SBpunk

Small cab with a blower/heater built for an XJ = massive heat when its working properly. Like everyone said flush the heater core, put in new coolant and make sure its not leaking at the little plastic piece before it goes into the firewall. I ended up bypassing it and my heat gets insanely hot even during the winter.

I'm just here for the tacos

Hows that bumper going? Waiting to get my truck back to get under it and see how I'd go about mounting a winch back there

Any pictures of the mounting? Would love to see them. I just used flat stock and the seats flex a bit. Don't have any yet but when I get the truck back and start welding everything up i'll grab some pics. I'm only 5'6 and 200lbs so the flat pieces didn't hold my weight well. That's why I switched to square tube. I'll get you some pics though

He's not kidding. AX15 with 31's was horrible on stock 3.07 gears. Went to 3.55s w/ a half burnt out motor was sooooooo much better. Can't wait to get these 4.10s in and my rebuilt motor back :D

You can always leave the SOA perches incase you decide to do it later. They're cheap enough

You ever start making these I'm going to have to sell off that hitch you just made me and get one. Then I'll have to find a new spot for my spare....

31's will fit without any lift and look good. Only problem is you're going to have to start worrying about gears. Specially in a manual. I swapped in some 3.55 axles (have a rear 8.8 with 410 gears going in soon) and it feels better than the 3.07s did. Technically with two inches of lift you can probably fit up to 33's with some trimming. If not then stick with 31x10.5r15 or 31x12r15 with a little bit of a spacer in the rear. Here's mine with 2-3 inches of lift with 31x10.5r15

I used XJ inner brackets and MJ bench outer brackets since I couldn't find MJ bucket brackets. Used 1 inch square tube steel to extend the back out to mount the seat. Used more tube steel on the inside of the WJ seat so it wouldn't raise up the seat any taller than it had to be. Still making final adjustments before welding everything down but I have plenty of room as it sits for the seat belts, interior pieces, center console and sliding. I'm going to use a piece of 550 cord and tie it to the forward folding mechanism then to the headrest. This will give me the ability to tilt my seats forward without having to smash my hand between the seat and the interior trim.

Got pics of this?

Maybe something like these that can be welded in some how. Not sure though. Looks pretty dangerous to me but meeh to each his own. http://liquidironindustries.com/Liquid-Iron-Industries-Universal-Slider-Box-Kit.html

XJ shackles and 2wd leaf spring packs will bring you down. I've heard XJ shackles have some binding issues though but no experience with them.

Sounds like your starter is going south on you. Battery is struggling to get it to do a good rotation so its cranking over multiple times. My 89 Wagoneer was doing it too. Ate through two batteries before I figured it out. Thought it was fuel/choke/carb issues for the longest time.

Hahaha Yeah something like that. Figured with the interior going the way its going doing a brown or OD green wrap would look pretty decent as long as its thin enough. I'd had to have to cut 100 ft of cord in half....

I'm going to clean up mine as much as possible then wrap it in gutted 550 cord (paracord). Looked into hydro dipping but its stupid expensive

Has anyone done it? I have a black wheel I'd like to pretty up before installing in the Comanche? Eastwood has a kit but mostly looking for feedback and any tricks you guys used. Thanks

I never do but I change mine every 4 to 5k miles so doesn't have a chance to get too bad. Use a bottle of MMO every change also with a high compactly filter.

WJ steering pump, S10 stearing gear, WJ brake booster, steering cooler if the WJ has it, door surrounds (piece that goes on the body not the door) weather stripping from a ZJ, 97+ mirrors

Go with factory replacements if you can find them. I used brown dog awhile back and they were insanely stiff. I could feel every vibration in my jeep. Swapped to MOPAR and everything went back to normal. Driver side is easy if I remember correctly. Passenger side... not so much. Still on a scale from 1 to 10 its only about a 4. Just make sure you use locktite on the bolts.

:hmm: You don't put in new oil after you drain out the old? :banana: Dammit I knew there was a reason I was going through engines every couple miles hahahahaha

Just google "Cherokee adjustable control arms" and you'll get a ton of results Current flavor of the week is Core4x4 stage two There's also ironman4x4 fabrication, metalcloak, Iron rock off road, rusty's (wouldn't suggest it) and rough country to name a few. All will give the same benefits as WJ arms just adjustable. If you're tight on fund go with new WJ arms. I'm running them on 3.5 inch lift now to clear my 31x10.5s on stock wheels. They're not hard to install but does take a bit of grinding and some words not suitable for small children.

Lift front tires, drain oil, pour a bottle of sea foam while the drain plug is still open, seal it up and call it a day

Havent been able to do much with work going nuts. Been planning on taking the Comanche down to have her motor rebuilt but still hasn't happened. Hour and a half drive to the machine shop. Did get the turbines put on and knocked out the head liner / backboard.

Stock brake lines and Lokar EC-81FC Clevis Kit for Ford Explorer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CORQ2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_AfFOuD75zrIHY

Nice! It just bolted straight up no mods? Sweet thanks! If this 200amp one doesn't pan out I'll be ordering this guy hahaha. Sucks about the idle control. Maybe I'll mess with the cable for the throttle. They have something similar in military hummers.