SBpunk

Just realized I haven't updated this thing since the motor rebuild. Got the motor 'rebuilt' awhile back. Had heating issues since the second I pulled it out but was assured that was normal for break in. Had to pull over a few times on the 1.5 hr trip home to avoid over heating. Replaced everything you possibly could with no luck. Finally had the exhaust tested for a leak at the manifold and was told the head gasket had a major gap in it. Called the repair shop and my calls were never returned or just ignored. Bright side is all new cooling system so won't have to worry about that for awhile. Found a guy to do the head gasket for me (will explain) for 300 bucks if I provide the parts. Cheapest I could find and he specilizes in 4.2, 4.0's and 2.5 out of AMC/Jeep. Fast forward a few weeks. I had an allergic reaction to the metal plate in my shoulder which cause all sorts of internal issues. While having it removed the second surgeon fount that my rotator cuff, which my first one said was fine, was completely destroyed. That sitting there for over a year plus the reaction to the metal completely destroy my right shoulder. Was told that it'll never get much better than 20 to 40% range of motion and closing my hand to hold a water bottle would be at the top of the expectations. Fun times right? Lets go ahead another 2 months.... Was at physical therapy and the lady noticed discoloration on my surgery site. Made an appointment and found out that my rotator cuff and part of the bone had gotten infected under the skin (site was completely closed). Sliced open again, part of my collar bone was removed along with a chunk of joint. This was about 4 months ago. Since then I've been able to drive around the manual a little but going to convert to an AW4 this summer. Wife has stopped trying to get me to sell the Comanche off since I refuse to get rid of something that was almost successful at doing what a large portion of a couple countries weren't able to. Still here though. Anyway I'll keep adding to the build (won't keep on with my medical crap) as I go. Fuel pump should be here soon and after the holidays getting that head gasket fixed. Merry Christmas!

Had some motivation and a death wish today (apparently I don't learn even from major injuries). Just have to torque them down and grease. Needed to get measurements so I can order front springs next month and ditch the spacers.

Any pictures of the LWB sliders mounted? Been awhile since I looked but one of the companies had a nice little uneven gap toward the front fenders.

This is what I did.

Just wanted to stop in and say whats up! Been laying low trying to recover from a couple surgeries due to the Comanche coming down on me. Apparently I was allergic to the titanium plate they had in my should which cause all sorts of issues. Anyway. Finally got my hands on a HO fuel pump (thanks again @Hornbrod) so I figured I start knocking out some stuff. HP30 regeared to 410 has been sitting for almost a year on my engine stand. Need to finish up the shafts and order brakes then it'll be ready for install. I have some adjustable shackles from IronMan4x4fab I've been hesitant to install but can't stay out from under the Jeep forever. Ordering a new head and having it installed in January. Have been having issues with over heating since the 'rebuild'. Come to find out the head was installed improperly. Bright side she has all new cooling. Once that's done I have to chase down this rough idle. I'm starting to think I need a new wiring harness or to chase down some corrosion. Electric fan works on the switch but not with a/c or temp. There's some other minor electrical gremlins too. Enough to where I think something is broken in the harness. Lastly I'm going to start gathering parts to convert from an AX15 to an AW4. I'm having an easier time shifting now but it's still more painful than I'd like. Docs are saying with all the damage, allergic reaction, infection (that was fun) and everything else it'll hurt the rest of my life. Figure an auto is an easy way to fix it without having to sell her off. Hopefully you guys will see me posting stupid questions and progression pictures soon. Take care and Merry Christmas!

Still looking. Tried a couple other things (auto zone pump, XJ pump and renix pump) but nothing worked. Even tried to swap internals but no dice.

I don't think stroking a 2.5 would do much good. You would get more bang for the buck with a supercharger. Check out mnkyboy's build thread if you haven't already. He's done some nice work with his. http://comancheclub.com/topic/16226-mnkyboys-89-comanche-project/page-28 I checked out his thread and that supercharger set up is crazy haha. I would first have to swap my tbi to mpi before I can think about supercharging my motor. That's why I was thinking of stroking it, I know its beating a dead horse :yes: now my I'm considering boost lol I was planning on going with 5.13 gears with a 5sp and 35s. I was going to go 4.88s but I was afraid they would not be enough 5.13 you'll need a new front axle since D30 only allows up to 4.88. Even with 4.88 you're running a very small pinion. On 35s an 8.8 or 9 inch would probably be a safer bet. As for the front you'll have to ask around.

That's what I needed to hear I appreciate it

Little backstory here. Took it in less than 10k miles ago to get the motor rebuilt. Shop is now closed because, I'm assuming, of things like this. It wouldve been over heating constantly if I didn't stop driving it and kept it to short trips since the day I pulled it out of the shop. Shop owner kept telling me it was the gauges/sensor etc. After replacing the entire cooling system with upgrades (CSF 3 core, ZJ fan clutch, XJ electric fan, water wetter, 70/30 coolant) I had it to where it'll sit just below 210 going to work and back which is only 7 miles. Got the A/C converted to 134a and noticed it was getting a little warmer. Temps outside hit in the low 90's the other day and when I stopped at a light coming home from work it started to creep up near 220 by the time I got home. Had it brought into a local Firestone to have the exhaust checked for leaks and they did a block test. Firestone told me that smoke was pouring out the gasket at a pretty steady rate and it would need to be replaced which was something they couldnt do there. No biggie I don't have the money to have a shop do it anyway. My question is with the gasket needing to be replaced is it still driveable as long as I don't let it over heat? There isn't any noticeable coolant in the oil and the coolant itself looks hazy. Not 100% its even oil in the coolant. The reason I'm asking is that I'll be going back into surgery (number 3 yay....) and was wondering what damage could be done if I keep driving it on short trips where the temps won't reach over 210ish? Thanks everyone.

Honestly if you pull the springs out and take them to a machine shop with new bushings they'll do it for cheap. We had an auto hobby shop on base that I did a set in and I'll tell you this.... paying someone else to do it is worth every penny.

WJ XJ ZJ seats can be modified to fold forward also. 3 bolts per side and the bracket from a 2 door seat. I found a set on ebay for 30 bucks and threw them into a pair of leather WJ seats. Comfortable but putting the bench back in so the dogs have a place to sit/lay down.

Bump still looking

Yeah I didn't think it was the highest quality but if it bolts in and works for 5 months out of the year I'll be happy.

Here's the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/162554897726

So I'm breaking down and converting my system finally. Ebay special has the compressor, valve, drier, oil and condenser for under 200 bucks. Probably not the greatest set up but all my funds have been going into my coolant system repairs. Any special tools needed to remove any of the lines? Seems like just a couple wrenches should take care of it but figured I'd ask since its summertime and some of you have probably messed with them recently. My condenser is pretty rough looking. Lines seem to be holding out but don't look great. Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be an off the shelf replacement for one of the lines (can't remember which)

Huh? A closed system cap and open system cap can't really be mistaken. A closed system has a thick plastic cap, from a Jeep or a Volvo "pressure tank", they look nothing alike, and one won't fit the other. You need a regular 16# cap. Not a super cheap cap either. Stant was a good brand but have heard different lately, so maybe a dealer cap. There is a poppet valve on some thermostats, never heard of one on a cap. And get a solid cap, not one with a pressure lever. Tried two of the caps from the dealership. Both were leaking pretty good. The pressure release cap I had from AutoZone hasn't had an issue so far. I'm planning on ditching the CSF radiator and going back to a new mopar stock radiator since it worked great before they were swapped. I've read up on Naxja and a few other forums and noticed a trend with people in my situation. I'm also going to get a new overflow bottle and A/C system. My R12 is leaking anyway and only working when theres some higher RPMs. 134a it is

Nice! I have to go back and see what track bar I ordered. Been sitting on the shelf for almost a year.

Of course I can't load it on this computer lol. That the rear manta bumper?

Sweet good to hear. Going to flush it again next weekend just to clear it out. The radiator cap popped off (pressure release one) and lower water pump hose started seeping out. I've got to get a new overflow bottle. Thing is pretty gross. Still not helping my overheat but I'm starting to think theres some other stuff internal wrong. Rebuilder might have screwed up somewhere.

Ok ran air through the line toward the overflow bottle. Nasty stuff came out. Had this probably not so brilliant idea to do it toward the radiator. Found a loose hose clamp (leaked) but now my coolant looks like the pic below. How possible is it the air pressure popped the head gasket? I haven't ran it much yet. About 10 miles and waiting on it to cool down a bit to check. Oil still looked fine but figured I'd ask the experts.

Not sure to be honest. I'm guessing there's one at the bottom of the bottle? If there is any good tricks for unclogging it?

Been through a few radiator caps. Was the first thing I tried and like the 5th and the 100th lol. Just put another on yesterday.

Is it possible for an overflow coolant bottle to cause a cooling system to get hot/boarder line overheat? I've been hunting down this cooling thing and noticed the level in the bottle never changes. Also when I first start it they coolant comes up through the fill tube (with the cap off) and even when I increase the RPM the coolant level in the neck doesn't go down. This is the first time working the coolant system in a long time and I thought once you start increasing RPMs its supposed to suck the coolant into the radiator. Possible the water pump is going the wrong way? Like I said might be a dumb question.

Exhaust leak caused the exact same damage on my 1992 XJ. The rear wheel well and floor pan was toast. LOL must of been one hell of an exhaust leak. Yeah was split across the length of the top on the tail pipe. I bought it for 500 bucks and drove it onto a hauler. Couldn't complain too much.

Exhaust leak caused the exact same damage on my 1992 XJ. The rear wheel well and floor pan was toast.