeds and one shows that I'm at almost 10% throttle while at idle. not sure what that means.

what year wrangler?

I grounded my system to a seat floor bolt.

if you're talking about the control arms, now is a good time to contemplate WJ arms.

my only experience with poly is the C-bushings on my ford 44 and they were sooooo stiff

hold yur horses! I don't know the fix yet, but there is some evidence that shows it might not be on your end, but rather our 1's and 0's having some confusion about sending out the alert emails... stay tuned...

science is fun can't wait for the results!

in this day and age someone should be able to 3d that little guy.

putting together an official CC website has been in the works for awhile, but always seems to be on the back burner. stupid life. keeps getting it the way.

looks like you've found a good solution

mmmm..... haven't been there in a while.

I just have the trifecta of headaches. It's rusty, a diesel, and it's a rarity. I have plans to rewire the ABS to get my cruise back, but not 'til I return to georgia I've got a backlog of things to accomplish while I'm up here and the pump and my back have caused all sorts of delays. on the positive side, I went for another test drive and all went well. but I can't allow myself to get excited since it's done that before. so I'm going to ignore that for now and focus on the leaky trans line before it blows up from rust.

found an old post on lostjeeps that says P1186 is "a plausibility fault on the airbox pressure sensor". I checked the sensor but my wire is firmly clipped on (the thread mentions that they like to fall off)

not yet. wanted to try this first. plus I'm wondering if the 3/8" rubber line I have will clinch down hard enough to seal. it's a bit smaller than the bigger line that is clearly 3/8". I think I might go for a longer test drive over to autozone and see what they have.

woo hoo! congrats!

the new pump is in and works. brand new fuel filter too. the idle has improved, the revving sounds good... but it won't rev past 3000. but it's smooth as silk at that rpm. sigh. I guess this should at least get me back to georgia. current codes of note: U0002 CAN C Bus off performance (in the ABS codes) P1186 Fuel pressure monitoring minimum pressure at engine speed too low. I've tried deleting them but they come back. tried disconnecting the battery too. persistent little bugger. I wonder how common are fuel pressure regulator failures are. or maybe the pressure sensor?

congratulations, dad!

I'm running out of ideas. make extra sure it's not on your end (check the spam folder, make sure your email address is correct, things like that)