SBpunk

Just got in. They look good. Wasn't expecting them to have the bushings and center pin already. Least now I have extras.

They're just easier to pull back and tuck away when hauling stuff. Instead of removing an entire hard top you just unclip a few things and it folds back like a TJ/JK

They don't make them anymore from the barely knows anything customer service person I was talking to. Guess long beds aren't produced much anymore mid size trucks

It's a pain. I couldn't ever get it to bleed right.

The closest thing I could find when I was looking was one for a Toyota but it wasn't long enough. Bestop doesn't produce anything with the width and length needed for our tops. Not sure about other companies.

Think he means something like this https://www.amazon.com/Bestop%C2%AE-76309-35-Diamond-Supertop%C2%AE-2004-2016/dp/B000VLF9LI

So read some bad info and hadn't got around to plunging the rear line yet. The line your going to use to go to the soft lines needs to have a new fitting. You have a couple options here. You can either get a 7/16 to 3/8 adapter but this adds another failure / leak point Purchase a new double flared 3/8 brake line fitting, cut the line, add new fitting, reflare it Lastly what I plan on doing is use the old fitting (mine was still in good shape) and use it on the correct line Here is the fitting I'll be re using. It was the one that originally went into the soft line from the "T" removed during the previous steps. You'll cut the end of this line, the one you'll be running into the soft line, and adding the 3/8 brake line fitting. Flare the end using a double flare and tighten it down.

That's what I planned on doing hahaha it's a double flare. I had read somewhere that it was the same size fitting but bad info I suppose.

There's enough line down there to cut, reflair and put a new end in too. Just got to figure out what type of flair. Project for today after work.

I've never read anything about that in the forums. Still new to it just going off the info I've pieced together from the folks here. I'll look more into it and see what I can find

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Will do! Should have it finished by tomorrow. Have everything written down so far. Bolt sizes and what not

Got it in. Just need to tighten it up tomorrow. Pulled the brake line (what I could some was stuck behind the gas tank) and going to bend the remaining line into the soft brake line. Pretty stoked about this. Only thing that can go wrong now is if that end going into the height valve doesn't fit the soft line.

Got an update today. Hoping they're here by the weekend. Only a couple hours north but who knows with UPS. Might take them all the way to TX first then back up hahaha Don't see what you're looking for? Orders placed in the past 1 monthOrders placed in the past 3 monthsOrders placed in the past 6 monthsOrders placed in the past 12 monthsOrders placed in 2016 My Orders Order date: 07/02/2016 Order#: 50788 Shipping to: Larry Harris Items Ordered: Price: Status: 2 of : 1986 - 1992 Jeep Comanche rear leaf spring, 5(3/2) leaf, 1700 lbs capacity $439.98 Shipped

If you're looking for some aftermarket calipers/pads check out Black Magic brakes. Its the step between stock and vanco's $1.3k brakes.....

5'6 here so I could probably put in barstools and be alright. This is what I ended up with. Giant pain so I'm sure the XJ seats wouldn't be too difficult. Once I get the interior in and everything adjusted I'll start welding up the brackets.

Not sure but either way it's bad business. Going to call Wednesday if my order status hasn't updated to ask. If they still don't have them in I'll get a refund and put the money toward something else and just find used metric tons.

Yeah buddy that's what I'm hoping for. Even with my 96 XJ brake booster my brakes have been meeh. I'm hoping I got this right. Then I'm going to use the motive products power bleeder to get everything perfect.

I have drums in the back still. They're not to bad for me since I've them them a million times. I'll swap to disks on the 8.25 eventually but there's less than 1k miles on them now.

Bolt size is 1/2 x 20 to plug the distribution block / proportion valve whichever you like to call it. Shorten the bolt, rubber o ring and rtv the tip of the bolt to seal the hole inside. Let it cure for a day or so. Fill with dot 4, bleed and enjoy.

So I'm paranoid specially when it comes to brakes. Just want to get the finally clarification. Remove and plug this port (bottom forward port) Then remove this line coming from the distribution block to the back of the height sensing valve (this is the fuzzy part) Then re bend the line you just removed from the valve to fit into the soft line/flex hose? Making the three way T lines just extra metal to be removed later. Or am I backwards?

There have been a few popping up with 4.7 strokers built up to pretty good dailies lately. Think everyone covered everything else.

Agreed! Was almost ready to drop the money on it after seeing your guys but 600 bucks with no winch plate is just too steep for me. Glad you got a great deal on it though. Will have to keep my eye out

Incorrect. However, it doesn't matter. Newton posted that he is using an XJ proportioning valve. I think what's more important is Hornbrod's question as to what (if anything) was done to/with the rear height-sensing valve. Damn I'll look into it more. Was hoping it'd be that easy hahahaha

Nvm just blocked off... wouldnt make sense putting it into the soft line