Pete M

oh, and don't feel pressured to match the factory routing. run it in a safe location and be done with it for now. you can always revisit it later.

if it helps at all, they are the same as the bucket floor brackets. check the classifieds/vendors section for Krustyballer's post to see if he still have some that he makes.

I speak from complete ignorance about the state of TJ electrical systems, but there's no way I wouldn't just swap it all. why risk it?

do any of the threads in the link in my sig say?

yup, that block comes with the replacement hose. lots of trucks use a similar thing though if you can't find an MJ. they are usually used because they are longer to accommodate a lift.

I'd get rid of the prop altogether and run new line all the way from the front with either a T up front or a plug for the emergency line. the link in my signature has some alternatives for deleting the rear prop valve. you can either do it with bulk line and a flaring tool (although the cheap flare tools suuuuuck), or you can buy lengths of pre-flared line and just connect them all together (make extra sure that all the ends are correct and matching). I've done it both ways. by "three way fitting", are you referring to the axle side with the integrated vent line? or the upper where it merges with the propped line and the emergency line?

finally wired in my 2nd power outlet. now I have one that is switched power, and one that is constant power.

are the pre-C-clip years different than the C-clip years?

nice! that countertop is gorgeous!

are those apple files? I cannot see them.

absolutely. although I need a couple weeks before I can get my hands on more 10" decals.

are you also buying a track bar that has a drop bracket? you can't do one without the other or else the alignment between the 2 bars will be off and give you bump steer. looking strictly at the steering, a drop pitman is not necessary with your lift.

I've discovered that if I flip around the metal bits in the knee brace, it does a much better job of keeping my leg straight. I'm sure this is much harder on the nylon pockets they fit into, but whatever. it's a 20 dollar brace. I'll get another if I kill it before I'm done with it.

update: same ol', same ol'. I seem to hit a plateau with self-recovery. If I'm standing, no pain. if I'm lying flat on my back with my leg straight, no pain. but every other position causes either instant stabbing pain or eventually the achiness creeps in. doesn't bode well for 12 hours of driving but whatever. at this point I don't feel that I'm a danger to my fellow motorists, It just means I'm going to be taking lots of breaks. aiming for next weekend for the drive north.

pegging down the last inch of ride height won't really affect shock length out back. do be sure that you're adding longer bumpstops (or metal extensions) to the list.

wait until the front has settled. then adjust as needed. once you've got some miles under your belt, you'll be able to make a more informed decision about whether an extra leaf or a longer shackle would work best for your rig and your needs.

awww. does that make the window more valuable?

I don't remember any complaints about those other than cost.

that's an easy fix. buy a second one. there are plenty of rusty MJs in your area that could be armored up with no conflict of the conscience.

go on! knock, knock! make history happen!

care to cite precedent? I've not heard of any issues, but I've not read everything on the internet yet. (although this knee problem is certainly giving me more to to try and catch up )

typical rubi rims on an MJ using 1.5" spacers

that second part is a good idea to look into. but a spacer doesn't put any more stress on anything than a similarly backspaced aftermarket rim. tires sticking out increase the stress. JK/JL/JT rims have a ton of backspacing so the spacer makes the whole combo more or less match a pair of typical aftermarket rims. but it's just an option. the used market is constantly in flux so I wanted to make sure you had alternatives. the choice is still yours. be sure to know how to read tire dates. you don't want old tires if you're hitting 55mph+.

spacers are super common in the Jeep world these days (mostly to run the glut of JK/JL/JT rims) and I'm not hearing about a ton of issues.

while it's true they aren't as cheap as the 5x4.5 to 5x5 adapters, it's not an insane price for them. this is for 2: https://www.ebay.com/itm/202489273244?hash=item2f254d1b9c:g:NQMAAOSwq9Rb24b8 but it all depends on what you can find local to you. the JK/JL/JT stuff should be all over the place. but gotta find the right size for the right price.