Pete M

I mention it because you'll need to redo some of your handiwork to install the other options (the fittings changed over time). if you do it all at once, you only need to run lines once.

yes. you can also go with an aftermarket inline prop valve for the rear so you can dial it in juuuuust right. also, also, also, now is the time to contemplate a rear disk brakes swap. super easy using ZJ parts just imagine how awesome things will be will a whole new updated brake system

the first time I redid brake lines I used the pre-made straight pieces from the auto parts stores. I used a little bending tool and it was pretty simple. the second time I bought a whole roll and a bag of ends and a flaring tool. it was more complicated for sure (and I highly suggest practicing your flares before you start on the truck), but I did it and if I did another I'd go with a roll. a quality flaring tool makes all the difference. also, you shouldn't feel like you need to perfectly replicate the factory bends and routing, but do make sure nothing is going to catch or pinch the lines. also, also, now's the time to contemplate the dual booster swap with a normal prop valve up front and to delete the rear height sensing valve. more info on those in the link in my signature.

how many packs can I make from 3 peppers? that's right, there are 3 peppers on my plants. gardens in georgia are... challenging.

might take me a bit of time to mount it. turns out a straight-up 2x4 isn't going to work as well as I thought.

nice! saved for later use.

old trucks are fun and needy. do try to upload your pics to the CC site rather than tapatalk. I'd hate for TT to randomly change their rules and we might lose the pics.

that would be insanely tricky to print clear red plus the reflective bits required by law. but an adapter to run dakota or other taillights might work.

I like that thread better! DIY is updated to reflect new thread.

seems like now's a great time to check the axles and trans too.

there is a special brake bleeding procedure for MJs. has to do with the emergency line running to the back height sensing prop valve. the steps are in the link in my signature. if your truck is rusty and still sporting the original steel lines, now's the time to replace them all, especially the 2 lines that run along the gas tank where rot is most common. also in that link are Cruiser's MJ tips. do all that apply.

great shape + low miles + low price + wide advertisement = scam

she's seen a lot of good owners. did you pass on the CC website?

be sure to shake it as hard as you can. any play will become huge once it's spinning at 5 million rpm.

you're not the first, you won't be the last.

pure guessing on the year so I'll move it once we determine the birthday.

I'm assuming this is an early 87 since it is a shortbed with the 86 emblems.

'tis the shiny-est thing under your Jeep I wish every axle came with a drain plug.

there's always my way to get bluetooth into an old Jeep. got myself a modded-up Minuit special. I want to say it's a 92 XJ unit.

I have an 06 (with the Liberty moniker of course)

honestly a matchbox size would be sweet too.

the solution to your problems has been in my signature for a couple years now